Thanks for all of the replies. Q: In three years your lawn will be so bumpy you can't mow the grass without scalping it. The perfect start would not have included rototilling. Just out of curiosity, who told you to rototill? Re tilling, after raking up all of the dead weeds from the glyphosphate, my local landscaper told me I needed to till up the ground before spreading the centipede seeds, then roll it flat afterwards to get good contact. The lawn is already flattened out, so I'm not worried about scalping. I was watering a little every other day, so I will back off and water more heavily, and less frequently. Thanks for the tip on letting the weeds dry out. Q: Why did you pick Centipede? Is your soil acidic? Every other yard in the subdivision (50+ homes) has centipede so I didn't want to be the one yard that sticks out over the winter, when everyone else has a brown yard. I sent my soil off to UGA and it came back with a PH of 5.6. I guess I'm going to keep mowing everything frequently, weeds and all until May, at which point I will attack the weeds first with some herbicides. I kind of expected a few seasons until the centipede matured, so no surprise there. I will think about reseeding a little in July, but centipede seed is so damn expensive that I wish I would have just sodded and not have to deal with all of this hassle (since I'm not saving much anyways). Thanks again for the comments all. I'm a long time lurker that gets a lot of advice from searching the posts in this forum, as I hope this one helps someone else in the future.

Well, I live in E. Central GA but sadly, I just have my three pots of VFTs, I could hardly be considered a CP grower...

Rosajoe, I did some searching on the web and this was the best information that I could find. In our area, our plants are threatened with frost and freezing temperatures. When this happens, outside Bromeliads will have to be protected. This can be done by covering them with plastic, a cold frame or a frost cloth. The downside to this is covering plants gets old after a while and you may not always be available to do it in time. In addition, and more importantly, with this method of protection, there will probably be some leaf damage. All Bromeliad lovers know that leaf damage really takes away from the beauty of the plant. The site's suggestion for those who want the plants outside in their landscapes, was this: (1) Plant the Bromeliads in pots; (2) Dig a hole in the desired area and plant the pots in the ground; (3) When there's a threat of frost or freezing temperatures, pull the pots out of the ground and place them in a garage or other protected area until the treat passes. This protected area should provide some light during the day. After the temps are above freezing with no more frost threats ahead, the Bromeliads can be returned to their in-ground spot outside. Mulch can be used to disguise the pot rims and give them a true, in-the-ground appearance. This summer, I'm going to plant one of my pups outside just to see how it goes. I hope this helps. I've also included the link to the, 'Growing Bromeliads Outdoors Overview' below (if it shows up). Hope this helps a little! Bon Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Bromeliads Outdoors Overview

Although it's not necessarily a beautiful specimen type shrub, I do love the fragrant tea olive. I have one growing in full sun, one that gets just morning sun, and one that gets afternoon sun. The scent that the tea olive puts out is divine. It is by far one of my favorites because of that wonderful scent. It does get tall though.