Cilantro is an annual - meaning it lives for only one growing season. Even here in the frozen north, cilantro never lasts longer than a few weeks before beginning to bolt. I have seen some unhappy annuals skip bolting and go straight to the end of their life cycle (in other words, dying). But you got more life out of your cilantro than many do! Direct sow some cilantro seed (aka coriander) in waves for best results and supply. They are very easy to grow from seed. FataMorgana

I dug out the middle - still seems a little cool/darker color so not quite dry? Maybe I mixed it too wet (hard to mix just a small amount). Anyway, the middle moves - do you think the EZ Sand will bond the back of the drywall to the front of the patch, or do I have to cut all the way through (and find some way to get backer material in there?)? At this point I'm wondering how good a patch it has to be, since we'll eventually put a window seat/built in bookcases there? That might be 10 years from now though...

Removing them is the obvious solution. Is there some reason you don't want to? Two things to try come to mind. One is to pack the area in cottage cheese for about an hour. Rinse well, and dry. Of course you don't want anything tight that would cut off circulation, but ace bandages wound not tight come to mind, covered with little boy panties, tail through the fly hole. If there is any infection, the germs will migrate into the cottage cheese and then be rinsed away. The cool cottage cheese right from the fridge is soothing. I've used it lots of times on doggy lick spots (especially licked feet) and it's a miracle. Another thought and easier, just to try to get him to stop licking, is sprinkle the area with Gold Bond powder a few times a day as needed. It does kill some types of "bad bugs" (read the label) and dogs don't like menthol. Another thought is to soak the area in warm epsom salt water for a few minutes. It's amazing how that can take away pain and promote healing. Another thought and almost a given is to put him in an Elizabethan collar (they also have inflatable ones now that lots of folks like better) for several days while you try to heal up whatever is wrong.

keithintx I will post my expert opinion on your post. I did not suggest FC level is low. I do not agree that the pool needs to be drained at this time. This water condition should be managed by an expert technician or CPO. Most experts will agree with me. These values only provide suggestive data that the water is corrosive. These values are most likey skewed based on the corrosive water condition. In this situation I would look at the baylis curve as a starting point to drive my corrective action. The SI confirms the existance of a corrosive water condition. However, the data can be influenced by many factors (chloramines, phosphates and other organics and ions in SOLN) which is why the management of this water condition will require several days of daily testing and management. The reason the white spots and lines are appearing is the result of the following sequence of deterioration: 1.) The corrosive water begins to dissolve the undistrubed deposits in the substrate opening up micropits and microcracks (etching). 2.) As these pits and cracks open up (etching), newly formed white precipate deposits in these voids and helps to actually slow down the attack in these open voids limiting the destruction to 2-3 mm. However, other areas are still susceptible if the condition persists. * studies show that the initial appearance of this destruction is in areas that have either the least or most amount of water circulation (water ejection from slotted eyeballs on the surface of the substrate - high or coves, vertical surfaces, corners of steps - low, etc.) In an earlier comment on this post before having the water analysis I suggested that this appeared to be likely due to effloresence which is clearly not the case given the water conditions.