You have an easy to grow plant, but you need to guard against over-watering. If the leaves look wilted at 3 pm but perk up by 10 pm, it's a pretty sure indication you've over-watered and need to ease up on the hand that rocks the watering can. When you DO water, water thoroughly, so you flush the soil of accumulating salts, then tip the pot at a 45* angle after it stops draining and note how much more water exits the pot (a good thing). Note the difference in how much water exits pot A when it's tipped (see B). Just tipping the pot after you water will help you keep the soil from remaining wet too long, which is the reason for a very high % of plant issues. How you fertilize and when sort of depends on where you live (and we don't know that) and your watering habits/soil choice. Al

It seems that prayer plants are happiest when left alone, not moved, not in drafts, not too much sun, and out of the way of normal household traffic. In summary, they are picky. If the plant looks fine to you otherwise, then I would try not moving it around for a while and only pay attention to it when watering.

Matt - that one plant tolerates what's killing others in the same pot is something less than a reason to think it's appropriate. Your problem is likely a combination of soil choice and watering before the plant really needs watering. There ARE some things you can do with conventional containers to reduce water retention, but that's not a conventional container. Reducing water retention and a little less exuberance from the quarter of the plant tender would likely go a long way toward at least changing the pot/soil/watering habit combination from potentially deadly to something the plant will tolerate. You might find this helpful. Al

That your plant needs staking is clear indication it wants more light. Whether or not you can GIVE it more is the question. The visual symptoms of over-watering and under-watering are the same; this, because both result in the plant's inability to move enough water to the leaves. Both cause leaf abscission (shedding) and wilting. If your habit runs to watering while you can still detect moisture in the soil with your finger, you're over-watering. If your plant has dried down to the point of wilting, under-watering might be a player in the drooping because leaves of F elastica, once they've lost turgidity, are often unable to recover to their former spatial position. This would also explain why the newer leaves haven't developed a pendulous habit. Over-watering causes the same symptoms. I'd start monitoring moisture levels in the soil with a wood dowel rod, ends sharpened in a pencil sharpener. Stick it deep into the pot - if it comes out stained dark or wet, withhold water. Do flush the soil, as suggested, by pouring a volume of room temp water equal to at least 10X the volume of the pot it's in slowly through the soil. Fertilizer is important. Fertilize immediately after flushing the soil with an appropriate fertilizer. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is a very good choice as your 'go to' fertilizer for all your houseplants. One of the first symptoms or root congestion is lack of extension (lack of visible growth). I'd make a plan to repot next June, if you're in the northern hemisphere, hopefully into a medium that allows you to water correctly w/o worrying a prolonged period of soil saturation will limit root function and/or wreak havoc on root health. If you have concerns about the effects watering correctly might have on your plant, let me know and I'll help you mitigate any potential limitations. This is just me, but I would have pruned the plant several times to ensure it was self supporting. Shorter plants can't flex as much as a taller plant, so shortening the trunk is essentially a quick way to strengthen it. Al