Regarding the plastic: I had done some research on various plastic mulches, and found that some great studies had been done on white, clear, and black plastic mulches (interesting that I found that when I was trying to research the red mulch which supposedly makes tomatoes increase in yields and sweetness... sounds like the jury's still hung on that one; I guess the sunlight has to reflect OFF the red to be effective, and in some growing situations, not much sunlight hits the mulch, thereby negating any positive effect. But I digress...) The research found that black plastic mulches will warm the soil a couple degrees at 2" down, and not quite as much 4-6" down (black captures heat), and white didn't heat the soil much (white reflects most light), but what surprised me was the clear plastic. What they found was that certain wavelengths of light were allowed to enter via infrared, but wouldn't reflect back out. The soil with the clear plastic mulch was crazy--it was something like 10-14 degrees WARMER than non-mulched soil at 2" and 4-6 degrees warmer at 6 inches. I wish I had bookmarked that site, but you could probably find it if you googled "plasticulture." Anyway, I think this is going to be my technique for killing weeds and weed seeds/seedlings in the spring. I have a terrible bindweed problem, and those suckers just will not die (invasive roots can go to 60 FEET), which of course means WAR! I can put down the clear plastic over the rock beds (wet them first so the steam can build) and cover them with clear plastic. Sorry to get off-topic on your original question, but it kinda turned into a plastic mulch thread... Anyway, put the plastic down now; the sun can do much of the work even if the nights are cold, and the plastic will help keep the heat in at night. If you're going to continue to use plastic mulch after the plants are in-ground, you can use the research to apply the proper mulch for the various plants: peas like cooler soil (white), but tomatoes like it kinda warm (black), while okra likes it HOT (clear). Also good to know if a gardener is in the south--you just might inadvertently cook the roots of some of your plants if clear plastic is used! Regarding your original question, I found a package of small-diameter bamboo sticks--painted green, no less--at Walmart for like 3 bucks for about 20 of them. They're great for stabilizing tomatoes until you're able to cage them; just be careful what you use to tie the vines because if it doesn't have some give and take, it might just become a noose. Favorite cheapies are strips of old nylons--they give but are also sturdy enough to do the trick (I have alson been known to use a recently pulled strand of bindweed as a tie!). I expect we may yet have some more frosty nights here in CO, so I bamboo-"staked" my tomatoes in their gallon pots just today because they're getting whipped around in the wind. They're out all day, just like yours, and then into the garage each night unless it's going to be over 45--the garage stays warm enough, especially since there's no wind in there! Too much cold can stunt the growth--especially if you already have flowers, the fruit might not set, so don't rush it. Regarding the pollinating of the flowers--the plants are outside all day, so it's a fair shot that some of the bumbles are buzzing! Maybe pinch off half or 2/3 of the blooms--that way you'll still get some early fruit, but the plants won't be wearing themselves out trying to grow more roots and lots of fruit at the same time. Do a GW search for "hardening off" to get a better idea of how to prepare them for being in the ground. There's some great stuff out there. I'm kinda jealous, though; I waited so long that my indoor starts are puny (the ones I staked are from a swap!). Way to make sure that you've got some good plants ready to go! (and can I get on Santa's list for a greenhouse, too?)

Paula, I wouldn't do it. I can't find an upside here. Since they have had no exposure to direct sunlight or wind, exposure to either one of those could potentially kill them. They haven't been hardened off to outdoor conditions, so they can't tolerate a whole day outside. If you put them in a VERY sheltered place on the porch where they'd only get maybe 1 hour of direct sunlight and would be shaded after that, which is what they'd need, then how is one hour of direct sunlight followed by total and complete shade better for them than a full day under lights? I don't think it is. Tomorrow is supposed to be a windy day, with brutal wind gusts at times. Plants that haven't been hardened off couldn't tolerate a full day of strong wind, and the winds will be out of the south early in the day, so your south-facing porch would expose them to the wind. Even if you had a cold frame, and they were in the cold frame, I think they'd get more heat and light than they could handle even if they were completely protected from the wind, and since they could have only brief sunlight exposure without sunburning, they'd be getting less light on the porch than if they were inside under lights. I don't see this working out well. My heartfelt advice is to chill, relax and let them grow a little more inside. They'll be fine. Before you can put those babies outside, you have to do everything in the proper order. They have to be hardened off in the standard way before they can tolerate an all-day exposure to The Great Outdoors and there are no shortcuts. Tomorrow is a day when high temperatures, low humidities and strong winds are expected. That's a lethal combination for plants that are not already well-hardened to outdoor temperatures. I'd put them outside for an hour on Saturday, or maybe even an hour-and-a-half and then back inside under lights. If they tolerate that well, then on Sunday, I'll put them out for 2 or 3 hours. After that, if you can block the wind, I think you could leave them outside on the front porch while at work next week if you could situate them so they have good wind protection and only a half-day of sun, preferably morning sun. Dawn

I am using Sunshine 4 :) I've tried spritzing them lightly as they were quite dry (the "helmet head parts). Some have already shed the coating. :)

I would never use peat pellets to start plants. I think you would have been much better off using a seed starting mix. Once they are large enough to transplant, you can move them to a container with potting soil, and fertilize if the soil doesn't already contain it. I grow tomatoes covered with a dome until I have germination, but as soon as I see green, I remove the dome and place the flat under lights for around 14-16 hours a day. The lights need to be very close. You can use a regular shop light, with a regular bulb, and place the plants about 2 inches from the light source. Nothing beats sunlight, so as soon as weather permits, they need to be moved outside, but you must do it slowly for about an hour at first, then gradually increasing outdoor time. I live in Zone 6 and normally start tomato plants around the 20 of February, but I think I started a few days early this year because of the warm weather. Most of mine have been in the ground or in containers for some time now, and range in size from 1 foot to 2-1/2 feet tall, and most are blooming. Don't give up on yours, but re-pot and fertilize and let them get a few inches taller, then put them outside. Just keep reading about how others do it and you will find a way that will work for you.