Clogging. Did this once with the pvc pipe above ground with holes pointing down, many would get clogged. You'll need large holes to prevent this, which means you might not have enough water pressure for your whole garden. Try just a small strip first, work out bugs, before going all out.

Dale, Your setup looks great. You can come work on mine anytime you like! How many square feet is that? Did you figure out how many emitters you can run at one time? I have about 3200 sq ft and can run that all at once though I like to keep some off sometimes (the reason for the valves on each line). I'm planning to expand to 4800 or even 6400 next year to plant some corn, and a few other veggies. I'll definitely need to run that area at a different time because of the limitiations of a 3/4" line. I'm thinking about trying dripline with integrated emitters for that area. Rick

Sorry about that - thought you might want to play the guessing game. They are, in order: Picea omorika 'Pendula Bruns' (from ACS) Picea orientalis 'Tom Thumb' (ACS) Larix k. 'Diane' Pinus t. 'Thunderhead' Juniperus h. 'Prince of Wales' on standard (bought locally) Cedrus d. 'Karl Fuchs' Pinus f. 'Glauca Reflexa' Metasequoia g. 'Miss Grace' Pinus s. 'Pendula' Cham. l. 'Snow Queen' Cedrus a. 'Glauca Pendula' Cham. o. 'Kerdalo' Tsuga c. 'Gentsch White' Tsuga c. 'Curly' Abies procera 'Glauca' Cedrus d. 'Klondike' Thujopsis dolobrata 'Nana' 6 Taxodium distichum This was the first year for mail order for me, and I was amazed at how good they looked when they arrived. I received 2 other deodora cedars (Devinely Blue & Gold Cascade) that lost all their needles shortly after arrival and I'm trying to nurse them back. All in all, the mail order from several suppliers has been a very good experience and a lot of fun receiving the packages. Thanks to all the Enablers!! Kim

Pam. I am not technically oriented so at first all of John Jeavons many pages of lists, charts and diagrams made my head swim and my eyes glaze over. I really let that stuff intimidate me for the longest time. In the meantime, I tried Square Foot Gardening and, while it works reasonably well, some of the spacing---especially for plants like tomatoes and squash that become huge monsters in hot climates--just just didn't give me the results I wanted. So, I went back to "How To Grow More Vegetables...." and tried to incorporate more of that spacing. What I do now is a hybrid of the two, and I do it because it works. Some years I use the spacing from John Jeavons' book almost exclusively, and other years I use some square foot spacing, especially when I am in a hurry because square grid spacing is easier at a time like that. I try to make my grow lists beginning in August while everything is fresh on my mind. I know that by December, I might not remember if it was Yellow Submarine we liked or Medovaya Kaplya or both or neither, so it is best to make next year's planting decisions while everything is more fresh in my mind. This year I have the greenhouse, so I won't necessarily have to drag container plants into the garage as I have in the past. Maybe I can just keep them in the greenhouse with a small heater. Time will tell. We routinely have tomatoes until Thanksgiving or Christmas depending on the weather, and I'm talking about from in-ground plants. Picked at the breaker stage, they ripen slowly and we can eat them from a long time. I extend the season even more with the container plants. Some years I plant the long-keeper types like Longkeeper, Reverend Morrow's Longkeeper, Red October, etc. and they will last a couple of months after being picked if you pick them just before the breaker stage or at the breaker stage. I put them on shelves in our tornado shelter. Golden Jubilee is not, technically, a long-keeper, but it works well when used as one. Busy1, You're there! I know you've been too busy to be online much. I suppose it still is too hot and too dry there to plan on a fall garden? The Keetch-Byram Drought Index numbers for your part of the state are getting scary high. Carol, Likely in these temperatures the row cover is reducing enough light to prevent wilting, but in the spring, if I leave the heavyweight frost blanket on plants on a hot day after a cold night, they do not look happy when I finally uncover them. I use floating row covers a lot in the cool season, but it is hard to make them behave in the wind. I also have cat issues. If I put a row cover over hoops, the cat think it is cat furniture, climb onto it and rip it or tear it. If I put it on plants without hoops so it is free-floating, they think it is a cat blanket and lay on top of it and the plants. To keep the cats out of the garden, I'd have to remove the cedar entry arbor because even when I close the gate, they climb over the arbor to go inside. I don't know how to solve the kitty cat issues with row cover, because they are stubborn. If I yell at them to get off the fabric, they do. However, the minute I turn my attention elsewhere, they're back on it again. Since I'm not out in the garden every minute of the day, the cats do as they please when I'm not there. Thus, for cat reasons, floating row cover works great for me on cold nights when the kitties are in the house but not so great during the day. I have similar issues with shade cloth, but the worst issue with it is that snakes like to lie on top of the shade cloth and sun themselves. I suppose they consider it a bonus that they can scare me to death when I see them there on the shade cloth, often inches from my face. The best solution would be to take out the arbor and replace it with fencing with a standard gate that would keep the cats out, but I love the arbor and the 'Pink Lemonade' honeysuckle that grows on it, so I'd rather not take it out. Anyway, the garden needs the cats or it likely would become overrun with field mice and voles. I just wish I could convince the cats that floating row cover is not meant for their comfort. Dawn