'Can anyone suggest any ways to revitalize/prune/fertilize the shrub (privet) that is already there?' The link below is a good general pruning guide from Purdue Univ. Cooperative Extension. They mention privet as a shrub to prune after flowering, but I'd ignore that since you are doing more severe rejuvenation pruning, and losing the flowers for a year is the least of your worries. another one from Iowa State Extension: http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM1958.pdf And here's a link to both a video and a written description on how to rejuvenate an old privet hedge from 'This Old House.' He mentions adding a shrub fertilizer, but if your town has a waste recycling program that allows you to get compost for minimal cost, I'd go get a bunch of that and top dress right under the hedge (and where you want to plant other stuff) now so that it can start improving your soil. I googled privet rejuvenation pruning, and these were only a few of the links if you want more . . . Google is a wonderful resource if you know the terms you need ;>) If you decide to go for the rejuvenation pruning, you will most likely have a shorter time to get coverage back since the shrubs already have an established root system, while if you totally replant, it will probably be at least three years. If you decide to remove the privet and replant, be sure to either dig in compost or do a lasagna layering to improve the soil, which will really help determine the success of your planting. Those current shrubs have been there quite a while, and if the soil was neglected as the hedge was, it's probably seriously lacking in organic matter which is really the key to productive soils. To get rid of the oaks and other tree saplings in the hedge, cut each to ground level during the growing season, and paint the freshly cut stump with a brush killer, being careful not to get any on the plants you want. Round-up has a short half-life if you want something with low toxicity (compared to other brush killers) but may allow some resprouting and so will need to be repeated. Alternatively, cut all the roots below ground level by removing dirt with a trowel and taking a pruner to each root. A final thought . . . it's easiest to look at your conditions and plant accordingly. So, if you want the hedge on the south side of your yard for privacy, you'll have shade over there, so start researching shade perennials by doing a search for threads with that topic over in the perennials forum (go down to the bottom of the forum) or google the topic. For your veggies, can you plant on the side of the yard farthest from the hedge to get the most sun or can you plant your tomatoes in the front yard in decorative obelisks instead of tomato cages if that will give them more sun? Have fun, and let us know what you've decided and add some new photos as work progresses. Here is a link that might be useful: Purdue Cooperative Extension Pruning guide

Hi Ritholtz - Leylands are beautiful trees. If you want to trim them that short, they may be more prone to disease over time. It's better to find a plant that you can prune a bit closer to it's mature height. Maybe other can weigh in on this? Neil Sperry says never to "top" a tree. Because I read recently that Neil Sperry (or Howard Garrett) no longer recommends Leyland Cypress for Texas, I marked it off of my consideration list (arborvitae's are prone to a lot of insects?). Because of that, I am focusing more on junipers. You can google evergreen plant nursery for dimensions, "mature" rate, etc... If you are interested, I would do some further research. Last night I was looking at some videos of Wax Myrtle on youtube. I recommend checking the videos and google "wax myrtle trees" images. Yes, they do need to be pruned and trained as a tree (some people want them to grow more as a shrub). They take really well to pruning so it is possible to make them look like a nice tree. I found some really nice ones. Right now, I'm looking at the Majestic Beauty Indian Hawthorne; It grows to the right dimensions, is evergreen, drought tolerant. I would have to find a larger size since it is only moderate growing... Here's what I'm doing - a combination of spartan juniper, Nellie Steven's Holly, Blue Point Juniper, Majestic Beauty Indian Hawthorne, and Cleveland Pear (hardier version of the Bradford Pear - a bit larger and still very dense). I know some people hate the pears but I think they are "well-groomed" and provide good density. Cleveland is less prone to blowing over in an ice storm. Also, according to Neil Sperry, they have a moderate lifespan (25-50 years) and fast growing. In all these trees, I'm taking into consideration - hardiness, drought resistance, density (for privacy) and beauty. I've been reading Neil Sperry's gardening book to help narrow down choices; I recommend it! Hope you can find some answers!

Immediate full coverage is going to be difficult to achieve......sorry. The landscaper was correct - few conifers will establish in heavy shade and with that much root competition, especially ones with any size on them to begin with. Aucuba japonica, Japanese laurel, is a very shade tolerant broadleaf evergreen shrub. It will grow in almost total shade and is relatively drought tolerant. But it is probable that the largest you could find to plant will only be about 3-4' to begin with and you will have to be patient while they grow. Getting them enough water to begin with will help establishment and encourage more rapid growth. But it will be a few years until they reach a height to provide much screening. They can get 10-12' eventually. Another option is bamboo. Don't freak out! I am referring to a cold hardy clumping bamboo, like one of the Fargesia species. Clumping bamboos are very well behaved - they do not spread aggressively like a running bamboo, but remain in a controlled clump like a very large ornamental grass. Fargesia is very shade tolerant and will take temps down to 0F. Again, you will need to provide adequate water while it is establishing, perhaps for the first couple of growing seasons. The advantage of a bamboo is that it will already have some serious height to it - you will likely find plants available that are already 6-8' tall - and it puts on height rapidly. Once established, new canes emerging will grow rapidly to the full mature height. Depending on the species, Fargesia will grow 8-20' tall.

