As far as the drooping branches are concerned, you can tie them up and in with inobtrusive twine. Just tie them to other strong branches on the interior of the shrub. Depending on the type of arborvitae and its eventual mature size, I would selectively remove the offending branches. As long as you don't trim back into dead wood, you're fine. If you cut back too far, you'll be left with a bare spot that will not regrow, though, so use care. If the shrubs are always going to be too big (WAY too big), you'll eventually have to remove them. Sooner is easier than later. Otherwise, I would try to work with them. It's cheaper and they're already a nice screening size. (Fast growing sometimes means a shrub that will get huge again, or a shrub that will have weak wood.)

in my MI ... IMHO .. the damage happens in winter.. freeze drying winds or sunny winter days thawing otherwise frozen needles ..... on perhaps.. previously damaged parts ... BUT ... being evergreen.. and cold as heck ... the EVERgreen ... doesnt brown ... until the temps start going up in spring .... when the damaged part starts drying ... i have had conifers ... look just fine all winter ... nice and green .. and then just completely brown out.. did it die in winter... or spring.. who knows ... better tom???? these seem to have some sporadic damage .. it is NOT indicative of over all problems .... give them some time.. then prune out the dead stuff ... if the whole thing was going brown.. or off color.. THEN i would worry ... ken

Whoo boy! Wouldn't you just know it-long time readers here that I, wisconsitom, would happen upon this latest offering about fertilizer spikes! Nick, we're going to take this apart first, then see if there's anything left to put back together: So I'll start right out by saying fertilizer spikes are a ridiculous product. I am almost beyond comprehension that these bogus items are still being made and sold, So let's think about a plant's root system once: First, roots go wherever they are able to colonize new soil with relative ease. That is, they tend to take the path of least resistance. Then too, they rummage all over the place, far beyond the point where most folks think they would stop. So once that arb gets going and growing, it will have roots extending far beyond the initial planting space. Therefore, we can begin to see that placing a small amount of highly-concentrated fertilizer in one tiny little spot has no relationship to how the plant forms its roots. Bad, bad idea. Second, research has shown over and over that the main job of a new transplant is to regenerate its root system, most of which will have been left behind in the nursery when the plant was dug. And other research has shown us that roots develop fastest in a low-nitrogen (fertilizer) environment. Since it is root regeneration we need to see in order for our landscape plants to perform well, it follows that no fertilizer should be used at time of planting, this unless a soil test has actually shown an acute shortage of this or that nutrient. And all I have to do is look at the green grass and other plants in your photo to tell that there is no acute nutrient shortage here. Maybe a eency-weency bit of this or that, but nothing limiting to growth. So does fertilization have any place here? Perhaps, after a year or two or four have gone by, the plant is established, and you wish to boost growth as you say at the outset. It may make some sense to do a very light application, via broadcasting at the surface, of a fertilizer at that time. But not now, and never with those !@@#$%^& spikes! Maybe you can tell, I'e been down this road here before, so please don't take it that I'm yelling at you. But if I could, I surely would lay into the knuckleheads that still sell this outright garbage. BTW, you can take those spikes, crush them up, and use as a proper top-dressing style of fertilizer later on if you wish. The feeder roots, those roots which do the actual absorption of nutrients in the soil solution, are upward-facing and very shallow, like right under the surface. Finally, one more point: Studies have shown that you can double the speed of plant establishment by mulching your plantings. You've done that and this is a good thing. But I wouldn't use fertilizer on a brand new transplant. +oM

either the micro climate [more shade].. or the soil [water] is different... [or tree root competition .. which would be a reason for more shade] ya know.. not unlike children.. they all dont end up looking the same ... when dealing with the vagaries of mother nature.. this is not uncommon ... you should not try to be all interior designer.. when in the garden ... relax.. they look fine ... imo ... the look great.. fert is not an answer ... ken