Thanks for your input everyone. Sorry for the delayed response. The house is a two story 3200 sq ft (plus another 800 finished in basement) Tudor style home built in 1980. We have made an offer and as part of the inspection process we are bringing in a geothermal HVAC person as well as someone to do an energy audit early next week. The way the contract is written, we can break it next week, but I am really hoping that these professionals can help us come up with a viable plan so we can move forward. (Unfortunately - or fortunately depending upon how you look at it - Marcellus Shale is nearby but not in this part of the County!)

We don't mess with used tanks of any kind. Roth Safety Tanks must be installed by a qualified installer for warranty purposes, and reinstallation at a different location voids the warranty of most tanks. "Only technicians who have successfully completed an installation training course given by Roth representatives are permitted to install these tanks using the installation tools and guidelines described in this manual. Roth will maintain records of individuals who have successfully completed this training. Proper installation of each tank shall be acknowledged when one copy of the Warranty Certificate is completed and signed by the installing technician. Reinstallation of the tank at a new location will void the warranty." "I had my boiler replaced about 17 months ago, so if I get a new tank, then I should be good to go for a while!" I'm in my 30s and figure I'll be retired before many tanks, boilers and furnaces I've installed will need replacement unless they're neglected.

Here's the extent of my knowledge. It's not much but may get you started. Be sure to get a home inspection before you sign a contract! Summer/Winter Hook-Up Systems Summer/winter hook-up systems use a gas or oil fired boiler to heat hot water for radiator or baseboard heating. They also provide the hot water for your house and eliminate the need for a water heater tank. Since this type of system is in use year round, even when there is no need for heat, it is called a summer/winter hookup. The hot water supplied by the boiler for personal use is the same temperature as the water used to provide heat. Therefore, the output temperature of hot water at sinks, faucets, and bathtubs in the house can exceed 150 degrees. This is a very dangerous temperature that can result in instant scalding and burning of exposed skin. To prevent accidental scalds, a tempering or mixing valve should be attached to the main hot water supply line. The tempering valve mixes cooler water with the hot water from the boiler to reduce the temperature of personal use hot water to a safe level. Summer/winter hook-up systems also have a temperature & pressure relief valve. Its purpose is to discharge water from the boiler if the internal water temperature of the boiler exceeds 210 degrees F or 30 PSI. If water temperatures or pressures were allowed to exceed these points, the boiler could become damaged or worse, the boiler could explode. The TPR valve should have a directional pipe installed that points towards the floor and ends about six inches above the floor. This helps prevent anybody standing nearby from getting burned with scalding water if the TPR valve were to open. This exhaust pipe should never be capped or plugged shut. /tricia

Mike I was not expecting to get temperatures like this until late may when I would be more equipped to deal with it. If I don't allow this heat the soil will cool down possibly bellow 55 F. Next tear I plan to put up an insulated wall on the east and west wall to block some light in the dead of winter. This will decrease heat loss and temperature rises. I would remove the insulated wall to expose the glass wall at the end of February. I also plan to put a fan to blow warm greenhouse air down into the ground to utilize the heat in a heat bank and keep the air from stimulating growth. Steve