We used milky spore, and although someone here said it doesn't work in our climate, Paul Parent recommends it, and I tried it, and it works for me in Waterville. Doesn't keep ones from flying by and sampling, but it does keep them from snowballing into a huge problem. They went after my green beans one year and this last year was no biggie. One thing I have heard, is never set out pheromone traps for them because you'll lead every JB in miles to your garden where not all of them get trapped, and then they breed. Wish I had a chicken or five to hunt them down.

Kelly I agree with Glen, your seeds got too wet and rotted. I have veggie gardened for over 25 years and have decided that veggie seeds, like those you are questioning, seem to like warmer weather and not as damp as it has been to sprout. Once sprouted the rains we get don't bother them, but excel their growing. I planted mine a week or so before you and there was more days dryer than wetter and all of the beans came up (even had some year old seed), 3/4 of the mellon seeds and pretty much all cukes came up. Now I need to be brave and thin them out - I am bad at that. Get some new seeds planted soon!

Teresa, I really think it would be a little hard to keep a robust tomato plant happy in an Earth Box in our climate. I just don't think they are quite large enough and the watering reservoir probably would have to be refilled almost daily. I also am not a fan of any system, in general, that wicks moisture upward into the soil (or soilless mix) because it generally keeps roots too wet--they like to dry out a little every now and then. Roots that stay continuously wet are more prone to disease and other problems. There is a gentleman named Raybo who posts often on the Tomato forum here at Garden Web who makes his own version of the Earth Box, and he is not the only one. Kathy already linked one set of instructions, and you could google and find many more. What is nice about using Raybo's threads as a source, though, is that he is actually growing tomatoes in his containers and he reports frequently on improvements to the system, how his tomatoes are growing, the varieties that do well for him in his Earthtainers, how much his tomato plants produce, photos of how-to-make-them plus photos of them in use, etc. So, I've linked just one of Raybo's threads below. If you want to read more, you can go to the Tomato forum and type the words Raybo Earthtainer into the search box at the bottom of the page, and it will bring up all the previous threads in which he discusses his Earthtainers. There's about 40 old threads there. As far as the old bales of straw: could you tell if the plants had been planted directly into the straw or if the straw had sort of been hollowed out and filled with a good-quality soilless mix? In some parts of the country that stay significantly cooler than ours in the summer, growing in hay bales can work pretty well. I would think it would be hard, though, to keep them moist enough here. I suspect that anyone growing in hay bales is either letting the roots creep down into the soil beneath the bales, is adding potting mix and a granular fertilizer to the bale, or is feeding weekly with a water-soluable plant fertilizer. Hay bales alone, especially if they are fresh and haven't started to decompose yet, most likely could not give the plants the nutrition they need. And, if bermuda grass plagues your gardening area, the hay bales can turn into a mess. If the hay bales have enough water/nutrition to grow tomato plants, then any nearby bermuda grass will creep into the bales and grow into them too. I know this from experience because I use a lot of hay bales in my garden, and any bale set on top of bermuda grass becomes infested with bermuda grass. Hay bales are a whole can of worms in and of themselves. In general, I only buy (or accept as a gift--more about that later) bales of hay from people I know or from a reputable supplier. Here's why: In the early 2000s compost made from hay/straw that had been sprayed by a particular broadleaf weed killer got into the compost distribution system, including compost made by cities from collected yard waste and then either sold/given to residents of those cities. That weed killer had a very long half-life in the compost and damaged/killed people's gardens. The garden plots were unusable for several years. Once it was determined just which broadleaf weedkiller was the problem, I was (and continue to be) very careful to ask people if they have sprayed their hay with that particular chemical and steer clear of their hay if they have. A very similar thing happened in Great Britain last year, leading to that broadleaf weedkiller being voluntarily removed from the market while the regulatory agencies studied the issue and tried to determine how to proceed. What about all the gardeners whose gardens were ruined though? Also, if you use "old" straw or hay that has begun to decompose, that can present issues in terms of fungal disease. I use a lot of old straw and hay, but I am careful to watch for developing disease issues and move aggressively to combat them the moment they first appear. Living in a rural area, I have lots of friends, neighbors and acquaintances who often have old, leftover hay that's no longer fit to feed their cattle or horses. Sometimes they give it to me. I've been given as much as 30 to 40 squares bales at one time and one guy gave me 4 huge round bales my second summer here. I am always careful about using these, but they do make great mulch and, as they decompose, they feed the soil. Once again, though, I make sure they haven't been sprayed with a broadleaf weedkiller OR I make sure they are at least 3 years old, because in 3 years time, the broadleaf weedkiller residue should have dissipated. Hay can contain seeds of weeds (broadleaf and grassy) so I always put a layer of newspaper or cardboard between the soil and the hay/straw to help prevent the seeds from sprouting. (And, sometimes they sprout anyway and give me weeds I didn't need.) If you put down a layer of hay/straw, you can lessen the number of seeds that sprout by scattering an organic pre-emergent agent on top of the hay/straw. Ruth Stout used bales of straw laid on top of the ground both as mulch and to enrich her soil for decades. She was a very successful gardener and she had beautiful soil, but she laid the mulch on thick--at least 12" I think, and then pulled back the mulch and planted into the soil or the lower levels of straw that had partially decomposed. The very depth of her mulch kept a lot of weeds from sprouting, and if they sprouted, she piled more mulch on top of them to smother them. That would work with some of the weeds we have here, but it wouldn't work with bermuda grass. I hope this info helps. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Info on Raybo's Earthtainers

AFAIK, the only naturally occurring W. filiferas in what would commonly be considered the *Mojave* Desert are at Twentynine Palms, which is near the southern end of that desert. Possibly the ones at Cottonwood Springs could be included. Groves further south in Calif. are in the Colorado Desert (a subdivision of the Sonoran Desert). My favorite group is at Mountain Palm Springs, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. All that aside, I haven't made a point of looking for exceptionally tall Washingtonias, but you've certainly caught my attention, and I'll be on the lookout for them. The three in your photo are exceptional in every way, and I thank you for sharing it. I'd think there might be some particularly tall ones (both species) in places like the San Gabriel Valley, or maybe Riverside or Redlands. I'll be looking for them.