Here are my answers based on my own experience and exposure to the product (Rion Prestige). *WARNING* This is long :) 1. Foundation. Can you describe the included base? The base is made of a black plastic/resin material that has one side completely open. Imagine this text bracket: [ except the top and bottom pieces extend a bit longer. When fully assembled, the open side faces the inside of the GH. The idea is that if you plan to bury (or fill in) the base with gravel or soil, the shape of the base will allow it to grasp the soil/gravel and give it stability. If you plan to use wood beams for the base, then you really dont need to use the optional base kit that comes with the Rion. In most cases, your own custom wood beam base would be sturdier (and more level) than Rion's base kit. Just anchor the GH straight to your wood beams. 2. You said to be careful in placing the side louvers - how should I decide where to place them for maximal cross ventilation? Also, did you add a vent (it looks like you did from the picture)? What's a HAF? The Rion Prestige kit I bought included 3 windows and 3 roof vents. There are several greenhouse design books that deal with the window/vent placements in more detail - the $20-$30 spent investing in those books will be well worth it :). The placement of your windows and vents will largely depend on your sun exposure, prevailing winds, etc. For the "basic" ventilation layout, you will want all your intake ports (windows) placed on the "cooler" side of the structure. And then place all the exhaust ports (roof vents, exhaust fan, etc) on the opposite side of the intake ports. Again, consider the prevailing winds when designing the location of the windows. You want the wind to aid the ventilation, not hamper it - So facing an exhaust fan against the prevailing winds would reduce its efficiency. In some cases, you may want all the intake windows to face the prevailing winds to take advantage of the air movement provided for free. Here's a suggestion: Stick a few pieces of wood or plastic rods into the ground surrounding the planned greenhouse site. Space them about 5 feet apart and attach lightweight strips of plastic or paper on the top. These strips should be about the height of your GH windows (between 3 to 5 feet high). For several days, observe how the strips move. This should give you an idea of how the wind works in that area for that time of year. Wind flow could vary from season to season though, so determine which season you will need the best possible airflow (usually summer) and face the windows accordingly. HAF stands for Horizontal Air Flow (or Horizontal Airflow Fans). These fans are used inside the GH to keep the air moving. Stagnant air is a big No-No inside a GH. 3. Is the solar light at all useful? Yes. It is serving me well inside my garage :) Seriously, these lights are nice but I think they were designed just for the 6x6 greenhouse or smaller. They cannot possibly provide enough illumination to work properly at night. If you need "real" working lights for the GH then you should plan on setting up an electrical outlet where you can plug in any electric light bulb of your choice. You will most likely need an electric outlet installed for the fans anyway. *CAUTION ABOUT ELECTRICAL OUTLETS* Make sure that you locate your electrical service outlets in a section of the GH that will not get any water from your sprinklers/misters/garden hose, etc. If at all possible, dedicate a section of your GH as the "Dry Area". This is usually near the front door for convenience. This sacrifices planting space, but ensures that you do not have water and electricity getting in contact with each other. My "dry area" also contains the potting bench and supplies storage shelves so it works out well for me. I have a little nook in the GH that stays dry all the time. "I dare you to unplug that fan with wet feet" :) 4. Is your shade cloth aluminet (sp?)? No, but I have one ordered and awaiting delivery :) Right now I am using generic shade fabric from Lowes. 5. do the auto openers work well? Ahh, the auto-opener pistons... hmmm. What can I say, it has been hit or miss from what I have read on the forums. I have not had any problems (yet) but a couple of members here actually had to call Rion to get replacements because they got defective units. ** did you have to cut a hole in the shade cloth? I did cut squares around the roof vents (and windows). This allows the roof vents to operate without any interference from the shade cloth. ** is there ample room to hang plants? The Rion's roofline is a bit too low to effectively hang anything from the central brace. Unless you are planning on hanging small, light baskets, you would be limited to hanging them closer to the sides so that you have room in the middle to walk across the GH interior. Also, I personally do not like to hang anything from the GH brace itself. I'm just not so sure if the GH can hold all the weight (despite manufacturer's claims). I would err on the side of caution. I hope that you found this information helpful :) ~John

I agree with weissman, the Convection MW will serve you like another oven. Since you entertain a lot & especially at holidays keep the warming drawer. We have been in our remodeled kitchen now for a month & the warming drawer is our favorite applicance. We are beginning to wonder how we lived without it. If we grill we place the food (either grilled food, or things coming off the stove) in it. For Saturday pancake breakfasts, its great for keeping pancakes & bacon warm & getting to the table simultaneously. Every family plans on the children eating everything the adults eat, but we still (9 & 10 years old) have a few different tastes. Now I can cook something, place in the WD & I don't have to partially warm in the MW, then rewarm just before placing on table.

toddao...yes...the Jandy automation system can control 24VAC irrigation solenoid valves..no problem. We use our Jandy P8 to do this as well as control our outdoor lights. Agree with the automation guy...integrating pool control into home automation systems can get tricky. The pool automation systems have features and capability to control both 24VAC and 24VDC components as well as lockout, delay, priority and other safety features that protect your pumps, heaters and other components that are normally installed on pools. Not programming a home automation system correctly could result in an expensive failure of a pump, heater or other components as a result. Not sure what type of home automation system you anticipate using. If it can control IP addressable components, then you may want to look at a pool automation system that is IP addressable with the purchase of proper hardware such as one offered by Pentair. This would allow you to access the pool automation system via your home automation system and allow integration that way. This hardware addition also allows your pool automation system to be controlled via iphone, ipad, itouch, or internet enabled computers. Other pool automation systems may also have this IP hardware feature. If you looking at pool automation systems from other manufacturers, you may want to ask them if they have this IP capability also. It may be worth mentioning this to your automation guy to get his opinion and help with your decisions. Hope this helps.

Sadie, It must feel good! My HB kitchen/LR/powder room remodel is about 90% done. When finished, I will post pictures. The fireplace surround still needs concrete and steel pieces to complete it. The powder room still needs the faucet/lights/toilet etc. I have a very customized desk area. My husband is a guy who does not really have a lot of design sense. Even he is over the top with the result. I think that is saying alot. Over the years, I have converted him to a lover of minimalistic design. We worked without an architect and my husband is the GC on this project. I thought that the designer was going to have a heart attack at first. But when she realized that we knew what we were doing (learning by trial and error from previous expensive remodels WITH GCs that were useless....), things moved along. Because of the customization and our peculiar shape of the room, the measurements were very detailed and exact, as you mentioned.... I strongly suggest that you go with the installer that they recommend. They vet/train the installers so it's done right. If the reveals are messed up, then the look is completely ruined. For example, my countertop guy wanted to overhang it by 1 inch, ie standard overhang for a traditional looking kitchen. I say absolutely NO. (that was our job since we did not have a GC or architect!) You must follow the detailed "spec"... If you get an installer that does what he/she wants to do and not follow the spec, then the look will be ruined! If the installer is not sure how it should be done, then he/she has to spend the time to check with the designer for every little detail which are quite different from more traditional looking cabinets. I worked with the head designer in Seattle, who really designed HB product line and the Viola Park line. She is amazingly good! The build quality is amazing. Every trade person that has come in has remarked on the buld quality of these cabinets. I wish you the best with your construction. Mold remediation.. Yikes!