Pests on leaves... White fuzzy spots and sticky residue
noki
11 years ago
I first I thought this was some sort of mildew... started to multiply like crazy. How do I take care of this? Soap? Will this spread to other succulents?
S. aubrytaniana was the first plant.
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bonsaigai
11 years agoRelated Discussions
White fuzzy spots on my bird of paradise?
Comments (8)Mealy or scale, it doesn't matter (my vote is for some sort of scale, Bois-duval maybe?), since mealy is a kind of scale and you treat them the same way. First line of defense is to wipe off all the visible pests. Next, spray with an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Keep at this for a while and that should take care of it. Be persistant, this kind of scale is insidious!...See MoreShrub with fuzzy leaves and spotted bark?
Comments (5)yes, that's it. Amazingly, this is a tree I'm quite familiar with - from a distance. They are in flower right now all over East Tennessee. I've just never been close to a budding branch of one. Very invasive pest. Here's what I found on it: Stem. Twigs and branches stout, glossy gray brown and speckled with numerous white dots (lenticels). No terminal bud. Lateral leaf scars raised, circular, and becoming larger, dark, and sunken. Bark light-to-dark gray, roughened, and becoming slightly fissured. Stem pith chambered or hollow and wood white. Leaves. Opposite, heart-shaped and fuzzy hairy on both surfaces, 6 to 12 inches long and 5 to 9 inches wide. Leaves larger on resprouts, 16 to 20 inches across, with extra tips often extending at vein tips. Petioles rough hairy, 2 to 8 inches long. Flowers. April to May. Covered with showy erect panicles of pale-violet flowers before leaves in early spring, tubular with five unequal lobes. Fragrant. Flower buds fuzzy, linear, and becoming ovoid in summer and persistent on erect stalks over winter. Fruit and seeds. June to April. Terminal clusters of pecan-shaped capsules 1 to 2 inches long and 0.6 to 1 inch wide. Pale green in summer turning to tan in winter and eventually black and persistent into spring. Capsules splitting in half during late winter to release tiny winged seeds. Resembles southern catalpa, Catalpa bignonioides Walt., and northern catalpa, C. speciosa (Warder) Warder ex Engelm., which have leaves with sparsely hairy upper surfaces and rough hairy lower surfaces and long slender, persistent beans....See MoreHelp, my calathea has sticky spots on the underside of its leaves
Comments (16)Yep, it's definitely dryness response... I had forgotten to water mine, and that's what happened. Causes can be being rootbound, drop in humidity, and change in environmental conditions. Its certainly not scale, mealies or spider mite. As always, look at it with a jewellers loupe, or magnifying glass... As a keen gardener, I always carry a loupe when doing my indoor/outdoor rounds. This particular phenomenon is a sugary excretion - if not noticed quickly, it dries into a sticky crystalline spot, and leaves a transparent spot on the leaf underside. I have cleaned it off with soapy water, and a fresh water wipe afterwards Any little bugs will have been attracted to these sweet secretions, they are not the cause....See MoreWhite spots on back of leaves
Comments (14)Once mildew takes hold of a leaf it is best to remove it. Sterilize tools before and after each cut in rubbing alcohol. Spray talcohol (diluted 1:1 with water) on all the rest and the cut points. After it has dried spray your favorite fungicide. Cinnamon powder has some fungicidal effect - you can try that too. Use it raw not mixed with water. At least it will smell nice. Fungus and other micro-organisms are everywhere. Good reputable nurseries do their best to keep them under control by controlling humidity, light, air flow and temperatures. Follow good practices like keeping the plant area clean and clean their tools frequently, etc. I have visited quite a few nurseries who take care of their plants properly. But the key is to keep it under control - you can never eliminate it. They can possibly use harsh systemic insecticides that stay in the system for prolonged periods - but you would not want that either. Imagine they used one of those long term systemics and the plants kept on looking healthy. And you will think it is your superior growing skills and never suspect that the plant has been pre-treated. If the plant looked healthy when you bought it then I would look for the current conditions in your home that is allowing the fungus to proliferate. You may need to adjust light, warmth, humidity and air circulation. Not easy to achieve a good balance inside in winter unless you have a dedicated semi-enclosed area in the house. I am not a begonia expert. I have only 3 types and they are doing fine and flowering quite well. I have well over 200 plants indoors now. Mostly small 6-12 inches, then may be 20 or so between 12-24 inches and about 5 or so bigger than that. Only one of pomegranates has aphids on it and keeping it under control using soap+pyrethrins alternating with alcohol spray. The reasons for the aphids is simple, the plant decided to come out of dormancy early and the new young leaves are very vulnerable. Once they mature the impact will be lot less....See Morewoodnative
11 years agobonsaigai
11 years agoUser
11 years ago
Stush2049 Pitts. PA, zone 6
11 years agonoki
11 years ago
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