Hi, I need some experienced advice based on the spread/growth habit of Viburnum lentago (ÂNannyberry ViburnumÂ). I want to plant two Viburnum lentago shrubs in my yard - I need two to ensure fruiting. I know that (under optimal conditions, when left naturally as a multiple-trunk shrub as IÂll grow them) Viburnum lentago can reach around 18 to 20Âtal; IÂm not sure of the spread on a 20 tall specimen, but I think it would be around 10 to 15Â? My situation is this: I have a single 12 gap in my landscape and a separate 7 gap (which is in heavy shade). I could either both shrubs in the 12 gap or one shrub in the 12 gap and the other shrub in the 8 gap. 1. If I grow the two shrubs in the 12 gap (allowed 6 spread each), would they still grow to a tall height? I want them to grow tall for privacy and I read from one source that when their spread is restricted, they do not grow as large  I hope that not as large means not as wide, net not restricting the height. 2. If I grow only one of the two shrubs in the 12 gap, will the other shrub out-of-view grown in a tight 7 gap in heavy shade produce too few flowers that not much pollination between the two. 3. If I plant the two in the 12 gap only 1 apart, would the two root systems inosculate (fuse, natural graft) so that, in effect, one shrub would be formed that bares flowers from both originals. 4. If I plant the two 4 apart and give them a little more spread (opening the gap to 15 total), maybe since they can spread out freely on opposing ends and only have dense mutual shade in between them. 5. Would you recommend I leave one in the 12 gap and leave the other in the small 7 shaded spot in the corner of the yard, but remove scion wood from the second to be grafted onto the first? I would hope that grafting viburnum spp is not difficult, although I would imagine that this might require some upkeep since they are always putting out more suckers and perhaps crowding out old ones. Thanks, Steve So, to recap, I need two for cross-pollination for fruiting, and I would like at least one of the two to grow around 18 tall.

I purchased seedlings of Viburnum recognitum (northern Arrowwood) and V. lentago from the NH State Nursery 4 years ago. They are about 5 years old now and haven't bloomed yet. From what I understand, Viburnums are self-sterile and require 2 genetically different individuals to pollinate. I am looking forward to the first blooms and berries. I also inherited several specimens of Viburnum carlesii, both the tall variety and a couple 'Compactum'. They are so fragrant, however, all but one died after I transplanted them! The previous owner planted them in inappropriate places (like just about everything else!) I wonder if the non-native Viburnums are very fussy?

I'm not sure about Viburnum obovatum. I know people plant the Viburnum suspensum for 'near-instant privacy' and that others use the V. obovatum 'whorld class' as a nice dense low-hedge, but I haven't seen many examples of the full-sized V. obovatums being used as a privacy hedge. Usually when I see pictures of them they have been trained into standards and used as specimens. According to Florida's Best Native Landscape Plants: Height: 6-30 ft Landscape Use: Serves well as a large, unpruned, natural screen but may be sheared to produce a more compact hedge. Very good as a specimen shrub or small shade tree, or when situated in a mixed shrub bed. Best Features: Walter's Viburnum flowers profusely in early spring. Its dense foliage and summer fruit provide excellent nesting, cover and food sources for a variety of birds and wildlife. And excellent screening plant for difficult areas, or when planted along edges of naturalistic landscapes.

As a significant consumer of viburnums myself, I must agree with dkgarber's interest in the genus, and esh_ga's list of choices presented. I disagree that one should return V. x burkwoodii just 'cause it isn't native to North America. V. x burkwoodii actually hails from England, derived from the fine work of Mssrs. Burkwood and Skipwith early in the last century. It is a hybrid of V. carlesii and V. utile (which are Asian), and was selected for vigor, fragrance, and semi-evergreen character depending on what zone you garden in. This is a perfectly good plant for the bones of any garden, and that's all I'll say about it (since this is the native plants forum). For the original question, big plants that grow quickly and fruit heavily for feathered friends would include: ÂV. dentatum - arrowwood is the most rewarding shrub that requires the least work. There are over 25 different clones available for fall color, fresh foliage, fine flowering, fantastic fruiting, form... ÂV. rufidulum - the rusty blackhaw rewards the gardener with lustrous substantial foliage and great fall color, on top of copious bloom and heavy fruiting. This is a small tree, and can be grown multi-stemmed if desired. ÂV. prunifolium - blackhaw appears nearly the same plant as rusty blackhaw, differing mainly in the coloration of the dormant buds, timing of bloom, and less glossy foliage. It is another small tree that can be grown multi-stemmed. ÂV. nudum - Raisin viburnum (this really needs a better common name) is a versatile big shrub with glossy summer foliage, tons of flowers, fruit that proceeds through an incredible range of colors before finally settling on a deep blue at maturity, and tremendous persistent fall color. 'Winterthur' is the most common clone available. Since one should always plant multiple related individuals (not solely one clone) in order to achieve best fruiting, look for others like 'Brandywine', 'Earth Shade', etc. so that cross-pollination is maximized. With these four native species, you can create a 12 week flowering sequence (mid-spring to early summer) as well as a really long period of fruiting for birds and your enjoyment. Except for the few species that have shown some invasive tendencies (notably V. dilatatum in the mid-Atlantic region), I'd venture to take a go at almost any viburnum you come across to increase your collection.