The last two fertilizers used were a 10-0-20 (or similar ratio) in the fall, and in the summer I think it was a 15-0-15 (or similar ratio). In early summer I used a slow release nitrogen. I never did add anything to adjust PH and was advised not to when the lawn was installed. (Actually, the only thing I was told was to water to establish and the lawn will take care of itself. Yes I knew that couldn't be true but it would be nice.) I have been watering twice a week during the growing season (Duration varies by zone, but the average would be about an hour. The problem with irrigation is that the zones cover the shrubs and flowers as well as the lawn, so the plants are beaten down by the sun during the summer and can't go as long as the lawn without water. I have to redo my drip irrigation to allow for separate watering, but a lightning strike took out my controllers and they need to be replaced.) Mowing height has been about two inches, but to be honest, the lawn did not grow very much last year. I just scarified the lawn this past weekend and got my soil sample to get tested. The one area shade is a factor is directly adjacent to the house on the northern side of the property. (I will likely have to fight with that area forever, but I am more concerned with the rest of the lawn.) Other than that there is enough daily sun. The areas that have mostly died out are actually in direct sun. Part of the problem is fungus, and part is from pests. I have noticed (last summer) browning of the leaf blades in the center of the front lawn where the grade has a bit of a low spot. I did use a systemic fungicide last year, but I think I will have to spot treat as well this year. Weeds have taken over in the worst areas. Dollar weed has returned to the same spots that had them in the past, Spurge has choked out the lawn a bit along the road and driveway, and I have greenbelt on all sides. I have a barrier of mulch along the rear portion of the yard, so the weeds are not as bad there. The pre-emergent from last year did little to stop the warm weather weeds, and since I did not use one for the winter, I am dealing with them now. My issue last year is that the weeds took over after the temps were well into the 90's and I couldn't treat them because I didn't want to do more harm to the lawn. As for pests, I have seen grubs, mole cricket tunnels, grass hoppers, spittle bugs, a few billbugs, and lets face it, its Florida, just about everything else! I use Talstar twice a year, and I am planning to treat for grubs a few times as well. The lawn has not started its green up yet. I'll try to get a picture on the next cloudy day.

Well, after some more research, I've made some progress on identifying the weeds, and figured I'd share... I'm almost positive #1 is Virginia Buttonweed I think #2 might be nutsedge. Can someone confirm that? As far as #3 goes, I think it is bermuda grass. But I think I actually have some bermuda and crabgrass, particularly where the lawn meets the street. And now begins the long process of trying to revive my lawn. My current plan is... 1. Try to control the weeds as best I can for now by spraying them with weed control for lawns and/or picking them by hand. Already started and it seems to be slowly killing the weeds and leaving the grass intact. 2. Come early-September, I'm going to fill in some depressed areas of the lawn with topsoil 3. Top dress the rest of the lawn with a thin layer of top soil. 4. Add some milorganite (unless someone has a better suggestion) 5. Seed entire yard with tall fescue, or maybe a mix of tall fescue and kentucky bluegrass 6. Water daily until grass starts to grow, then only twice a week for a few weeks, then only once a week. 7. Pray that tons of grass grows and chokes out the weeds 8. Come early spring, spread pre-emergent herbicide on the lawn Thoughts? This post was edited by ryanhaub on Sun, Aug 4, 13 at 0:40

>>Also I was watering once a day for about an hour then I was told by a friend that may be making it worse. It is making it worse--it encourages weeds, shallow roots, and disease. If you made me guess, I'd say that' a tri-mix lawn, or standard builder's grade. It actually looks very nice from a distance and entirely reasonable given the weather we've been having. Right now, the season for seeding is so close to ending that you can either treat for weeds or seed. There's no longer time enough for both. Personally? I'd wipe the weeds and evaluate at that point. You can dormant seed in December or January if you find you need to. For that, I'd use something like Weed B Gone with Oxalis, Chickweed, and Clover control. The second step here is feeding. It's time--the optimal feeding date for northern lawns is the week around Labor Day, again on October first, and a third time when growth ceases for the year but the grass is still green (Thanksgiving for me). The fourth yearly feeding goes around Memorial Day and no earlier as it'll tap carbohydrates from the roots if applied before that. Overall, mow at the highest setting you can stand for the longest lawn you can stand (mine is about 3"). That'll shade out weeds, encourage longer roots, and give you generally healthier grass. Your last mow of the year can be shorter to reduce snow mold problems, or leave it long if you don't spend a lot of time under snow cover.

i will try that.. may be i was just guessing with the amount of water it needs. There was another difference that i observed, in my backyard i never bagged clipping while moving and my backyard looks much better and more greener without any water at all(except rain water), whereas my front yard to make it look nice and clean i always bagged the clippings. Do you think bagging grass clipping can make this much difference? I'm going to do 2 changes now, not bag clippings , measure water and to spruce up the dull lawn i'm thinking of putting light layer of following organic fertilizer, it seems it can work in summer too and wont burn my lawn. Any thoughts ? Appreciate your time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBVCJ1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1