I haven't grown any of these, but that photo of Red Zebra shows a 2-cell and Tatiana's describes it as round. The OP's tomato, on the other hand, looks larger, definitely isn't round, and looks like it's probably a beefsteak type with many more cells. Other stripey bicolors would include Beauty King and Beauty Queen. Beauty King is described as oblate or round. http://t.tatianastomatobase.com:88/wiki/Beauty_King Beauty Queen is slightly smaller but also a beefsteak. http://t.tatianastomatobase.com:88/wiki/Beauty_Queen

Sorry, I should've included more information. So here it is: I'm in southern California, zone 10. This plant was planted in a 7 gallon container, and is put out on our rooftop deck where it gets full sun about 6 hrs/day, sometimes even more. I planted it in a container with Ocean Frost potting soil, and I applied Dr. Earth tom, veg, herb fertilizer only once when I planted it in Feb of this year. I water every other day, or when the soil looks dry, I water thoroughly as I read that's the best way to water these tomato plants. I water in the morning before going to work, and I also adjust for rain (which hasn't happened that often, but it has rained pretty hard for a day or so, within the past couple weeks). Hope that helps! :) Thanks! Cenesia

Libby, the beadboard was super easy. Dh is handy, but by no means a pro. And it's a project he's never taken on. We just bough a couple sheets, and he cut them to size. Then nailed with a nail gun. Chaulked around the seams, and put a little piece of trim along the bottom. We also used the zinser primer. And BM satin impervo. We painted the boxes ourselves, and had a painter spray the doors. I love the finish done by spraying it. But, I probably would have been ok with brushing it on ourselves. Because you have SS appliances, I think yours will look amazing. I'm not a fan of white appliances and white cabs. But, I did it anyones. Just to kill off that oak :) we used two colors, BM white dove for tops, and BM baby fawn for bottom cabs. They're too ligth on bottom. Didn't do what I was wanting. So, we'll re paint them whenever I realize I can't stand it any more :) I'm a little over the whole thing for now, lol few before and after beadboard

The purple edges could have originated with a deficiency, but since it's on the oldest leaves, which might be senescing anyway, it's hard to say. It's common for young seedlings to have phosphorus deficiency, even when grown under ideal conditions, and they outgrow it as they mature. Those leaves probably have been phosphorus deficient at one time. Not a big deal unless you're seeing symptoms on newer growth. Leaf mold is a fungus. As for keeping things "natural", that's a word that's a moving target, so I don't really know how you define that. If you mean without intervention, your plants will succumb to nutrient problems if you don't fertilize them regularly. So you definitely need to intervene there. You can try to not intervene with regard to diseases by being hypervigilant and pruning off any affected leaves immediately upon noticing the slightest symptoms. Since you live in an area that doesn't have blazing sun, perhaps you can get away with the defoliation, although loss of photosynthesis capacity can also affect production and flavor of fruit. I personally would not try to grow tomatoes in a cool, humid environment like yours without fungicide. Note that the safer, organic fungicides available to home gardeners are almost all primarily preventative in nature. They are not curative. Once your plants have disease, the best they can do is slow down infection of unaffected foliage. And because you're growing in too-small containers, the strategy of giving plants the best conditions and preventing stress to them in order to boost their ability to resist disease is not available to you. The varieties you're growing will be very stressed in those small containers once they get larger. If you want to grow tomatoes without spraying, in future figure out what diseases are common to your garden and select hybrid varieties bred for resistance to those diseases. Even that's not perfect, as resistance does not equal immunity--it just means the plants resist the disease longer and go down from them more slowly--but it could give you enough of a boost to get decent production. And research best growing practices, such as adequate container size.