My guess is Echinopsis oxygona or Easter lilly cactus. It is hardy to 8b or 15 F. this plant has 14 different names that is listed on DG. so google away. If you don't like this name you 've got a ton to pick from. If they have been in the pot for a long time, one may need to change the dirt. Dirt gets played out after a couple of years. Make sure it is suitable dirt not the comercial cactus dirt. That need to be cut with perlite and pummice or something for the drainage 50/50.

Guess I left a lot out. Mowing height. There is never any reason to mow St Aug lower than the mower's highest position. I experimented with letting St Aug go unmowed for years at a time. Yes it was an experiment and not lazy. It grows up to 32 inches and then stops growing. As I mowed it down I think I liked it best when mowed between 9 and 12 inches. Insect pest control. When you have been organic for awhile, you will find very few pest problems. Why? Because when you are not poisoning the insects the predators seem to come to your property to feed. You'll see birds, toads, lizards, insect predators, and some other critters keeping Nature in balance. Sometimes things happen, though. Grubs are the offspring of the beetles that usually swarm your porch lights in late spring. If you did not have enough to cover your lights, then you likely won't have any issues. But if you're still afraid, dig up a square foot of turf and look for them. If you don't see more than a dozen, you're fine. If you see uncountable numbers, perhaps your barfing all over them will fix that one spot. But what about the rest of the lawn? I would use an organic critter called beneficial nematodes. These are not the root knot nematodes that plague the south. These guys introduce a disease to the insects that essentially paralyzes them right away. I get the Guardian Lawn Patrol brand from a company out of Colorado. Make sure the yard is saturated with moisture before you apply. Nematodes need a film of water to move around and find the insects. Those will take care of fleas, too, but not ticks. Ticks can be attacked in January with the beneficial nematodes. The BN only work in the soil. In the spring ticks emerge from the soil so the BN don't catch them. Are chickens an option??? As for fire ants, as of yesterday I have a new approach. Fire ants are not sugar ants. In fact they will not survive an attack of too much sugar. So up until recently I have used molasses, about 3-4 ounces in 5 gallons of water, and drenched the mound. That worked to move the ants somewhere else. This week I added a little booster to the mix. I put in a packet of bread yeast and let that yeast grow in the water for about 20 minutes. Then I drenched the mound. I'll need to check again next week, but that ant hill is gone with no new life that I could see in the vicinity. Many ants are farmers. They bring very specific materials to their ant hill homes and deposit that stuff in their chambers. Then very specific mold and bacteria grow on the feed they brought in. The ants do not eat the food material directly but they eat off that mold and/or bacteria. When you disrupt their farming operation by introducing foreign substances, that contaminates their crop and they starve. Sugar is one of those substances with fire ants. My guess was that yeast would further contaminate their crops. I hope I'm right, because it is a very organic approach. And yes, applying a chemical insecticide will damage the microbes in the soil. One class of microbes are called microarthropods (which is probably Latin for tiny insects). If you use insecticide it takes out a lot of that class along with all the beneficial things they do for the soil. They will rebuild their population, but it is just as easy to use some other means to deal with pests. I've been organic in San Antonio since 2002 and have not seen one insect issue in that time. Even the roaches seem to have gone away.

Asiatic lilies are very hardy - zone 4 , maybe even 3. I'd recommend planting them in the ground in a sunny location with well draining soil. They tend not to rebloom as proficiently if left in the container year after year. You can remove the top portion of the stems, where the old flowerheads were located, but otherwise leave all the rest of the stems and foliage in place to recharge the bulb for next year. Lilies bloom just the one time each season so you will have to wait until next year for more flowers. And expect it to bloom later (June) once planted in the ground. Yours was forced into an early bloom for Easter sale.

Same answer as before ......the likelihood of them being the same is almost nil. Seeds don't come true from daylilies. The pod needs to dry on the scape and when ready will start to split open . You might get one seed or you might get a dozen just depends. You could have had one bee pollinate one pod and a whole different bee pollenate the other one both with different pollens from different plants. . What you get depends on what pollen was the successful bit of pollen that got to the ovary first to fertilize the plant. It is kind of like kids in a family . The may have same mother and father but none look exactly alike , some may be small others tall , some brown hair some blond , some brown eyes some blue Genetically the pollen can be from totally different plants. You may need to do some reading on pollination to completely understand how it all works. The ONLY way you will get an exact copy of your plant is to split it into individual fans and plant them all separately.