Doc - a few points. You most assuredly can compost in NYC in closed containers. I've been doing it for a long time now. However, the five gallon containers are almost useless for making compost - get some big garbage cans. I use the 5 gallon containers for storage of stuff from the kitchen. In the spring I dump them onto the ground, mix it with the leaves I've swept up from the big tree out front, and put that into a large garbage can. Every 2 weeks or so, I dump that out and mix it up, adding more leaves or shredded paper as needed, or letting it bake in the sun for a bit to get the moisture right. The stuff from the kitchen has a lot of moisture - too much for your compost and it's going to stink. If you have a paper shredder, you're in luck. Or if you've saved leaves from fall, you're in luck. But that's all too much for the five gallon container. But there are still some caveats. First, you'll never get the internal temp you want. But I keep my container in full sun and on a 90 degree day, it gets pretty steamy and hot. It's more like you're baking the compost, but it does break down. That plus the freezing in the winter, breaks down all the cells and makes it a nice compost. Second, you'll get squirrels for sure, anywhere in NYC. Maybe rats too but definitely squirrels and they'll simply eat right through your plastic containers if they smell something they like. Onions are particularly attractive to them. Third, you'll also get mosquitos and flies and ants and maybe even roaches in the heat of the summer. Fourth, you'll need a final use for your compost. What are you going to do with the compost in your apartment? I think it's great that you want to do it and I wish I had all the stuff from your juicer, but at the end of the day, if you have a lot of compost, what good is it in your apartment? I do it out back, but I own the whole brownstone and the compost goes into the garden. I usually get 2 completed loads a year thru the summer, doing it as I described. People say you don't need to "turn" the pile, but that's because they have piles. If you do it in containers, believe me, you need to turn it. Just upend the container, mix it up, and shovel it back in. Sometimes I leave it to dry out for a few hours if it's too wet. It's not going to work otherwise. If you're composting in closed containers the rules are a little different. It's more work than doing it on the ground in a pile, and you'll never get the internal temps you would in a "real" pile, but you can get well over 100F in June/July/August. You also have to turn it yourself - there aren't going to be all the bugs and worms and critters doing it for you, and there's no drainage, so any moisture stays in the container, which means you'll end up with some stinky rotten mass and some completely dry parts in your container if you don't keep at it. That said, you can end up with perfect compost nonetheless. As I said, I've been making perfect compost for many years, using a few garbage cans. Best of luck to you!

The person who criticized my posts for being too complicated, better just stop now. I guess it helps to remember the zones are 'USDA', which is the US department of agriculture and really has nothing to do with ornamental plants. Nein. Ornamental plants ARE part of the USDA's mission. That's why the National Arboretum is under their aegis. Remember wholesale nurseries definitely are a form of agriculture. The USDA zone system gives the barest measure of whether a plant can survive in a given area. Obviously, something hardy only in zone 10 cannot survive in zone 6. Beyond that, there are many other factors. The latest revised USDA zone map seems very accurate to me. I know of gardens along the Delaware river in NJ that really do seem like zn 7b. But it took a ridiculously long time to come out...considering the overall crunching of data probably took a few hours on a high perf. workstation or server. (in case you don't know, it's based on a climate model developed at U Oregon called "Prism") This was not some advanced climate simulation going on like trying to predict hurricanes. And given that computer technology has advanced so much including the algorithm development one would have to say the current USDA map reflects a certain lack of vision, though, again, at least they finally got it correct. By this I mean something like the Sunset system could have been developed, although there were problems with that approach if you try to extend it over the country. Rather than discrete numbers that could get ridiculously long for certain plants (i.e., this grows in 21, 33,34,35,36,37,38,40,52,61,62,63,64,75,78 etc) it could have used a series of vectors that graph a space representing the plant's preferences. Zones 1 to 10 would still be the first dimension of this system so you don't "break compatibility" with what we already have. The two main additional factors I would propose would be aridity, and summer temperature. There are several reasons for this; namely, there are already 2 factors certain nurseries use when selling plants. The AHS "heat zone" map exists, and is used by a few nurseries to show warning on certain species, and aridity scales have been adopted by Desert Northwest and High Country Gardens. Mind you these scales would not necessarily be linear and could code a sub-dimension, or even be matrixed to code an additional factor. For example it might make more sense for moisture to go: part of year arid - sporadic/none of year - all year - part of year but high atmospheric moisture. Because there are non-linearities in the way plants behave with respect to that, and with summer temperature. Some cool summer seasonal plants are actually known to grow in all year rainfall climates like England, but only with cool summers. The point is the arrange things in the way that leads to the most chances of solid groupings. Such mathematical shenanigans might make it hard for people to understand how to derive their own zone, but the point is it doesn't matter. They will get their zone off a map. Also different from the Sunset zones, there no need for a comprehensive, singular map because everyone will use some kind of smart device in the future that can easily click one location between 3 or more different maps. So a zone like mine would go from 7a (I think the a/b is of more limited usefulness than most people realize, though I have and will continue to reference the subzones) to something like 7J6. 7 being 0 to 10f min annual temp, J being a climate with rain all year but some expectation of brief droughts, and 6 being heat zone 6. Let's call it the Comprehensive Plant Zone. A _PLANT_ ranges, versus a gardening location, would go from "USDA zone 7-10" for a maritime climate plant like Eucryphia, to "CPZ (comprehensive plant zoning) zone "7H2-10M4" meaning that range of minimum winter temps, and a generally moist climate though accepting somewhat dry summers, as long as 3) the summers are cool. I would instantly recognize that I can't grow the plant because I'm off on one of the codes. Of course, this will never happen and there will be howls of "it's too complicated" but you can be sure in the early 1960s some hayseeds saw the first Harvard zone map and said "oh them fancy professors and their durn maps, I know what grows here and uh don't need some map." Also let's face that other than the big midwestern cities the net migration in the country is towards the SE, S & W where the USDA zone system is least useful. USDA system is most useful for telling people in Iowa there are many, many plants that they are far too cold to grow (sorry Iowans, someone had to be an example) than answering the question for someone in Phoenix, Arizona of whether a certain species of Protea could grow there. (and I reckon a couple of the most heat tolerant ones could) That a sunset zone map was made for the whole country is something I applaud, my idea just tries to make their system easier to use when dealing with a lot of customers and plants. Instead of saying "that only grows in 31, not 42" it's more helpful to say "your moisture factor of J is too much for an A-E plant, it will rot".

novice, it doesn't seem the iron phosphate slug baits are very effective for sow/pill bugs. You're on the right track by removing daytime hiding places for them - in my garden, it was pulling the little 1" spreading sedum I'd thought a really charming groundcover in between perennials. My sowbugs haven't been a problem again since removing it. Diatomaceous earth is helpful, but if you're still having those rains - wet diatomaceous earth doesn't have the same effect as dry. Here is a link that might be useful: OSU - pill/sow bug

We have snow here in Portland Oregon too! We didn't have any last winter & hardly ever get much. So the TV stations are going crazy. We did go out in it early this morning since we have a veterinary hospital with boarders & patients we don't get a choice & that's why we live very close! It's very pretty but has slowed way down now. Since we never believe them when the threaten this weather I had to go out & insulate my spickets this morning & add some more bedding to my feral cat's house & defrost the humming bird feeders. I'd love to hold up in my sewing room but I have a bunch of house cleaning to do first, wah! I'll definatley save the puzzle, thanks Bill