Do you mean something consistent with the principles of horticultural correctness, or something that works?

lol, whitecap. We have to do what works here in Texas!

It's too late this year, but this is what I have done (probably not consistent with the principles of horticultural correctness):

In February, when the weeds were just coming up, but the grass was dormant, I sprayed roundup all over. The weeds died, and just the grass was left. The grass is just now greening up - and I only have weeds left where I missed a spot or two.

It worked so well, I may do this again next year! But, hopefully, the grass will choke out the weeds if I keep it well mowed this year. Supposedly the grass will do this anyway, but that has not been the case for me.

What kind of grass do you have? I think if you keep it well fertilized and watered, the grass will choke out most weeds. Try a pr0gram like Scott's too, but be careful around your shrubs. Weed-n-feed will mess them up! I know it's not popular, but I'm a firm believer in better living through chemistry! Oh, I've also learned the hard way that annual blue grass likes for you to mow low, so don't do it! Mow high!

Whitecap, I just want something that works.

lynnmarie, I tried the fertilizer only route and the weeds loved it. I've got a little over an acre and can't afford to water. I do well to water the grass in the part of the backyard that we use.

I use the purple cap round-up, it has to be at least 70 degrees for it to work, and cannot rain the day you spray the weeds. I spray just alittle to touch the plant right at the top, and the round up takes about 7 days to kill the plant, whats so great, is that if you have nut grass, you only have to spray a few, it kills all of them thru the root system. This is the only way I can control weeds. Now for fertilizer I go organic, since I have 3 spoiled dogs. Barbra

So glad to see your response/solution. That gave me good ideas on how to selectively use RU.

My problem is the same as the original poster. I've resodded (St. Augustine) most of the front lawn. About 25% is burmuda/weeds. I'm truly hoping the two areas of St. Aug. will choke it all out. My backyard has struggling St. Aug. but I have a fish pond back there so I won't use any chemicals. I'm trying to get the soil better with compost so the grass will grow stronger.

Our pinched fingers... we pull them by hand and don't use poisons.

Since I mulch thickly with oak leaves (which my neighbors very nicely and conveniently rake up 'for me' and leave by the front curbs 'for me' to pick up) there's not a lot of weeds in the flower beds and hand pulling works for those few.

When something is needed to kill deep rooted weeds like baby hackberry and pecan trees a broad leaf weed killer is used. Just a couple of drops full strength on new leaves will kill the whole plant. Being a plant hormone it's less toxic than the non selective weed killer commonly used, but I'm still very careful not to get it on my skin since I'm very sensitive to chemical products.

You can also cut the stem of the plant you want to kill and put a drop on the cut area or stump and the roots will be killed. That way you can get rid of the part of the plant that shows by cutting it back and still kill the roots. Using the 'drop method' instead of spraying cuts down on the risk of getting a killing mist drift over to garden plants.

However, I'm going to mix up a little broad leaf spray to treat the little tree seeds that sprouted by the thousands this year in the gravel paths and the front area that is graveled. I just bought 32 ounces of 'Ortho Weed B Gone Max for Southern Lawns' at Lowe's for $8.00.

At this point with weeds and grass actively growing I'd think a selective broadleaf weed killer would work best for the lawn.

"Broadleaf weed killers are selective herbicides that work in lawns by targeting dicots [broad leaved plants] that are actively growing while not harming the monocots such as lawn grass. The most common broadleaf weed killer is 2,4-D also known as Trimec.

"2,4-D is an auxin or plant hormone that, when applied to the leaf area, simply confuses the plant to death. When auxin, the hormone that makes plants grow, is sprayed over the entire plant, the plant becomes deformed, then dies."

If you have grassy weeds in addition to broadleaf weeds you can get away with just spraying the center of the grassy weed (being careful not to get it on the good grass) with a selective grass killer like 'Grass B Gone. I did that on the winter grass next door and it worked great.

Here's a good article on many ways to eliminate weeds in lawns. Applying preemergents at the right time of year works great too. I think Oct and Feb were the times recommended for application in my city. If I'd been smart I would have sprinkled it on the gravel areas and not have the sprouted tree seeds that are there now.

Weeding is sure not the most fun part of gardening. That's for sure!

Here is a link that might be useful: How weed killers do their job ...