Nota, how big is your new hibiscus? Ok, I'm sure leaves are yellowing because of different environment..I KNOW this for fact. It's a good idea to check for pests, especially mites, scale and white fly. They should be easy to spot..and it never hurts to check Hibs do need 1. fresh air 2 humidity and 3. sun. \ Many of my tree hibs leaves are yellowing..it's too large for me to place in the sink or carry upstairs to the shower so the best I can do is mist. Remove yellow leave..if you leave them on and they fall in the soil this WILL attract bugs. I'm sure the leaves are yellowing becaues of the change. You want to duplicate the area in which it was shipped. If easy to carry to sink, do so once a wk.. I also really advise buying hib food at either www.stokestropical.com or www.plumeriapeople.com This food is only u sed on hibs..Since I've been using I've been able to keep a hib longer than a yr..my tree was bought in the mid-90's, so you see what I mean..Just sprinkle food on soil then water..it lasts 3 months. I divide mine in thirds so it needs feeding once a month. A little goes a long way. You apply food by size of pot..so say my 12" pot requires 2 teaspoons of food..they also give u a little measuering spoon. My hib is in south and east windows.. They only get watered when soil is dry. Misted daily. summer outdoors..this is important..you wouldn't believe the difference when they're growing outside in full sun. Even iin summer I let soil dry a bit, and after a rain shower flowers burst out. I feed my hib (one of two types of plants) yr round..Hibiscus do not go dormant, but becuase of lack of sun, etc, it does seem to slow down..in leaf growth and floweirng, but if you have sunny days they will bloom all yr..One thing about winter is, flowers do not grow as large as they do in summer when outdoors. Flowers last 1-2 days so this is normal. But w/good care there should always be flowers on a hib. Enclosed is a pic of my hib..didn't shoot the whole tree, but what you see is the middle and top. Good luck, Toni Here is a link that might be useful: RE: Got a new Hibiscus and I need some help

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new garden - how exciting! I'm sorry the first response to your question made you feel you needed to apologize. It's a good question, and a lot of people wouldn't even consider that the tomatoes might be a green when ripe variety. I think statistically you probably have a red tomato, unless you know that the gardener planted other unusual veggies. As Dave said, the way to tell is by touch - go out and fondle your tomato bottoms ð If they are hard/unripe, you may want to consider some proactive steps to tell them to get a move on. I'd start by finding out when your first frost should be (if you don't know) - try googling 'Ontario first frost' or similar - and taking a look at your long range weather forecast for nighttime temps dipping below 40 or so. If you still have some time, you can try 'root pruning' your plant(s) by slicing a shovel into the ground about a foot away from the stem on a few sides (not all around.). This is supposed to speed ripening. You can also search this forum for terms like 'ripen before frost' or just 'first frost' to get some additional ideas. If your frost is coming, you may want to make plans to cover your plants at night -sometimes there's more good weather after a night of frost if you can pull the plants through it. You're really just looking for a slight 'blush' of color on the bottom of the tomato or a little give/softness if they're green when ripes; then you can pick them and ripen them indoors. Good luck and I wish you ripe tomatoes! ~emmers Edited to add : I initially missed the part where you said you've grown most of the veggies before and thought you were brand new - my apologies. This post was edited by emmers_m on Tue, Oct 1, 13 at 9:15

It's normal for older leaves to yellow and die off, as long as you're getting new ones at the top. When it comes to watering it's best not to go by regular intervals. As weather fluctuates water evaporation rates change as does plant up take of water. You need to check moisture in the soil and water as needed. It's best to have fast draining potting soil as then it's more difficult to actually over water the plant. You can also give it an occasional good flush with water to prevent build up of excess mineral salts from fertiliser. I'd use the slow release fertiliser when repotting, they don't need a lot. With the vagueries of Melbourne weather I'd be careful about leaving it out all the time this time of year. (I'm in Darwin but know how it can be down there). The Bamboo Palm is Chamaedorea seifrizii and it's a multi trunked palm, so it will keep growing more trunks/stems (I have some with stems over 4 metres long). The Parlour Palm is Chamaedorea elegans which is a single trunked palm. So you have multiple plants in that pot. Due to competition from so many of them growing crowded together you'll have to expect some of the weaker ones to die off. That's normal. Otherwise, they're a good indoor palm and fairly slow growing. They can get up to a couple of metres tall, but you won't have to worry about that for quite a while.

Molewacker, We definitely are keeping the redwoods. I love those big beautiful trees and they are part of the reason why we bought the house. In the living room we have these large, beautiful custom windows that overlook these emerald beauties along with the pool and water fountain. We actually have 4 giant redwoods in our backyard (there's two on the left side of the yard) and all of our neighbors have redwoods everywhere too. I know they aren't ideal for residential landscape but they're here and we love them so we're going to keep them unless they start to die for some reason. Then we'd have them removed right away because those things are huge and we don't want them to fall.