This is such an old thread, I hope someone interested in herons still will see it. We’re in Texas, a few miles from a marsh preserve. First time in 15 years, a juvenile Yellow Crowned Night heron visited our pool/spa last week. She was here for a few days. She flew in again today. She likes to sit in the spa - it’s quite amusing. She sits with water up to her shoulders and dunks her head. The water is probably over 95 degrees, as today’s temp is 100, with feels like temp of 108. My worry is that she may not be eating enough to nourish her. We of course have no fish or crustaceans for her. We do have small lizards, some toads, frogs, and field rats. The rats run the fences, sometimes climb adjacent tree, forage flower beds and gardens. Every night I see what I tell myself is the same rat, ‘running the fences’. For many years there was a very large field one street over; now it is just large. Is anyone aware of herons feeding on rats? I wouldn’t worry about her so much if she was capable of catching those fast little critters. A couple of those per night would be a good meal, I would think. Oh, we also have opossums that come in baby season. Baby possums would also make a good meal for the heron. I have seen them swimming on the baby ledge of our pool. That was crazy. Seems the wildlife uses our pool more than we do these days.

The concept of warm and cool colors predates most of the scientific tools we have today to measure color. It originated from the concept of warmth vs cold. the Oxford English Dictionary describes 18th century usage to include: Cold - applied to tints or colouring which suggest a cold sunless day, or the colder effect of evening; esp. to blue and grey, and tints akin to these. Warm - suggestive of warmth, said especially of red or yellow ... to become 'warmer' or more ruddy: "On a bright morning of July, when the grey of the sky was just beginning to warm with the rising day". I always conceptualized the concept as warm-related to the heat of the sun or cool of the water. The scientific difference deals with the sensitivity of the S cone. I am not a neuro science expert, but it has something to do with thresholds of the S cone and how colors change as they are desaturated. Blue goes from blue to darker and darker blue, but we still perceive the color as blue and we name the colors as blue light blue, sky blue, navy blue. When we change the chroma Blue goes from bright blue to gray blue. You can't do the same with yellow. We only see yellow in very specific ranges of light and chroma. We call dark yellow gold or brown and as we desaturate yellow it can either move toward green or violet. At the lowest saturations there isn't any yellow or orange or red. Have you ever heard someone describe a gray as a dark yellow gray? Nope. Beige can be pink, yellow, gold or green and gray can be green gray, blue gray or violet gray. So when the hue is yellow and it is desaturated it becomes olive green or brown - moves toward red or toward green it never stays yellow. At some point it moves to either a green gray or violet gray and looses any association with yellow. Grays are innately cool. - related to water, not the sun. Do you ever picture the sun as gray? Do you ever picture water as yellow? Where is the break between cool and warm? At what level of chroma do we determine that a yellow is no longer warm, but has moved into the cool zone? That may actually depend on your physiology - some people see more colors than other and can discern subtle changes in color better than others. It may also depend on the levels of dopamine in your system - we see colors more vividly when dopamine levels are high than we do when dopamine levels are low. I don't know if their is a definitive answer to your question about Chantilly Lace. Is it above or below the S cone threshold? It seems that the color experts at Benjamin Moore agree with many other color experts and define it as a cool white so my guess is that it is beyond the threshold of chroma where we actually perceive the color as warm even if it is in a CIE LCH hue that is generally associated with the Munsell Yellow Green hue family. BTW - CIE LCH Is linear in nature, where Munsell is not. The Muncell hues curve when mapped against LCH hues. The curvature expands as chroma and luminance are reduced. How we see color and how we measure color are not perfectly correlated.

As for recommendations for colors I always start, like you, with a few samples, then decide if I need to go a bit more gray or more colorful, a bit warmer or a bit cooler. I use a tool called easyrgb, and my eyes, to help get me where I need to be ( https://www.easyrgb.com ) You can look up a color and see what the similar colors are to a specific color and limit the selection to the brands you are considering. The site uses a very high quality spectrophotometer to read colors from unused fan decks. Fan decks are printed using very good color matching technology and high levels of quality control, but they are not perfect and there is always some discrepancies, but it is a great starting place. I also have a color muse ($50.00 tristimulous color matching tool) that is good for comparing two colors and will provide you with color matches to popular brands of paint colors. It is a $50.00 tool, so don't expect perfection - but again, it will get you close. If you have something that you own that is the color you are looking to match it is the only tool that most of us can afford that will give you the information needed to get close. I have also sometimes used something as simple as excel to help me get to the right color. You can look up the RGB value - color two or three cells with the RGB Value, then change the color in one of the cells using the "More colors" option and the HSL option and I can make a color a bit less or more saturated, a bit lighter or darker, a bit warmer or cooler and then look up the new RGB value in Easy RGB and see what colors it suggests. Computers/monitors in general suck at rendering color accurately, but as long as I have something that I know I can move from that color to the correction and get where I want to be as a final result. The best numbers to use to slightly alter a color is probably the LCH notation in EasyRGB. Look up the color you like in easyrgb Hit the convert button and you will see the LCH notation. L = light (100 is white, 0 is black) C =Chroma (0 is neutral gray and the higher the number the more colorful the color becomes) H= Hue - what is the Hue measurement of the color Red=18 Orange = 54 Yellow=90 Green=160 Blue=234 Purple=306 Blue Heron CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.533 16.209 275.902° If I then look up the two closest SW colors I get Denim Blue - Just a bit less purple more true blue - just a bit more saturated - less gray and just slightly lighter CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 46.929 16.932 270.463° and Luxe Blue - more purple - not the direction I want to go. CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.501 18.259 279.397° Before buying samples of anything more I use my eyes - take the chips into natural daylight and look at them next to each other to see if what I am expecting is what I am seeing.

Julie - I think if you post actual photos showing the tiles that you are considering - at the very least - you will get some responses. Not everyone will be familiar with the tiles you’re referring to - and may skip over the post vs. having to go look up the tiles. Also, everyone on here always wants a layout drawn to scale + photos of adjoining rooms. Without the foregoing photos/layout, your post won’t receive the attention you desire. Just a thought. . .