Thank you both so much. I figured had they not produced, they would have come around for Summer time bloom! They did come out of the ground with my not having to pull at them, so I was relieved.

"Did I ruin my seedlings?" Probably not, in fact I think you did the right thing. I don't believe in those peat pellet things. I think the netting inhibits root growth and plant development. And, I think your instincts were correct, get 'em outta there. They're probably in a little transplant shock right now, but I'm thinking they'll recover and take off. I've included a link below from another thread on this website where I posted links to pictures of my plants developing. Look for my posts (wvtomatoman) and follow the links. Notice how they doubled in size in a week. Of course I'm experienced and all, but this is the type of development you're looking for, not for them to get stuck at a size and just stay like that. Good luck. Randy Here is a link that might be useful: How big should my seedlings be?

I doubt poison was transferred from dying bugs into your pole beans. Everything I have read says to wait at least 3 days after using Sevin before harvesting. Wash the produce well. In fact, you could add a few drops of very mild detergent to the water, then rinse the produce a second time to remove any soap residue. There is a natural insecticide: neem oil. It is extracted from the seeds and fruit of the neem tree. As a pesticide it repels a wide variety of adult bugs from crops and kills larval stage bugs. It is not toxic to mammals, birds, earthworms, or beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies as long as it is not applied to the flowers they visit. It's a good idea to wash your produce whether or not you use any pesticide.

This thread is actually really old but I felt I should mention something different bc I did not see this as a possible solution for those who are trying to remedy the problem of sheen damage to their cabinet doors. Rubbing a dull sheen when cleaning can buff up the sheen making that area noticeably stand out with high sheen spot. Just as a door with a higher sheen can be rubbed with a more abrasive material or chemical this can have a lowering of the sheen effect. In either case a good approach to this would be first to ensure to prep the surface before applying any type of sheen corrector on it . !st Best way is to first use a damp cloth mild soap and water (Dawn is a safe brand to use) to remove sugary film or grease residue on surface. 2nd Once clean and dry you will want to lightly sand with a super fine grit 2000 sand paper the area so that the sheens both shiny and dull are fading into each other. This will make it easier to coceal when you touch up the area. 3rd Identify what kind of material is used on cabinets. It is important because if the product your cabinets are not catalyzed what ever you use can have an adverse reaction to ti. For instance am uncatalyzed poly or an oil enamel finish will not be able to be touched up with a clear lacquer spray , reaction could make the finish crinckle and lift. To ensure this does not occur it is best to test out a small area . Preferrably the back of a drawer front for a reaction prior to using a clear lacquer spray can. 4th Choose to spray the back of a door to get the hang of sheen blending by first lightly sanding with 2000 and then lightly spraying that area . Choose the appropriate sheen level by Using a easy to spray touch up spray can like deft or valspar Clear Lacquer Matt, Satin , Semigloss or gloss, spray a light coat starting from one end of the AFFECTED AREA TO THE OTHER. These spray coating are very light and thin making it easy to blend into finish. If you are not satisfied with the first pass . You may need to hit this area again , keep in mind of blending your mist coat so that it basically disappears into the original sheen. Practicing on the back of a door is important to do so you can have the confidence and experience to hit the faces of the doors to be corrected.