Thank you both! I'm going to remove the infected leaves ASAP. What is a good organic fungicide. I think my local nursery carries this: http://www.romencegardens.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/products.productDetail/productID/137/index.htm I'd really like to stay organic, but will consider non-organic if it means saving the peppers. Also, what do I do if it's bacterial leaf spot? Google (and gardenweb search) is giving me mixed info and my Rodale's book isn't helping much either. Do I need to pull the plants? I don't want to infect my other boxes, but I'd prefer not to lose my peppers either. Sigh. 3 weeks in and already toast.

Buff, I know exactly what you mean. It's the same here in central MS. I hope the weatherman isn't teasing us with the forecast for next week. He says highs in the 80s and a good chance of rain. I rode out in the country yesterday and the farmers are really hurting for rain also. The massive corn fields look like they've been roasted. I kinda feel guilty complaining about my few roses. At least I can water some but they can't. The poor folks up north are having the other extreme and can't do a darned thing about it.

But you are doing good Amy because you wonder why and you look.You will quickly learn what is a problem and what isn't.This yellow leaf drop is your roses[natures] way of keeping a balance between whats going on above and below ground.To keep more leaves than necessary would burden the root system.In your zone[same as mine] you probably think of your roses being evergreen but they drop and shed whats not needed. A little zone nine trick.We don't want our roses to have bare legs,of course but- If you remove as much of the lower interior leaves and going nowhere branches as you can without leaving it look skimpy from five feet away the plant will be able to challenge that much more energy where you want it to go.Study your plants and practice and you will be able to get more growth where it counts.

Let it rain and learn from it. I get so much rain but usually storms run through just when i need it but also, and often, high winds. A tarp would catch sail and might just smash a few things, then sit heavy on a younger crop...we all have our challenges. I do have a half dozen shade frames that i use for new salad beds fresh seeded. They also protect from heavy rain. My two long salad raised beds are 2.5 ft wide. I have ship-lap siding boards cut that i can lay over to protect from wind and rain if needed. And use them to put the beds asleep for the winter months. A good established raised bed is the best defense as it will drain properly. And why i made mine narrow. Never do i step foot in them so never compacted. (early spring i may do some double digging but that is it) So you have a raised bed. That is a good thing. If it holds water you need to re-think your drainage. If you have trouble after this next batch of storms, take some pics and the experts here can help you solve any future troubles. I'm no expert but have solved my needs and figured out my climate and weather challenges. My garden is established 20yrs now but a new pumpkin patch last year is outside the main fenced garden but a very high mound for drainage. I put down some rubber floor matting over some thick newspaper to help divert some heavy rains...around the 4 sloping sides. Seems to be working.