First of all, you do not need to learn how to work with Camera Raw format. That format offers you abilities to do work on an image that a JPG doesn't, but if you mostly want to publish photos on the Web, then working with good quality JPGs is going to be quite sufficient. And yes, digital cameras all produce some degree of "noise" in images. It works pretty much the same way as film does: the higher the light sensitivity (ASA) the more visible the grain or "noise" becomes. So if you are setting your camera with a very high light sensitivity, 1600 ASA for example, the noise ("graininess") in the photos will go way up. Setting the sensitivity as low as you can is always advisable as long as it doesn't compromise your getting a sharp, clear image. Getting a good image depends on three basic factors: 1) shutter speed - the duration of the opening of the shutter must be as short as possible, within reason, to eliminate any motion of the subject or shaking of the camera operator's hands. Generally you want to use a shutter speed of at least 1/125 of a second or less. 2) depth of field - this controls how sharp the photo is by determining how much of the subject from closest-to-camera to furthest-from-camera is within the range of focus of the lens. Depth of field is determined by how small a lens opening (aperture) you set. It is usually a balancing act between shutter speed and aperture to get lots of depth of field and still use a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate any motion. Most inexpensive digital cameras don't allow you much (or any) control over these settings and simply make a decision for you. This isn't always ideal, but you may not get a full range of features from a camera in your affordability range. If possible, look for a camera that does allow you some manual control. 3) image quality settings - set the ISO/ASA ("film speed" or light sensitivity) as low as lighting conditions will allow. I personally enjoy shooting under overcast conditions which I feel best displays the full range of color of flowers and eliminates hard shadows and highlights. On a cloudy day you can often get a much more painterly look than a bright day. This means you may have to set the camera's light sensitivity to a higher setting, like 400 ASA/ISO or even higher, in order to get both a fast shutter speed and reasonable depth of field. (Keep in mind that depth of field is optional for some kinds of photos: sometimes you don't want everything to be sharply in focus from front to back, and so you may want to shoot with the lens wide open = very little depth of field) Under cloudy conditions I will often set the camera sensitivity to 400 or even 800 if necessary. If you are very lucky and the air is very still, you can use a tripod and leave the ASA/ISO setting way down at 100 (or however low your camera allows) and when you do that, you are reducing the "noise" in the image to minimum. I work exclusively with a Nikon D80 and I find that at its lowest ASA/ISO (which is 100) I can get a very large image that shows next to no noise. Even when I turn up the sensitivity to 800, I can still get a very good image with very little image noise. Its only when I turn sensitivity up to 1600 or more that image noise becomes very noticeable. A few other points: Jeri mentioned image editing software. Your needs are probably going to be very basic at the start and so perhaps Photoshop Elements might be all you need. I'm not sure what other tools might be available in the cheap-to-free range. I gather that Google's Picasa offers the basic photo editing tools. See link below. If you are up to grappling with a fairly steep learning curve, there is a free Photoshop type editing suite called The Gimp and it is almost as powerful as the full Photoshop suite, minus a few of the tools and filters. There are plenty of tutorials online to help you learn how to use it. Also, as Cass mentioned, if you are working on an OS X iMac (as I do) then you can do many image manipulations using the built in iPhoto tools. I can't tell you much about iPhoto though, since I use Photoshop CS4 as my tool of choice. If you can get your head around the idea of buying a used camera, you will undoubtedly get a lot more camera for your money. You might be lucky enough to get a DSLR for what you have to spend. I sold my Nikon D70 two years ago for less than half what I paid for it and the person who bought it got a really good deal. It was an excellent camera and I'm sure it still has years of service in it. So, you may want to consider buying second hand. People often sell their current camera to upgrade to a newer, more capable one (as I did) and there is absolutely nothing wrong with the camera they are selling, they just want to move up a level. Finally, if you already have an understanding of the basics of film camera photography, then you already know most of what is important in digital photography. All of the same basic principles apply to both, its just a matter of learning how to use the specific camera controls to get what you need from a digital. No need to be intimidated by digital imaging, especially if you have a friend who cam teach you along the way. Regards, Paul B. Here is a link that might be useful: Picasa

