There are many very good herbicides out there for each crop, I use a combination of herbicides, cultivation and plastic mulches. I use herbicides the most on sweetcorn and pumpkins, but for vegetables like tomato peppers eggplant squash and melons plastic mulch is the best option...Bob.

i used roundup ... by using a chem proof rubber glove.. with a cotton glove on top ... and a bucket of round up ... and simply grabbed and bathed the grass in the garden ... it was a bit tricky to start.. but once i learned how to get the excess out of the cotton glove.. it worked pretty well ... [basically i quit dunking the whole glove in the solution .. and dripping everywhere] you are in a box that says you want to SPRAY ... there are other application procedures ... this is one of those jobs.. where one is hoping there is an easy way to do it ... life in my garden.. usually dictates.. that there is no easy way ... and its all hard work ... or a long process .... good luck ... ken ps: the alternative would be to prep a new bed ... remove one or two of everything precious .. and then simply destroy the old bed ... and start over ... and sometimes with an invasive weed such as grass.. that ends up being the only real alternative ...

You will need to become a label reader! There are many such herbicides on the market. What you are looking for is: SELECTIVE, POST-EMERGENT, GRASS HERBICIDE. These products can be sprayed over broadleaf ornamentals and garden plants and will control the grasses and grassy weeds. The monocots. Poast is such an herbicide, but there are many name brands.

I don't have good answers for you, but now I know the name of the weed that's infested parts of my lawn and some of my beds! Thanks! Honestly I've had very poor luck controlling with herbicide. It requires repeat applications over a few seasons to significantly reduce an established infestation. I've used both Roundup (non-lawn areas) and Weed B Gone Max (lawn areas) with limited success. In beds I have found manual control (hand-pulling) much more successful. It takes diligence. You need to pull in the correct conditions and do so frequently. With shallow-rooted rhizome plants, when you pull don't think of pulling up, think of pulling sideways. Find the densest cluster and that's where your main root mass probably is. Start from the edges and pull towards the direction of that root mass. Work when the soil is loosest. That would be after rain for heavy soils, and after a dry spell for loose soils. Again, start from the edge and work towards the center. While you are gaining control, pull any flowered plants even if they break and you know they'll grow back. Pull slowly and carefully to try to get as much root as possible. Any remaining roots will resprout, so what you want to do is each day where you have time to weed, go back over the spots you've already done before working in towards the worst areas. The goal is to kill it off from the outside in by getting any new plants from runners (which might be quite far from the main plant). This prevents the patch from getting bigger while you're working in exhausting the main plant. I did use spot Roundup after lots of hand-pulling. I've had great success with this method in beds with both sheep sorrel and mugwort. The key is to work on it at least a couple times a week and be diligent about it, always working from the lightly infested areas in towards the center and never letting the new offshoots get the chance to establish deeper, thicker roots. You might try a pre-emergent to keep new seeds from sprouting, but I haven't researched their effectiveness against this weed.