Will Brought in an expert and he verified the triv plague. It has horizontal growth and when it gets tall, it falls over showing brown under-growth. Actually pretty in the early spring when its short (beware) It grew unbelievably fast and the expert said if I didn't act quickly and decidedly I would have to contact a golf course to use one of their greens mowers. So it was 2 rounds of Roundup at least 18" past the known edge of the triv. Used my power rake to pull up the dead turf. That was almost a mistake because the viney triv kept wrapping around the spindle. It worked out OK because I had a perfectly contoured base for replanting. I live by Michigan State University and they have a wealth of "Green" info. We prefer to use "Spartan Grade A". Its a Kentucky Blue mix with some drought resistant/ winter resistant strains. Works for us Yankees here. Good luck Mark

If your grass is a lighter shade of green you need to amend the soil. Apply Pelletized Lime, and a good hefty application of milorganite. Follow up with some Scotts Turf Builder Starter and good deep watering for several days. Water early in the morning, and during hotter days water again mid day. Each time you water make sure you water enough so the soil becomes moist DEEPLY. Make sure your mower blade is very sharp and cut at the end of the day when the worst of the sun has passed. Set your mower blade high to leave some length to your lawn, don't cut it very short. Taller grass keeps the soil from drying out, and gives the grass more of a chance to be touched by the sun. The green color is caused by the presence of a compound called "chlorophyll," which the plant produces to do photosynthesis, which is how plants get energy from sunlight.

The OP's original question: "So, if you leave them to dry and turn brown (before you apply them as mulch) what becomes of the nutrients? Do they somehow wither away?" Your question has already been answered, but I wanted to present it in a little different way. Dried grass is hay. the purpose of hay is as a way to preserve the nutrients in the grass so that those nutrients remain somewhat stable and palatable for animals. Properly dried (cured) and stored hay keeps the majority of its nutritional value for a least a couple of years. The control factor is moisture, and the art of producing quality hay is all about moisture management. Once moisture enters the hay/grass it is the catalyst that begins the process of breaking down/decomposition/composting. The answer to "what happens to the nutrients" is linked the moisture levels.

Cannot tell. They don't show the guaranteed analysis on any of their pictures. It must be on a label on the back of the bag. If you could take a pic of the back of the bag or somehow get the guaranteed analysis, then we could help you. In the pictures it looks like a creeping red fescue. Tell us where you live and post a couple pictures of your yard and we can get you going. One thing to note is that spring is the second worst time of year to sow grass seed. Summer is the worst. If you plant now you are going to have a yard full of crabgrass by July. That is because spring is when crabgrass seed germinates. If you put your grass seed down and water it, the crabgrass will germinate first giving you the impression your target grass is coming in. Spring is also a bad time because the roots of your new grass will not be hardy enough by summer to make it through the heat. So for these two reasons, you will have a crabgrass lawn by July. Having said that, at least crabgrass dies in late fall...and at least crabgrass is green in the summer. Late summer is the best time of year to renovate a yard. If you just want to maintain grassy weeds until fall, we can help you do that, too. I still would not use that Canadagreen seed without knowing what is in it. The most important thing to know after that is where you live.