Thanks, all, but I am quite determined to limit myself to 24 plants. No volunteers this year, no extra seedlings, nothing. This should prove more than ample for 1.25 tomato eaters (me and SomeOne who likes 'a slice' on 'a sandwich' - incomprehensible) and I am much more interested in getting a handle on my festering cesspool of disease so that they are healthier. But no one seems to think I should sacrifice my variety for science - thanks for the enabling there! I'm going to be dizzy with 24 different varieties to taste and keep track of. Dave and smithmal, thanks for the suggestions on varieties to cut. You're right, Long Keeper is at the top of the list to go (was more prone to ordering novelties in my gardening youth 4 years ago). Anna I'm surprised to hear since I thought she was generally well regarded, but she hasn't ever done much for me compared to Cour Di Bue, so she can go. Delicious might have to stay in just because it was a freebie 4-5 years ago and I haven't ever grown it because it's always been high on the cut list. I don't store my seeds for longevity so I might be running out of time on that one. Lucky Cross I have grown before but I don't think it did well - I don't seem to have a recollection of it -so it might need to stay in to get properly evaluated. So between new varieties I want to try, freebies I really should try, and returning players who fill a specific position, I might be down to Sungold or possibly Jersey Giant for my last cut. I've grown and liked both, but haven't come even close to consuming the Sungolds other than for some snacks in the garden, so they just make a mess. Jersey Giant has a sweetness that I enjoy, but has been rather low production and I have all my other 'Jerseys'.

Rutgers - you should assume indeterminate as that is the most common form sold. The Opalka will need a big cage so will Sun Gold if you do it. Otherwise, of the ones you list, the Black Krim and the Early Girl will be the biggest plants IME although I haven't grown Early Girl for many many years. Celeb would be the next biggest. But I don't want to mis-lead you into thinking the others will be small or short plants because they won't be. Consider in investing in some better support systems if possible. Dave PS: if you are going to pitch plants then my choices would be to toss the Celebrity and the Early Girl. :)

I read one person actually liked to use the cheap hoop cages but upside down. They cut out the wires that normally go into the dirt and use it to fasten it to the ground on the large hoop. They said they where actually quite stable.

I use jute twine I thought I paid under $3 but here it is at https://www.walmart.com/ip/TWINE-JUTE-HD-NAT-190FT/19870337 Amazon, HD, and garden centers will also have it. I described it here but the link is below. <gumby_ct(CT it says Z5) I have been using the string method for quite a few yrs now, I wouldn't do it any other way now. I use jute twine - it ALWAYS lasted the entire season and can be composted. I used nylon and other synthetic products the 1st yr. - until I found out how time consuming it was to remove the string or wire twisted around a plant stem to save for next yr. Esp. if you till the garden soil. I can't imagine trying to have the roots grow into the string. What I do is wait until the plant has a couple branches then wrap the jute one complete wrap the main stem under a branch, doesn't matter where the stem/branch is located, really. The higher up the plant the less string you will need. The roots will hold it in the ground. So 1 complete wrap around the main stem then tie a loose knot - I can't esplain how to tie knots so pick whatever YOU know how to tie, it doesn't matter, really. It is the action of twisting the string around the plant as it grows that will hold it. So after you've tied the knot then twisted the string around the plant and between the next branch on the way up. I use a clockwise direction - do what you see fit just keep going in the same direction. So after you've got the knot and a couple twists around the plant - take the jute all the way up to the crossbeam, wrap then tie it with the knot of your choice. There that wasn't hard now was it? I was surprised to find that this string method held the tomato, cukes, watermelon, or whatever plant you want to trellis UP better than the cages and stakes I used esp. and during a hurricane while the plant is loaded with fruit. I was impressed. NOW, when you are out there watering, weeding, or just walking by and see a plant has grown, give it a twist or two around the string and the string will hold it up. Now there might be times esp. w/cukes or if you don't pinch off the suckers, you will need to run another string or two. I just pinch sucker with thumb & forefinger when I am out there. Cukes are esp. nice cuz once they get up off the ground they will grow nice n straight and are much easier to harvest. The hardest ones to find are the ones on the ground before the plant goes UP. IF you used just jute twine and no other plastic pieces or parts - you can just remove the plant and throw the whole thing into the compost or trash, if you want. HTH > http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/2192037/vertical-string-method