Matt, There's a couple of things to consider when planting a hege for a privacy screen. First of all, what you can plant hinges on what kind of soil you have. Some plants do very well in clay, for example, but others do not. Most plants do well in sandy loam, but a few need more acidic soil than others. So keep your soil type and pH in mind when choosing your plants. Secondly, be sure whatever type of fence, trellis or plants you choose to use do not violate any of your Home Owners Association rules, assuming that your use of the term 'neighborhood association' means that you have a HOA. Some HOAs have very strict rules about fences and hedges. Third, if you want year-round privacy, be sure to choose evergreen trees or shrubs. Also, to help keep your sanity, choose very well-adapted plants that do not need a lot of upkeep/maintenance and that are resistant to pests and diseases. I agree with what Moni said about a mixed planting. If you plant a long row of one type of tree or shrub and it is hit by disease, the disease is likely to move from one plant to another, or to hit all of them at once. Also, think about how plants grow in nature in clusters of multiple types of plants, and not in single rows of perfectly-spaced identical plants. A monoculture hedge of one type of plant is pretty tedious and dull to look at too, whereas a mixed planting looks natural and is a delight to view. Be sure to space your plants at the recommended spacing and be patient and wait for them to fill in. Most people who want a privacy hedge tend to space their plants too closly together in order to get an 'instant hedge' and then they spend the next decade fighting plants that are too close to one another to grow well. There are tons of plants you could use. I always recommend hollies like Dwarf Burford (shorter, but still tall--mine are about 8 years old and about 10-12 tall and 4' wide) because they form a very dense planting in just a few years and are very disease resistant. We have those here, and Southern Wax Myrtles (the standard ones, not the dwarf ones), but there are all kinds of evergreens that could meet your needs. For example, some of the shorter and more compact magnolias like 'Little Gem' or trees that spread out very wide like the Chaste Tree (Vitex agnus-castus) although it isn't evergreen. You could choose from the many kinds of junipers or pines or other conifers, or from broadleaf evergreens like hollies, photinias, or abelias, or you could use deciduous shrubs (like one of the viburnums) or understory type trees like redbuds, etc. I like Glenda's recommendation of ornamental grasses too. Some of them get quite large and are very beautiful. If I needed a really quick, almost 'instant' hedge and I didn't care it if was evergreen or not, I'd plant cannas. If you plant the tall types, they'll make a pretty solid screen in just a year or too. I have cannas in the shade of a pecan tree and, while that don't bloom as well as cannas in full sun would, they still or very pretty and lush and do bloom occasionally. In full sun, my cannas tend to get 4-6' tall but in dappled shade they get a couple of feet taller. If you put up a fence or trellis and grow vines on it, there are some that stay evergreen or mostly evergreen and do tolerate shade. American Cross Vine is one that I used in our shady backyard in Fort Worth and it had leaves on it from about February through December, so the fence wasn't bare for long. Many of the coral honeysuckles, like 'Pink Lemonade', for example, grow fast and bloom fairly well in part-shade to dappled shade. Virginia creeper does tend to be invasive and it isn't evergreen, but I love it and have it in several places in our landscape. To give you an idea of what kinds of shrubs and trees do well in much of Oklahoma, I've linked the website for Sooner Plant Farms because their photos and descriptions are very, very good. In addition to browsing their tree and shrubs pages, they have a 'Plant Selector' and you can plug in your data and get their recommendations. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Sooner Plant Farms

yes deer will eat them, the only thing i have thats evergreen and untouched by deer are spruce, austrian pine, and japanese black pine. i have junipers that have been nibled on but seem to survive them nibling. the pines you have are probably austrian pine or scotch pine which will be a good hedge, but not fast growing.

A lot of the clumping bamboos (most, I believe), that are hardy in zones 7 and 8 are subtropical mountain species. Which means..., they are not as hardy to extreme cold or too extreme heat as that notorious running genus, Phyllostachys (you don't wanna go there!). F. rufa seems the most commonly available in the Mid Atlantic area. It is a nice species and does put up well with our hot nights (a potential issue with many of the mountain species). It has seen temps from 4F to 109 without any burning. It is not cheap, and you will not get a privacy wall overnight, but will, eventually, if it likes its positioning. Some shade from the hottest sun is definitely a big advantage. It is well-behaved and will not be invasive, but will form a dense grove. We have Fargesia rufa (Green Panda Bamboo). Started with little pots and every year would divide each plant to lengthen 'the wall'. Growing area gets morning sun and dappled midday. It is never watered nor fed.

I'm afraid I'm going to start by bursting your bubble somewhat. Hedges don't stop noise. For that you need a solid barrier. Wall or fence. I'm not familiar with z6 but my understanding is that the choice of broad leaved evergreens which flower is somewhat limited. Rhododendrons, I believe will grow. Perhaps Kalmias, Pieris or Camellias but I'm not at all sure about those.