Goats or sheep might be a really good idea to come in after the mature invasives are cut or removed because seeds will sprout for years. That would be a riot to have a herd in the backyard. Can't imagine what the neighbors would think! But I've got to deal with the mature plants ASAP as they are just going to keep on making zillions more seeds. I've been clearing invasives from the front and side gardens for 3 years, and been pondering what to do about the real infestation in back for a year or two. It seemed like a particularly good time to do it seeing as how the invasives have been weakened by drought, particularly the Glossy Buckthorn (Frangula alnus) which prefers a more wet habitat and is really stressed. We've had 2 inches of rain in 10 weeks, which is quite unusual for where I live. Glad, your Wisteria problem sounds terrible, but your property sounds lovely! I agree that the dead trees, and branches and miscellaneous are all part of the beauty of a forest or woodland. I love my snags and plan to grow native vines up them that make berries for the birds. I know what it's like to deal with a real infestation of an invasive that somebody planted long before you got there. Believe it or not the lady that lived here and the neighbor (who still lives next door) planted stuff like Oriental bittersweet because they liked the berries. I have to admit Wisteria Flowers are gorgeous! But good luck with your battle to get rid of it.

OMG a Japanese honeysuckle post. It was past time for one to pop up. The property I had before I moved here had a small army of it moving in stealth, I swear in the dead of moonless nights, toward my house.............it consumed a small orchard of fruit trees and was starting to invade the horse corral. That was when I pulled out the old WWII machete and learned how to use it. It was an on-going battle just to get it down enough I could address eradication. I sold the property twenty six years ago, and drive by it once every few years to see if the house is consumed in it yet. Disappointed Hortser didn't mention crownvetch, multi-flora rose, escaped grape vines, Japanese polygonum, Russian olive and/or passiflora incarnata and campsis radicans. I did see a small cottage devoured by that one.

What "certification" is there for soil testing labs? Some state universities do "certify" labs for the residents of those particular states to use for soil testing but that has little to do with the labs ability to test. If Massachusetts were to "certify" soil testing labs it would be the University of Massachusetts that would do that. Using UMASS for the soil test for soil pH, Phosphorus, Potash, Calcium, Magnesium, etc. will allow jwhittin the opportunity to talk with his county horticulturist about the test results, something Logan Labs does not provide. In addition to those soil tests jwhittin may want to use these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to learn more about the soil.

LOL..I had experience at my old house digging up 4 oclocks. I think I got a 4'root that was shaped like fat legs of a man. I had three huge plants like that and a multitude of babies. I kept at it and finally succeeded. There are some nice native 4 o'clocks that are better behaved. I am sitting here wondering about Salvia chiquita. It is new in the trade (8 years or so) and in my yard, I am starting to think it is enterely TOO Happy. THousands of seedlings this year.Years ago, I was unaware of the invasive list when I planted ruella ( maybe it was not on it yet) at my old house and same with the tahitian bridal veil. they both took over good. I whish I had known that there was a list to get information from 30 years ago. I think I would have made some different decisions. I sold that house. I weeded it to peices before I left but I went back and yes it is back.I am a lot more careful now. I am taking the salvia to a plant swap with warnings to keep an eye on it. It is not on the list, but is it only a matter of time I am afraid. Maybe people in clay will have a different experience. I backed the salvia off away from the slope...Same with the Roman Chamomile. I am looking sideways at both now and feeling maybe this is the year that I start yanking. I googled for info on the net and I have not seen the salvia mentioned. I do know that California has problems with some invasive salvias. They have the wet winter dry summer rythm. It seeds out in dry winters and wet winters, just a lot more on wet winters. If there is someone out there that has experience with this in the central Texas canyon land area and has some thoughts about the seeding habits of these plants.