I need to buy soil
franksmom_2010
12 years ago
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melvalena
12 years agofranksmom_2010
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Compost only for large raised vegetable bed?
Comments (3)This is a handful of a soil I built for my raised beds. It is 5 years old in the photo. It's a mix of pine bark, sphagnum peat, Turface, and sand. You could easily build a similar soil. It is full of soil creatures & is a very rich and productive soil. If you use only compost, you'll get lots of soil shrinkage. I would use compost and pine bark in equal amounts to make up 2/3 of the soil. For the remaining 1/3, I would use equal amounts of peat and a mineral component. Turface, lava rock, or Haydite would be an excellent choice to go with the peat. You'll need lots of N and a source of micro-nutrients for the first year. I've had to use no fertilizer supplements at all from the second year on, and plant growth in this soil is even better than in the soil in my gardens. Al...See MoreFescue vs. Kentucky Bluegrass
Comments (8)Since you mention the use of Kentucky Blue I'm going to assume you wish to use a 'cool season' type grass. Generally, if a type of lawn turf has problems....i.e. turns brown when water is at a premium, or tends to die out during heat spells, or some other problem that is perplexing a homeowner....the usual advice is to try to overcome the problem by planting a seed that is not affected by what troubles the one type....so, and I'm sure the seed dealer will agree, plant a combination of grass seeds so that each can give its best when times are tough on one. A good combination for cool season type grass is 40% Kentucky Blue, 30% perennial ryegrass and 30% red fescue. Combinations approaching those percentages are found anywhere and everywhere so you shouldn't have any trouble finding. Its generally agreed that before you overseed an area that has already a lawn, correct any imperfections the ground might have...i.e. fill in with topsoil any depressions, any mounds that can be rolled and thus levelled, any bare patches that are best fixed with plugs....etc etc. A toplayering of 1/2" to 1" topsoil or compost or triple mix...you decide...is laid either before, or after the scattering of the seed. Sometimes seed is administered with the fertilizer spreader...a starter fertilizer can be considered and applied with the seed. Scattering by hand is easy as long as you apply a generous amount to the area. Seed is not inexpensive....but for a good turf it is recommended that you apply the best seed you can afford...it pays dividends in the end. If you are having to buy the topsoil...and your area is large...you can trust this formulae to find out exactly how much soil you would have to purchase. If the amount is large, then buying IN BULK is the least expensive. Measure the area you intend to work...length times width... IN FEET. That gives you square feet...multiply that times the depth IN INCHES....then multiply that figure times 3....and divide by 1000. That results in the number of cubic yards of soil you have to buy to cover the area. example...if the area is 25 feet by 50 ft..equals 1250 sq ft times depth..1" = 1250 X 3 = 3750 divided by 1000 =- 3.75 cubic yards of soil. Such amount is best bought in bulk...delivered by truck to your driveway--then by wheelbarrow to the area. If the area is wanted to be leveled first, then rolling can be done. Rolling can also be done AFTER the seeding process to better put the seed into contact with the soil. Overseeding is ..for me anyway...a ritual I follow every fall. It encourages strong turf that stands up to adversity...disease and pests. Generally, if you follow a regimen of fertilizing...the high nitrogen content can speed up filling in bare spots and greening up. Going cheap on the feeding program encourages weak growth...and if winter throws a hard freeze early, it can make for spring problems. Watering is also not cheap. But again watering is necessary for the grass roots to grow strong...so the usual recommendation of 1" of water (rain notwithstanding) per week is the norm and helps grass grow lushly. Only by experimenting with how you apply water can you learn about what your lawn needs....See Morenewbie in this forum...growing peppers but black spots on leaves?
Comments (7)I am sorry I should have specified what I am using... I am growing these in a fabric pot and I am using a commercial potting soil mixed with desert sand (it is red and they call it Sweet Sand here), and compost. I did not scoop up soil from the garden :) The website for these fabric pots (Smart Pots) says it is ok to use a heavier mix because moisture evaporates more than a plastic container would. I don't know if it makes a difference but I am using the same mix to grow tomatoes, zucchini, eggplants, and cucumbers and the tomatoes and zucchini are doing well (all are in Smart Pots as well)... the other ones are still young but seem to be doing fine so far. Lets see... just in case it makes a difference... the weather temperatures are a little bit erratic... the highs have been in the upper 70s to mid-80s and the lows have been from the lower 60s up to the mid 70s....See MoreIf buying MG potting soil, bring a calculator!
Comments (40)I see this thread is now 6 years old, but wanted to add a bit. I just started using the MG soil, purchasing it at BJ's. Regular price was $11.99, it was on sale for a week or so in mid to late May, $9.99. Sale only lasted a week, so one needs to keep their eyes open. As the original poster stated, it gets very confusing with different amounts in different sized bags. Most places were selling a 1 cubic foot bag for $8.99 in 2014. Big bags are most definitely worth it....See Morelou_texas
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