Mike, I will keep the Yushania Anceps and see how it does. I decided to trade the Chusquea Gigantea (for a Bambusa Multiplex "Alphonse Karr" as the Multiplex types seem to do very well here). Hopefully the Yushania Anceps I have can eventually gain more resistance to heat like yours did. The Yushania Anceps came from Washington state which would seem to support your theory well. A big more background and prospective future information: I originally planted the Yushania Anceps in early May of this year. I had first planted it in direct sunlight however about two weeks later I noticed that it was starting to display some minor signs of leaf curl. I decided to dig it up and move it to a more shaded spot (its present site) since the temperatures would get much warmer during the summer than in May. It would be very useful if the Anceps can adapt to the heat in time since I find many of its characteristics very interesting/effective (the expansion method and the cold tolerance in particular the only problem is the present lack of heat tolerance). The site it is planted in will gradually become more shaded (I have a young Bambusa Tuldoides "Clone X" which is said to reach 65-75 feet fairly nearby). I plan to remove the umbrella soon (once the highs drop a slightly more). Farslayr, do not worry about posting your questions here. I hope that your Yushania becomes more acclimated and well adjusted. If your Pitt White keeps shooting that may facilitate any remaining adjustments.

Well my goodness: I didn't know there were two 'Russelliana's. Looking at the photos on HMF I find myself wondering though whether they aren't confused in commerce, because the two varieties sure do look alike in many of their photos. I need to go and study the foliage on mine. I seem to be in the business, on this thread, of shooting down hypotheses. Here's another shot: the true Centifolias, all their various sports and forms, are prickly lanky plants and most definitely not thornless, as I know to my cost from working with them. By the way, in asking about the habit I had the parent plant in mind. I confess I haven't read this thread as carefully as I would need to to make thoroughly responsible contributions, but purplish old roses in my mental files fall into two main categories: the shrubs with some near or remote Gallica blood, generally shrubby; and the rambling purple Multifloras. In the first case smooth canes would lead me toward hybrid Gallicas and Hybrid Perpetuals, as others have suggested; the latter, well, I just said. I would read up on foliage. There may be any number of holes in this reasoning. P.S. I went to look at that purplish Centifolia through the link. I don't know it, and if it's a hybrid it could differ from the basic Centifolia style. I believe, though, that 'Pompon de Bourgogne' is a true Centifolia, that is, prickly.

I'm sure there are decent-tasting oxhearts that would work for shipping. Heat-tolerant tomatoes don't necessarily produce a lot of tomatoes in the heat—they just can produce any at all. Most of the heat-tolerant tomatoes I've tried will produce a few fruits when the weather is between 90° F. And 116° F. in my area (with cooler nights than average and semi-arid air), but there are only a few I've found that are prolific in the heat. Sweet Orange Cherry, Galapagos Island (my version of it), Early Girl F1, Chocolate Pear, Husky Cherry Red F1, Pink Berkeley Tie Dye, and Matina are some of those that have produced the most in the heat for me. Historically, though, stuff that does well in Texas doesn't seem to do that well here and vice versa. You might try Pruden's Purple and Creole in Texas and see how they do. They're not small. Creole could ship well (not PP, though). Sweet Ozark Orange is a good one that might actually do decently in Texas (I think I've read a favorable review from a Texan), and it does well here. It's very firm if you don't let it ripen too much (but it can get pretty soft if you do). It's too late for me to be able to say how heat-tolerant it is, but one of its parents is supposed to be heat-tolerant.

Re-check what Frank Gatto, the owner of rose-nursery advised for his high-rain acidic PNW location, and HE LIMED ONLY IN MARCH, and no more afterwards !! I checked on liming and lime DOES BURN in hot weather, and cause wilting & scorching of leaves from its extreme alkalinity (pH over 10). Roses Unlimited formula for planting hole is a bit complicated, so I post a simple formula below (I also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal for growth-hormone). Frank Gatto's roses are grafted on Dr.Huey (prefers alkaline), so he's heavy on liming! I would use less lime (1/2 cup) for large & years-old established rose in high-rain climate. Farmers routinely use lime with nitrogen in spring time since lime boosts nitrogen uptake. https://goodlifenw.blogspot.com/2012/07/seven-essentials-to-growing-healthy.html "SOIL — For planting, Gatto mixes 50 percent native soil and 50 percent organic compost or potting soil and adds a cup each of bone meal and Garden Lime per bush. He also gives established plants a cup of lime in March, for optimal soil pH." I translate this to 1/2 potting soil and 1/2 my clay (on top), also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal plus 1 cup Plant-Tone (has bone meal), and 1/4 cup lime to neutralize the acidity of 2 cups of alfalfa meal (or 2 TBS of lime to neutralize the acidity of 1 cup of alfalfa meal). For LARGE established rose (grafted on Dr.Huey), Dr.Huey rootstock prefers alkaline pH, versus own-root prefer neutral pH, versus multiflora-rootstock prefers slightly acidic: "Gatto advises giving roses small but frequent meals, as opposed to large amounts of fertilizer less often. He uses a balanced granular fertilizer with an N-P-K number no higher than 20 (such as 15-15-15), along with a blend of organic meals including alfalfa, cotton seed, fish, blood and kelp. "I give each one a handful (about a half a cup) every three weeks." Water thoroughly after feeding." So he uses 1/2 cup of chemical fertilizer 10-10-10, plus 1/2 cup of organics like Espoma Tone per LARGE bush (3' x 2') every 3 weeks for grafted-on-Dr.Huey (heavy feeder). Big-fat-foot-long-Dr.Huey-rootstock needs heavy fertilizer, but for tiny own-roots, I skip chemical fertilizer altogether and use only 1/4 cup organics every 2 weeks. Since pots leach out nitrogen more, I use 1 TBS. Osmocote per month, plus 1/4 cup organics (Lilly Miller) every 2 weeks per pot. There is 6% sulfur per 1/4 cup of Osmocote PLUS NPK 15-9-12 (applied every 6 months per 2 gallon pot or 4 square feet, per label instruction). Sulfur is for growth & dark-green leaves, but Osmocote PLUS DOES NOT HAVE calcium. Since we have heavy rain in spring, plus heavy rain in fall. I limit liming to early spring, or late fall with cool weather. Lime does burn, so best in cold & week-long rain. Below is the Squire (older Austin rose), which has bush beauty (nice color), plus heat & drought tolerance (very thorny). Blooms have zillion petals, so the repeat is slow. The Squire with dark-green leaves prefer alkaline so does well with liming. I also give it potassium to prevent blackspot after blooming. Potassium should be twice more than calcium per rose-tissue-analysis: