Most all "weed" killers, plant poisons, must be applied to foliage to work, according to the manufacturers. Boring holes in stumps and filling them with a high Nitrogen material has been used by some to hasten the decay of those stumps. Now is the time to take a good, in depth, look at the soil to see what it needs to become a good healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants. Aside from soil pH and major nutrient levels and balance you should know about how much sunlight the area gets, how much moisture the area gets (is irrigation available or must the plants rely on rainfall), what might be planted there? If something that needs a soil pH in the 4.0 to 5.0 range do not amend that soil for plants that need a soil of 6.2 to 6.8. Organic matter is almost always a help, especially if the soil is compacted and hard to work. Where in the United States are you? That information will be of much help in what other information is given here. What someone in Minnesota may be told might be different then what someone in Florida might be told.

Cheap bare-root plants, or any bare-roots planted after April, often suffer from canker and dieback. They have been held in cold storage since November. If conditions are not perfect, they can suffer freeze damage or dehydration. Discount roses have not been carefully inspected, culled, and pruned-- or they may be culls from a premium operation. Just prune the bad canes off, or to a bud eye at least 1" below any black or yellow bark. It looks like the healthy areas are growing well, so I'd leave them alone. Obviously the cane underlying the dead area on the tree rose has been physically injured so it cannot function. It is broken, bored by an insect, or girdled by a canker lesion. Water on leaves does not cause burning-- that's an old wives tale.

Plumeriavine, I am so sorry you are going through this. I really sympathize with your frustration and I admire you for trying to seek out solutions for the various issues. Some of them are just cosmetic, but many of them are structural and I think it would be good for you to take a step back for a minute and decide if you have the time, energy and experience to determine how to fix each and every problem individually. I'm not a lawyer, but I used to do a lot of contract work in my former job working with lawyers. I want to caution you that once you start developing and implementing your own solutions, you will begin to muddy the waters between what is you KD/installer's issue and what is a result of the fix you implemented. In simple terms, you're taking joint ownership of the problem. If you agree to a specific fix, they will be able to claim that you authorized it and they may be off the hook. As soon as you take ownership of fixing their mistakes, they will hold you accountable if the fixes don't work. It's taken them 6 months to do a horrendous job of installing a poorly designed kitchen. Allowing them to continue to butcher your beautiful cabinets and repair them inch by inch, while you do battle to get everything fixed is a long, long road. Even more complicated is trying to document every issue and every fix needed in an attempt to get a financial settlement out of them. Remember, these are just the issues you know of--there are probably more you haven't discovered yet. I think now is the time to make a firm decision to choose one of the following doors: 1. continue to work with these clowns bandaiding issue after issue, 2. get a thorough evaluation of all the problems by qualified third parties and go to court to get a monetary settlement to complete the job with someone else or 3. have they rip it out, put everything back to where it was and get a full refund. I don't think #1 is an option-you don't trust them and you will take ownership of the problem. And I honestly think that # 3 is a shorter road than #2. I know that's not what you want to hear, but as many have said, the problems are just too massive to think that you have a chance of catching every issue and developing the correct solution. You paid far too much for those beautiful cabinets to accept a hatchet job of an installation. Many years ago we watched as a good friend battled with a builder over their dream house experiencing structural issues. They continued to work with the builder, allowing him to implement solution after solution. In the end, they ended up in court and sold the house back to the builder. The whole process took over 5 years. When it was all over, they wished they had just cut loose from the builder when the problems piled up and moved on. Figure out which option you want to pursue, and put all your energy into that option. If it were me, I'd be headed for door #3.

Hi CJ FIREFIGHTER, It depends on what other symptoms that you may be getting on your TV. When you say that the screen keeps flipping between picture and a black screen, are you still getting back light? (Meaning, is the TV still turned on?) Here's a simple test: when your TV starts flipping between picture and black screen-->tap on the screen very gently with your index finger to see if there is still back lighting. If there is back lighting, this could be an issue with your main board (this is the circuit board with your HDMI, A/V IO, etc) or the tuner board (if it is separate from the main board). If you're not getting back lighting, do you still hear sound when it flips between picture and black screen? In particular, are you getting sound from the black screen? If you are getting sound from the black screen, it could be the LED Driver starting to go bad or the TV panel itself. If you're not getting sound when it flips from picture to black screen, it could be your main board. Here's a simple test: try connecting the A/V cable to an external speaker to see if the audio works via an external speaker system. If it works, then it could be your coaxial cable that connects to the tuner on your TV, the port that you are connecting it to, or the signal itself. If you have a laptop or desktop with USB-to-Tuner card installed, try connecting the coaxial cable to your laptop or desktop to see if it does the same thing: flip between picture and black screen. If it does, then switch out the coaxial cable with a new one and try again. If it still persists, you can safely rule out your laptop/desktop and TV being the problem. If not, and the symptoms only appear on your TV, then it's most likely the main board. To a lesser extent, depending on the model of your LG TV, it may be that the power supply may not be giving the main board enough electrical current to keep the signal consistent--hence the same symptoms occur. Main boards and power supplies are typically expensive and can be hard to find. LG and other TV Manufacturer don't typically sell their circuit boards to the general public directly. You'll have to find alternative sources like ShopJimmy.com or TVPartsGuy.com. By the way, if you have any lighting, home decor and/or accent furniture needs, we encourage you to visit us at: Lusive Decor (fully custom lighting-->caters to high-end, luxury hotel chains, casinos's, resorts, and spa's) Luxe Light and Home (semi-custom to nearly full custom lighting-->caters to high-end residential clients) Elements of Design (semi-custom lighting, home decor goods, and accent furniture-->caters to budget luxury residential clients) Thomas Cooper Studio (fully custom lighting--caters to clients looking for high-end, unique, one-of-a-kind light fixtures) We hope this information will help you make a more informed decision on your home needs. Very Best, Tai Truong Elements of Design 3400 Medford Street Los Angeles, CA 90063 tai@lusivedecor.com www.elementsofdesign.com