I'm new to this forum and I have to say that this thread has really made my day. Did anyone notice that OP never came back? Maybe it's all much ado about nothing, but I'd like to add my two cents. Some salient points. OP is not a farmer. It is clear he or she is not looking to make an economic gain out of the proposed small modification to their landscape. Also, they did not state that they were into organic gardening. They stated two alternatives, and asked which would be better for their specific gardening need. Presumably "better" here refers to the well-being of the plants in the bed. The best point here was made by GG, is that they should avoid raising the soil level around existing trees. The rest seems to miss the point or be off-topic. While it's nice that you can amend poor soil with compost, that's not related to the question at hand since OP didn't say he was concerned about poor soil. Those of us who are not farmers (or nurserymen), who garden as a hobby, understand that like any hobby we will spend on it, in amount that we see fit. Topsoil, at like $20-30/yd is really quite inexpensive. If your soil is garbage, it can be much easier to build raised beds than to engage in a lengthy amendment process. Of course, you have to know what you're getting. But isn't that true for anything? If I asked you if I should drive my car or walk, would you say "you shouldn't say the word car, because the quality and makeup of cars can be very different depending on the manufacturer"? followed up by the witty quip, "people got around before there were car dealerships"? I pose the question because I wonder if OP feels their question was even addressed, in spite of all the sound and fury. Joshehansen, I think part of the problem is that it's not clear, specifically what's your concern? Are you worried about digging in the soil around your trees' roots? Or is it removing the existing mulch, that you feel something else should be brought in to take its place? Anyway, thanks for starting such an amusing thread.

Loves2read, funny that the Florida Cl seems better than your Dallas CL. I found the opposite, with much better CL options here in Milwaukee vs Florida. Maybe because there is such old stock here. Most of Florida seems to have been populated after the 60's, and I am not too keen on the quality of recently made furniture. I'd rather rehab something solid wood. My needs are unique, though: dirt cheap but great potential. And I have time to search out pieces and to rehab them. I just finished a $7 Goodwill chair that started like this and now is this I am learning to sew and upholster practicing on the guest rooms, ha. The chair will go in the twin bedroom for which I just found those wicker headboards. I have miles of the red fabric ($1/yd) for bedskirts and scored 2 new oatmeal linen Shabby Chic duvets at Goodwill into which I'm slipping clearance Kohl's $16 quilts. I have a free dresser that needs painting, and some Goodwill wicker lamps. Some CL desks and tables, and a little yardsale dhurrie rug. Sew up some pillows. DH and I will make artwork - and I use the term loosely. Voila! One room done. I found it helps to let a vision evolve in your head for each room. I go nowhere now without my notepad filled with fabric scraps, paint colors and dimensions.

I did purchase my new King mattress from the same local manufacturer that made my custom rv mattress. I love this company, I was able to tell him exactly how I wanted it to feel on top and how much support and firmness for the core. I did get the individual covered separate coils for less movement and the bamboo top fabric because I sleep hot and the bamboo fabric is great for me. It has the euro top instead of the pillow top the old one had. It is just beautiful too. I really debated if I should get a latex layer in the top, ended up not getting it, but if I was doing it again it would be worth the extra money. I love my latex pillows so much I think I would like the latex layer. I absolutely did not want any type of memory foam I can't stand it. I do have the option to let him take it back and add the latex layer still. Another great thing about this place! I have recommended them to several of our friends, especially those with an rv. And the prices are fantastic. So far I have not had any back pain like I was having from the old one. Super comfortable and extremely supportive. I especially wanted the heavy solid foam sides which will support you sitting on the edge or pushing on it getting up and out. I am a side sleeper and I tend to sleep on the edge of the bed, it supports me completely. I could jump on my side and never move my husband's side. The only thing that I wish was different is how much higher this one is. Thank goodness my sheets still fit. I have no idea if they ship out or not but I know they deliver all around the Houston area.