Hi, welcome to the forum. Greenman's being too modest here, but he's right about what he said. The only bonsai that can be grown inside are basically tropicals - basically because under certain conditions there are a couple of subtropical species that can be tried if you know what you're doing, but conditions must be ideal. Maples won't grow indoors anywhere, anytime, so they're definitely out, as would be anything cold hardy. You're best to start with something like Ficus as there are many different ones available all over and care is fairly straightforward, though not without problems as even experienced growers find with any species in given situations. Remember that the majority of trees are not grown 'up' to be little bonsai and then magically switched off to stay that size, but are cut back from larger trees (not as "cuttings", but as 'chops') allowing smaller new branches to grow (how and when matter for each type) on the fattest trunk achievable - except in the case of a couple of styles - which give the illusion of age by their proportion to each other. "Growing out" trees in the ground is the fastest way to get those trunks, but not practical for tropicals anywhere but in tropical climates, so large containers of various kinds ('training pots or boxes') are used vs little designer pots that keep trees from doing anything more than minimum growth, and which require roots and branches to be pruned to fit pots (which should really only be used once trees are developed and styled over time). Look at www.bonsaihunk.us/cultural.html for lots of great advice on indoor growing (and particularly Ficus), plus www.bonsai4me.com, plus try to find a local club, which is usually a great way to learn as you can watch how things are done on the spot. Whatever you do, never go by attached tags on plants for care, as they are usually so general (and often actually wrong) as to be meaningless for individual plants and take no account of particular environments. Do be prepared to spend on basics up front, like 4' fluorescent, 2 bulb fixtures with full spectrum lights. Don't waste time misting things as it... wastes time, but do use humidity trays, ones that span the width of trees' growth, holding stones and water, as long as you keep the water below the stones so pots don't wick it up and rot roots. Learn first, spend later and enjoy the ride :0)!

"....after more than 6 months I found a bill." What was the date of the bill...and the date of service? Recent bill or has it been sitting around a while? "What is this company...." Umm....doesn't the bill say who they are? How would any of us know? "....they ignored me." Kinda hard to do if you want to get paid. Did you ask for explanation/itemization? In any event, given your concern, write them with your questions and keep a copy for yourself. I don't pay bills when I don't know what they are. You shouldn't either.

Granite is usually resined to protect it. If there's a particular stone you like, take home a sample and test it, not just with water but with other typical kitchen stains (I used olive oil, lemon juice, chocolate sauce, ketchup, and cut tomatoes). You won't be able to keep water off granite entirely, but you should have no trouble in finding granite that won't get water stains. It's a rock, not a silk dress.

I have pavers with no sand problem and I like them a *lot*...much more than concrete and there wasn't a great price differential...Shop around pricing-wise. I purchased the pavers at Ackerstone in Corona (just north of Riverside, if I'm not mistaken)where they sell overruns to the public at greatly reduced rates on Friday morings (other than that, they only sell to contractors). I had my landscaper install them. I ended up sealing them a year after they were installed. I didn't have sand problems either before or after they were sealed. My only regret is that I should have gone with a lighter color as they get hot (less so than similarly-colored concrete, but more than my light cantera coping).