Try using the normal wash program (130F). Some glass is more likely to haze when subjected repeatedly to very high temperatures. Unless you have a member of the household suffering from a cold or other illness, it shouldn't be necessary to regularly use the saniwash program.

We've experienced that as well. Mostly on one set of cheapo wine glasses, although there are one or two drinking glasses with a little haze in some spots.

I checked our water hardness again, recently, at the sink next to it, and it still indicates a need for the internal softener (we only need to replace the salt every 6-7 months, so the DW doesn't appear to be oversoftening the water). I checked the water temp as well (we have a hot water hook-up), and the hot water temp at the sink is below the 130° that it would be heated to by the DW, so too high a temp isn't the culprit either supposedly.

We had been using the Miele tabs, full ones, and then switched to 1/2 tabs a few months ago, after the etching occurred. The Miele tech told us to stop using the Miele tabs entirely, that they are very caustic (!). I find this hard to believe--the DW manuf putting out a product that is made to be used with their machines, but it's too caustic to use "safely" in their machines? Doesn't make sense to me.

Anyway, I decided to do my own experiment, using 1/2 tabs, to see if that makes a difference (of course, now the scoring seems less effective in allowing easy breakage of the tabs! LOL). I alternate with Cascade Complete powder depending on my mood basically. We have a new set of the same cheapo glasses, so we'll see how they fare. They're easily replaced if the 1/2 tabs cause the hazing to appear (although no less annoying to have it happen). FWIW, I still think the full tabs do the best job cleaning. The 1/2 tabs and the powder sometimes leave little bits of food on the odd utensil or bowl, whereas the full tabs do so even less often, if ever.....

I am considering purchasing some of the wineglasses I've been seeing in some of the catalogs recently (Wine Enthusiast, Pottery Barn)--guaranteed against breakage (we're terrible with that!), great in the DW/cloudiness-resistant, etc. I'd like to get a better handle on the impact of the detergent before making that kind of investment though (they're not overly expensive, nor are they lead crystal, but they are higher-end than the Chinatown/restaurant supply set that we currently have). Maybe the cheap glasses can only go through the DW so many times before they start to etch, while the others are made using glass that can do so for many more times?

It's the glass. We have some inexpensive glassware from Ikea that continues to etch, while other glassware does not, and they are washed all together at the same time. We use mainly Electrosol tabs with the red ball, and use sani rinse all the time.

We bought a supply of Spiegelau wine glasses because our expensive Riedels were breaking so easily in use or by being hand washed. They go in our Miele Excella just fine.

The Spiegelaus are over a year old now, always washed in our Miele, & still look new. We generally wash them using the China/Glass or Economy cycle, which have Miele "GlassCare" & lower temperature water. We've also used SensorWash. We keep glasses & stemware out of the heavy duty cycles. We use about 1 tablespoon Cascade Complete, JetDry, and Somat salt.

a long time ago someone referenced a good technical article on what causes this. It has to do with the caustic dish soap and the crystal/glassware causing microcracks in the surface that expand over time.

There are two phenomena that occur: filming and etching. The filming looks like a faint rainbow-like streak. The etching is cloudiness and cannot be removed (I tried).

The combination of heat, detergent and soft water is the cause and sometimes what has been in the glasses can help it along -- I tended to drink milk with coffee in certain glasses that seemed to etch worse than others.

The etching stopped in my dw when I went to 1/2 of a Miele tab although I have seen filming once or twice.

I have cold water hook up and, as it was explained to me, the final rinse is done at a hotter temp and then the cold water is needed to lower that and produce the evaporation.

Perhaps one of the techs can verify that -- it's my recollection and won't swear by it.

So if there's a hot water hook up -- which I did have initially and changed out -- it may not be cooling sufficiently -- hence the etching.

My machine is an Incognito (older Excella) so perhaps there is a difference but I still maintain that there are fewer potential issues with cold water hook up, maybe not such soft water, and very little detergent.

I never use a full Miele tab unless I have a complete pots and pans load and everything gets very clean. But I do partial loads every night so things don't get very dried on.

Thanks guys

I have a Miele tech coming tomorrow and will ask all these questions.

The hazing is like a cloud within the glass and can't be rubbed off and funnily enough it's only on the rims and about 1" down. First few times I saw it I thought is was "lip residue" but nope - cloudiness. And the glasses weren't cheap. In the meantime I bought some glass etching cream and am having fun putting designs on my glasses.

Be sure to post back with the tech's answers :-)

Also, tell me more about this glass etching cream......