NWalton, I am not sure where you are in zone 6, but if you are in New England you may find what I did useful as far as plant ideas, though mine isn't a formal hedge made of one kind of plants as you may want. Before I started this project in fall 2009, I think, I tried to web search mixed shrub borders and didn't find much that inspired me. But I knew I had seen in person similar things planted various places, so I had some ideas in mind and then just winged it. My goals were to block or distract from some of the sightlines to a work area from the main entrance drive, but not to exceed 20'-25' in height. We had just cleared a wooded area to have more sun, so I was starting from a blank slate. I knew I wanted a mix of evergreens (for winter interest) and deciduous shrubs, vines and perennials for colorful and contrasting foliage and flowers. I know I have more space than the typical suburban yard, but something similar to this could be done on a scaled down basis. Mine is probably about 15' deep on average x something like 60' long. The first photo below is in June of 2010 after planting fall 2009. 3 kinds of evergreens (2 or 3 of each randomly spread down the bed length - Thuja 'Sunkist', Thuja 'Techny' and a slower growing cultivar of blue spruce, 'Fat Albert', that I will probably eventually have to remove due to large size or budworm damage), a few small pagoda dogwoods, a couple of Hydrangea paniculata (Quickfire and Pinky Winky), a Coppertina Ninebark, two Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), a half dozen rhododendrons, some winterberry holly, and a few perennials. Before planting, I laid down a bunch of composted manure. After planting the various shrubs, I mulched heavily for moisture and weed control, first putting down cardboard and then about 6" of loose mulch that packed down to 4" or so. Perennials were planted around the edges after the main shrubs were in by cutting through the cardboard. I tried to leave enough room between the evergreens and shrubs to allow them to just grow together over time, but not be super crowded, so it was rather sparse the first year or two. I didn't do formal plans, but knew the ballpark size of the mature shrubs and the bed size, and once I bought the plants, I plopped them down in the bed and moved them around until I liked the layout, and then got out the shovel. I didn't pick out specific varieties ahead of time, but went around to local nurseries during fall sales knowing that I wanted rhodies, varied colored medium evergreens, etc. and chose from what they had available (that met my needs) to keep expenses down. Looking east from the middle Looking NE from the SW side (June 2010) In December of 2010 after one full growing season looking west from the dirt pile just visible on the right (east) side of the photos above After 4 growing seasons with some added perennials but not much in the way of added shrubs it is fairly full. Late October 2013 June 2014 looking East along the front of the bed. Looking down the back side as fall color is just beginning to develop - no perennials since this is the work area side. Here's a photo in taken late November 2014 that was from a similar angle to the second photo at the top. There have been a few plants over the years that haven't worked out due mostly to the voles that are a curse of my gardening existence, but for the most part I am quite happy with the bed. It's at my husband's shop so I don't get down to it as regularly as I might wish, but it doesn't need more than a few of hours of weeding per season and some tidying up and cutting back some time between the fall and the start of growth in spring as long as I keep the mulch in good shape. I add more mulch every couple of years where there is space between plants. I've also added edging, a combination of the rolled edge black plastic edging from a big box store and recycled bricks lining the inside edge of the plastic (visible 2 and 3 photos up) to run the lawn mower wheels on so no edge whacking needed. As far as the plants you've mentioned so far: Pinky Winky is a big plant. Mine is 8' tall x 12' wide at about 8 years. Great flowers. I also have Quickfire which is about 6' in all directions at the same age and blooms starting a month earlier. Look at other Hydrangea paniculata varieties as well to find ones that fit your size wishes, bloom season and style, and branch stiffness (some weep a bit due to bloom weight.) Fagus "Rohanii' is a plant I see as a feature, not part of a border or mixed planting. Gorgeous but huge, and as Floral mentioned, not much grows under a mature beech. Native white pine (Pinus strobus) are large messy trees that aren't necessarily handsome with age since when open grown they often have multiple trunks and they exceed your 30'-40' height. They tend to be messy, dropping pitch on anything nearby and losing large branches in storms that have heavy snow or ice. I don't think I'd plant them in a suburban yard, though they make up a significant part of the woodlands on this old farm.