I cut the fronts off the bags and parts of the bottom (though mostly I couldn't get to the bottom without upsetting everything). The soil was evenly moist all the way through, so I think that answers the drainage question. But there were two places which looked a bit root-bound. Which means they are probably root-bound in the places I can't see as well. It's not super bad, but that might be part of the problem. Kind of a bummer. I didn't have root issues when I grew them in a container this size before (which is why I thought it would work), but I forgot to take into account that they were not planted so closely (I think they were more like 4 inches apart in that container). I hope opening up the bags helps. =P

I have similar problems with my greenhouse grown cukes. One year I did call Extension Service and was told to feed with two things. One I'm pretty sure was bone meal. Whatever combo it was worked. I have never been able to remember the other and when I called Ext. Serv. again no one knew what to tell me. And of course, I couldn't remember who I talked to. (There is no Ext. Serv. where I live, so I've never gotten acquainted!) I would surely like to find out what that other thing was!

Pip, didn't see your post, sorry. But, know that it's not a "3-in-1" grafted tree. What he has are three rooted cuttings stuck into one pot. Three completely separate trees growing in one pot, one of which is very vigorous and will crowd out the other two and eventually kill them (so, I guess it will probably end up with your recommendation, if punky tries to continue to grow 3 trees in one pot). No need to kill anything. Punky really should remove two of the cuttings and re-pot them in their own pots. And, what Kippy said. It really is a very perfect example of "you get what you pay for". These are cuttings of more ornamental types of citrus trees, which is fine if that's what you want - a pretty plant that is rather high-maintenance inside, and produces pretty, but either inedible or marginal fruits. And, punky, again, Kippy has given you some good advice - don't shoot the messengers you asked us about these cultivars we've told you what they are, where to go to find out more about them, and what we, as experienced citrus growers would do. It is entirely up to you as to what you wish to do with your 3 cuttings. Wishing you well, whatever it is you decide. Patty S.

Water uptake and therefore nutrient uptake is energy driven, i.e. it takes energy to absorb water and nutrients, and the roots need oxygen to turn the carbs the plant makes (its food) into energy - just like you do. When your plants wilt while the soil is still damp and the problem persists more than a day or 2, you can be almost 100% certain it's a root problem - probably related to excess water retention and the dearth of oxygen that comes along with it. Roots are opportunists - they don't/can't "go looking" for water, air, and nutrients, they simply grow where conditions are favorable ...... and don't grow where they aren't. In your case, the roots are probably growing deeper into the pot when the water supply is at its lowest, then dying back again when you water. The cycle of death and regeneration of roots not only impairs root function, it's very expensive in terms of energy outlay as well. What it takes to regenerate roots killed by a lack of air might have been spent on things more productive - like an increase in plant mass, blooms, fruit ...... Your soil choice has a very significant impact on how easy/difficult success is going to be, and on how wide the margin for grower error is. My take on what constitutes a good soil, at a minimum, is one you can water to beyond the point of saturation, i.e. until at least 15-20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain, carrying accumulating salts with it, this, without the grower having to worry about root rot or impaired root function. In most cases, the inability to water correctly also prevents you from being able to institute a nutritional supplementation plan that works well because nutrient ratios quickly become skewed if you can't hit the 'reset button' by flushing the soil regularly. Dennis is right about tight little root balls, too. If I get sets that have congested roots, I rip the bottom half of the roots off the plant and use as nylon pick to tease the remaining roots apart before the set gets planted. I also remove the lower leaves of the sets and plant very deep if in a pot, and deep and at about a 30* angle if they get planted in the ground. Often, roots allowed to remain in a tight little wad end up staying in a tight little wad with the plant suffering for it, and that's something you want to avoid. Roughing up the roots actually sends chemical messengers to the rest of the plant, telling it it needs to direct energy to the root mass. Plus, the closer roots are trimmed to the stem, the more juvenile and vigorous they are (look up 'ontogenetic age'), so make sure the roots are going to be able to easily colonize your soil mass by correcting congestion before planting and using an appropriate soil. Al