I have yellow elberta freestone peaches and yellow freestone nectarines and satsuma mandarin oranges (tangerines) I can take scions from. I would be interested in scions from your naval oranges and possibly plums and cherries depending on what varieties you have. I'm looking for yellow cherries and a black cherry to cross pollinate the black cherry I have. I'm just learning to do grafting and rooting too. Last year I had only limited success out of more than 100 cuttings, but I did get several grape vines and 3 or 4 eureka lemons to root. I mostly learned what does not work. Let me know what varieties you have and if you would like to trade.

Okay, applenut is correct, never amend your soil. You just create a hole the tree will love to live in, and the roots will be less inclined to venture out. Instead, you should dig a hole about 2 to 3 times as wide as the root ball to loosen up your native soil. Plant the tree at the same height it was in, in the pot. Create a nice large well around the tree, with the perimeter of the well lower than the height of the trunk (so water will drain away from the trunk, and to the feeder roots which are at the edge of the canopy and a little beyond. What is known as the "drip line".) Mulch 2 to 4" deep with compost, then top with wood chips to help maintain moisture. If you're on clay soil, you're much better off building raised beds (a whole different topic). Wait to fertilize for a couple of months, until the feeder roots are established, then fertilize about every 2 months from Feb/March through Oct/Nov with a good citrus fertilizer that also contains micronutrients (Grow More Citrus & Avocado food is an excellent product). Don't worry about adjusting the pH. Not necessary here in S. California. NEVER allow overhead sprinklers to water your citrus trees as you currently are doing. They do not like their trunks wet, and this is a sure way to kill a young citrus tree, fast. Instead, use microsprinklers or 2 to 4 drips to fill the well (with young trees, they only need one or two drips, but lay 4 and turn them on as your tree grows, as well as move them out and away from the trunk to follow the canopy edge). Water well enough so that the soil is moist for about 12 to 18" deep. The philosophy of deep watering has been revamped for citrus. Citrus are shallow rooted trees, so if you're watering 2 to 3 feet down, you're just wasting water. The easy way to know - use a rod (I use one of those cheap green plastic covered metal plant stakes you can get at Home Depot/Lowes). If you can easily insert the stake 12 to 18" down, your soil is moist enough. You may also need to apply a micronutrient foliar application, soil drench or micronutrient granular application in the early spring/late winter, as our S. California soils tend to get depleted, and our colder winter rains can lock out the absorption of micronutrients, which will cause your leaves to look chloritic. It's usually not iron deficiency for most folks in S. Calif, but manganese deficiency. You can use Grow Power Citrus Grower's Blend, which is a water-soluble micronutrient product that can be sprayed on the leaves or poured into the soil. Here is a good resource for you to manage your citrus. I agree with applenut, your trees may be too wet. Check the soil and see. If so, turn off your sprinklers, then pull them out, and set microsprinklers or drips. Once established, a once a week watering is probably fine except during our very hot days in the summer, when you'll need to check and make sure your trees don't get too dry. They first symptom of being too dry will be cupped leaves. This is actually how commercial growers know to water their orchards. And, bookmark this site: http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/Fruits_&_Nuts/Citrus/ This is the UC Davis Backyard Orchard-Citrus page. Very helpful for us here in California. Lastly, you're probably better off posting this sort of question either on the Citrus Forum or on the California Gardening Forum. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: Four Winds Growers: How to Grow Citrus in the Ground

These types of double leaves are common with citrus. It is normal for kaffir lime to be this way. I have seen it on others, including a Sudachi I have: The other problem I see is the curling of the leaves. Are you watering enough? What kind of fertilizer are you using and how often?

Kelly, what part of SoCal are you in? Here in SD I have a lot of clay when I get down a few feet. I about killed a Washington Navel, I think the whole I dug didn't drain well, plus I had a lot of insect-type critters munching on it. What was a nice small tree when I bought it, had a lot of branch die back. I eventually dug it up and put it in a large pot where I could give it more care. Between applying Neem when needed, plus more control over watering and better attention to fertilizer, it's gone from one straggly, sickly branch, to multiple much fuller branches. It's not recovered enough to where I would want to put it back into the ground, but it's getting better. You may want something longer than a pencil to check moisture. Moisture building up at the bottom of the hole will rot the roots, so maybe try to find a longer wooden dowel to check on your moisture. My local nursery recommended not putting mulch around citrus as they do not like wet roots.