Obviously, we don't need worm castings from the POV of soil structure, because they are very fine and reduce aeration/drainage. Micro-organisms in container media aren't necessary for healthy plants, and their populations are notably influenced by other cultural factors to the point where they are often boom or bust. So, lets look at them from a nutritional POV, and leave lots of room for any discussions that might not agree with what I say. I think it would be a good idea to first define what our goal is when we provide supplemental nutrition to our plants. I've thought about that, and this is what I came up with and saved for use in conversations like this: Whenever we discuss what is or isn't an appropriate part of the methodology we use to make certain our containerized plants get all the nutrients essential to growth and good health, we would probably first want to be sure our objectives are on target. It's difficult to argue with the idea that our focus in supplying supplemental nutrition to our plants should be on ensuring all the nutrients plants normally assimilate from the soil are A) IN the soil and available for uptake at all times, B) in the soil in a favorable ratio - that is to say in a ratio that mimics the ratio at which the plant actually uses the nutrient, C) at a concentration high enough to ensure no nutritional deficiencies, yet still low enough to ensure the plant's ability to take up water, and the nutrients dissolved in that water won't be impeded (by a high concentration of solubles in the soil solution). At this point, you (used collectively) can accept these premises as worthy goals or argue against them. If accepted, we should then necessarily examine our efforts at supplementation in the light of whether or not our efforts bring us closer to or limit our ability to see the goals implemented. YMMV, but I'd be interested in how to improve on what I said. What's in worm castings? What nutrients? The fact is, we don't know. We have no idea what they supply, or how much of any particular nutrient they supply. Their contribution to any increases in soil biota populations would only serve to break down the soil faster than it would normally break down w/o them. How then, do we know if we are limiting our ability to reach our goal. We need control over what we supply, and plants are best served when the ratio of nutrients in the soil are matched as closely as possible to the ratio at which plants actually use those nutrients. IOW, WCs don't supply anything you can't get from a well-made fertilizer that provides all the essential nutrients in a favorable ratio. The fact is, in light of the goal, they have as much or more potential to be limiting than beneficial. Changing topics ....... I think if you rearrange your thinking about your starting point for building a better soil so it's more like: Start with a ______ (fill in the blank with a coarse material or materials that ensure you can actually amend what you start with). If you start with potting soil, how can you amend it? You'll need to add well over 50% of other coarse materials (like pine bark) to get it to a point where you can water correctly. If you have more than 50% bark, didn't you actually 'start' with bark; or, maybe the better question is, wouldn't it then be a bark-based soil instead of a soil based on whatever potting mix you're using as the filler? I suggested a goal for nutritional supplementation, so how about a goal for the quality of your soil? From my perspective, an appropriate medium is a medium that allows us to water to beyond the point of saturation, at will, so we're flushing the dissolved solids (salts) that are present in tapwater and fertilizer solutions; this, w/o the plant having to pay the penalty of reduced root function, or perhaps wrecked root health, due to those prolonged periods of soil saturation after watering correctly. All the dissolved solids in tapwater and fertilizer solutions are left behind and accumulate in soils whenever we're forced to water in sips, which is commonly employed as a strategy to help avoid the sogginess that limits root function and wrecks root health. It's important to realize that a healthy plant is not possible w/o a healthy root system. If you have established goals that include healthy and attractive plants, it's critical that you have a plan to avoid the limitations imposed by over-watering and an accumulation of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution. Not every grower fully understands the dilemmic issues associated with inappropriate soils that force the plant to pay a vitality tax resultant of an unhealthy amount of water being retained for extended periods when we water correctly – which is to say, when we flush the soil to limit salt build-up. On one hand, we have the potential for over-watering, and when we act to avoid it by offering dribs and drabs of water here and there, we have high salt levels to deal with. It's easy to see how we all might benefit from use of a soil that allows us to water so we're flushing away excess salts without limiting our plant's vitality via waterlogged soils. You can see that getting to the point where you can water correctly w/o problems is a worthy goal. I should also say, there are ways to get you to that point w/o a lot of difficulty, just by employing some simple methods/arrangements that force excess water from the soil. Al

Earthworms are a relatively common occurrence in houseplants which have been given summer vacations outside. It is also very possible that eggs (also known as cocoons) were in with the castings. They would be easy to miss. This is not an ideal time to be repotting your plants. I'd give the pots a good soaking. Place the plants in a container that will allow you to fill with a few inches of water while you drench your plant. You want the entire soil volume to become totally saturated. Then, empty the water vessel and let the plant sit overnight. I'll wager that you'll find some captured worms in the morning. If you post this same question in the Houseplant Forum, you'll get lots of other suggestions, too. It comes up fairly often over there, especially at this time of year.

I wouldn't start a bin in a pail with 50 worms. I think larger bins are easier to manage with regard to moisture, food, etc. Leave them where are and they will multiply. It's only a couple of months for you. Be patient and you will soon have lots of worms to divide up and start mew bins. Cheers, Marshall

You're Welcome jaytea. I've stopped using chemical fertilizers in my house plants and garden last year. The VC produces much better results IMHO. Last summer I also added a few worms to my potted plants outside. The pots are about 2 feet in diameter at the top and about the same in height. Rather than filling the pots with soil (which make them very heavy), I filled them 3/4 full wth shredded leaves and 1/4 garden soil (much lighter). The worms and plants (Canna) thrived over the summer and by fall most of the leaves in the pot were gone. My neighbors were surprised at how tall the Canna were (over 7 feet tall). Having said that, I'm convinced that VC is much more benefial than chemical fertilizers and any worms in my houseplants are a bonus. mataka4