In that case, it shouldn't kill you! :-) I'd fix the grade first. From what you've said, I'm not envisioning a who slope that's off, just a big hole in the middle, maybe with raised edges. Settling after you try to regrade can be a big problem if it isn't compacted well, but I hate to tell you this, it's going to be somewhat a problem no matter what because of the underground roots that will rot over the next 5-10 years. So I'm warning you that even if you do it correctly right now, you'll have to repeat this... Regrading with a bobcat will destroy the structure of your soil, too, and wouldn't fix the settling problem, so this is the better way to go, anyway. If there isn't a TON of sawdust, I'd leave it. It will rot. If there's a lot, rake it out and compost/dispose of it. If there's a raised ridge, shovel it into the hole before you start. If it's small enough, I'd get the cheap topsoil from Lowe's and just fill it in by hand. Get three times as much as you think will make a 3" hill on top of the low place. Then, once you use all the soil you bought and realize you don't have enough, go back for more. :-) (Can you tell I've done this???) Compress it as well as you can by stamping on it. Then water it and compress it some more. I'd do this every day for about a week. Pack as much in as you can. Even then, don't make it perfectly flat--a very slight doming will be your friend when that rotting I was taking about happens. (I'm saying this as I glare at a spot that WAS flat 6 months ago...) A garden rake can help you apply the final flatness, so it isn't all lumpy. You can kill all the grass next. Chemically is one option. Cut the grass as short as humanly possible, and for once, I wouldn't mulch--the seed needs to touch bare ground, and there could be some weed seeds in what you cut. Round-Up is a very safe way to do it. Buy the super-concentrated stuff and dilute it yourself. Using stuff with dye to mark where you spray might be helpful, too. The alternative is renting a sod cutter. It will make germination easier, but I've never done it, and anyhow, I like the idea of keeping all the roots and things to rot and provide organic matter to my new baby grass. Decide whether you want sod, plugs, or seed. I've only done seed, myself. I have been happiest with local mixes made by local lawn and garden companies for my particular climate. Google planting a new lawn--there's plenty out there about watering intervals, protecting with straw, etc. In the future, when the spot settles again, just throw another bag of top soil over it, tamp it down, and reseed.

re: fast release nitrogen >>>>" I've not found the reasoning behind this and my brain is struggling." Try these http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4DMG/Lawns/mythwint.htm http://www.agry.purdue.edu/turf/tips/2005/octf1024.htm http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/regions/lawnandgarden/FallLawnCareGuide.pdf http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene3de4.html http://www.greenviewfertilizer.com/articles/late-fall-fertilization/ - >>>> "Having some trouble with the Lesco site search. I found a urea formaldehyde slow release (10-30weeks), but it says 'powder' in the title http://www.lesco.com/ProdCatalog/ProdCatalogNav.aspx?Keyword=00106" SKU #001638 http://www.lesco.com/NoCompression/GetData.aspx?Type=ProdResource&ID=4995&.pdf - >>>>" The P and K numbers I can decide on based on a soil test, but how do you pick the N number? Or does it not really matter as you are going to be applying 1# N / 1000sqft anyways? Yup, you're coming along great! A 25-X-X will be applied at 4 Lbs per 1000 A 33-X-X will be applied at 3 Lbs per 1000 and so on and so on. - >>>"For example, a 36-0-0 polycoated scu http://www.lesco.com/ProdCatalog/ProdCatalogNav.aspx?Keyword=088145 it lists 32.4% slowly available N which I calculated 32.4/36 = 90% WIN You're exactly right! Rookie, eh? - >>>>The SCU stuff says 10-15 weeks of coverage. So if I apply in May, sometime in July/August the nitrogen will run out? But I'm assuming that is OK since those are the hot months and grass isnt growing during that time? Spot on thinking! If not irrigated, the grass will go dormant. What's the use of fertilizing then? - >>>>Speaking of sulfur coating, is storing this in the garage going to smell up the place? All fertilizers have a certain smell to them. RubberMaid containers work great. - >>>>>What are your thoughts on MSU showing July/Aug applications of 0.5-1.0 #N/1000 for 'high fertility' levels http://www.turf.msu.edu/fertilizing-home-lawns-to-protect-water-quality.Those would be in addition to the May/Sept/Oct applications Sure, on high maintenance turf like a golf course with more than adequate irrigation, 0.5Lbs N every 2 weeks is doable. But take note of this picture from Purdue. If you wanted to do an exercise program behind a spreader this summer, use Milorganite instead. But for your property this seems cost prohibitive,

Catkin--With PR's fast establishment and fine fescue's slow growth, mowing lower than normal should be fine. Perennial rye is a bunch grass and so are all the fine fescues except for creeping red fescue. So the only grass in your lawn that will spread at all is the CRF. This is not a function of the soil, but a function of the grasses in your lawn. Bunch grasses don't spread even when the soil is healthy. If you've got enough CRF in the fine fescue mix you put in last fall, it may spread enough to keep the lawn full once you get it into good shape to start. CRF doesn't spread as aggressively as KBG does, so I think your plan to overseed now is probably a good idea. In the future, if the CRF doesn't make up enough of the mixture, you may need to overseed again. Fine fescue doesn't germinate quite as fast as rye, but it germinates much faster than KBG so if you need to overseed in the future, you can probably still avoid scalping, but you'll probably want to mow lower to give the new seeds a chance to establish before the existing grass needs to be mowed. Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

If it were smooth wall, a good painter could handle it. But when dealing with textures, you need someone who specializes in it. Even with smooth wall, if extensive taping is necessary, the drywall specialist is still a good idea. A good drywaller will make a lot less mess too, because they lay the mud out initially better and it needs less sanding.