Once again...Japanese Maples in Colorado??
oakiris
12 years ago
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Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agooakiris
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Help please! JM for Colorado?
Comments (22)Hi Christina & David! Sorry, I don't know anyone on the DBG horticulture staff. You might want to stop in the Library first (or call them in advance)--the head librarian (Deb) is very helpful. There used to be a gentleman named George Brinkmann, a retired horticulturist with many years of experience in this region, who held public "office hours" in the library a couple of days a week on Tues & Thurs early in the afternoon. However, I think he had some health problems and had to give that up last year, but maybe he's returned, or else maybe they've found a replacement for him. Other than those people, you might just get lucky and run into somebody knowledgeable about maples while you're in the gardens near those plants. I meant to mention before that my garden soil tests as very close to neutral Ph. I have heard the statement that soils here are quite alkaline, but I think that's a generalization. In addition, I personally favor making moderate amendments with peat and compost to tip things a bit more toward acidity if that's favorable for the plant. Almost any plant's roots will eventually spread into "native soil" but I'd rather the new plant be a little happier when it's first getting established, and I don't think I overdo the amendments. (I know there are other "camps" on this issue.) Yes, I'm going to take that magnolia back to Tagawa and get a refund. I'm not sure how they can sell trees at 50% off and still give a year's guarantee, unless many people don't bother claiming their refunds; I think they do ask you to bring them the dead tree! BTW, I'm sure there are various other places that sell JMs near here, and at more attractive prices--esp. "big box" stores, but they're less likely to have the unusual we sometimes need and crave. I'm fascinated by microclimates myself, but unfortunately I've been able to find very little written about the subject. From what I've been able to gather, there seem to be two aspects to plant hardiness. The easier one to deal with, probably, is the root zone temperature environment. I've read that damage starts to occur there at temps lower than 28 F. A good mulch layer can protect against this potential damage, and a nice layer of snow can do even better. However, cold air temperatures below some point will damage stems and branches, the point depending on the hardiness of the species. I think that's why some marginally-hardy trees are sometimes referred to as "stump-sprouts"--most of the above-ground parts of the plant die but the root system doesn't (at least for a number of years). Of course dessication is a separate problem for above-ground plant parts, especially in this sunny-winter climate. Other than the most general principles and trial-and-error, it seems difficult to predict microclimates. There are so many factors involved besides topography. For example,the influence of a building to the north of a plant may be very different depending on the building's height, mass, color (solar absorption) and configuration. Also, if one is depending on stored solar heat being radiated at night from a building face, it will make a big difference whether the days following the initial cold wave are sunny or cloudy, still or windy. Another aspect of the problem is how far away the influence of a building is felt and how fast the influence drops off with distance. I know of a student who is investigating this question at the U. of Denver near some of the larger buildings on the campus, but I haven't heard any of the findings yet. Christina, if you go, I'd like to hear your reaction to the various maples at the DBG!...See MoreJapanese Maples in Colorado...
Comments (9)Thanks for your response, kaitain4! After posting here on Sunday, I went to the Container Gardening Forum and was introduced to Al's Gritty Mix and I think I will use it for the potting medium; it sounds similar to what you are recommending, too - bark and gritty material. I've never used a soilless mixture before so I am a bit nervous but the mixture has won over a lot of folks here at GW - and on Dave's Garden - so I am going to give it a try. Finding all of the required ingredients (or their substitutes) and getting them together and mixed before the tree arrives is the challenge! I am purchasing the tree from Davidsans Japanese Maples; it will be a 1 gallon tree and David recommends just using a 2 gallon pot for its first transplant so that the tree doesn't "swim" in too big of a pot. I have one that is just a bit bigger than 2 gallons that I plan to use. The overwintering is the main problem. I do have a shed that I could put it in, though. It does get some sunlight in there during the winter because it has some small windows, but I should be able to keep the tree out of direct sunlight and it will have complete protection from the wind. Watering it shouldn't be a problem. The tree is only hardy to -15 degrees F but we seldom have below zero temps here in the Denver area, so, with the added insulation of the bubble wrap, as you suggested, I think it will be OK. Do you think this will work? Holly...See MoreJapanese Maples! in Colorado!
Comments (30)A little update -- I've gone a little crazy over here, although by what I have read on the Maples forum, I may just be getting started... I now have 7 Japanese Maples, 3 in pots, and 4 in the ground. These are the cultivars I'm growing: --Bloodgood --Emperor 1 --Seiryu --Butterfly --Orangeola --Inaba Shidare --Sango Kaku I'm happy to report that my bloodgood is putting on all kinds of new growth and seems to be adjusting after an early summer windy week that turned its leaves brown. Also, I'm growing my Orangeola, Butterfly and Seiryu in full sun and they are also all putting on new growth. I'm planning to wrap the trees that are in the ground to protect them from our winter wind. I have planted a row of Junipers to protect them, but these are not quite tall enough yet. I am interested to hear from other people in Colorado what they do for the winter, which cultivars work in what locations, etc... I have generally found people at nurseries to be skeptical, and most of the information available to be quite conflicting in terms of conditions, etc... and I realize that the environments vary so much that this is naturally the case. However, I think those of us willing to experiment in Colorado, might learn a lot from each other experiences. I'm also looking forward to shaping over the winter. I have finally picked up Vertrees Japanese Maples book, and another by Hobson about pruning and shaping called "Niwaki". Both of these are excellent resources, and while I had heard about Vertrees (THE book on Japanese Maples) the other was new. Niwaki is a fantastic explanation for pruning, shaping, and working with your trees to achieve the effects of the Japanese Gardens. In fact, it explains exactly how to do it... Anyhow, I'm also excited that I have 4 seasons of gardening rather than the 2-3 of the standard western garden. Fun! I look forward to hearing updates from any of you willing to share.. and I'll post some pictures of everything above laster this week. Tom...See MoreI need help with Japanese Maple seedlings
Comments (6)RIP for your poor little seedlings, Steve. Next time it will work for you! David, As Digit pointed out to me last year when I brought up Sunshine Mix, it and Black Gold are made by the same company! I had no idea. I use Sunshine Mix because I can get it in bales, and because itÂs what everything was planted in at PaulinoÂsÂall the perennials and bedding plants and veggies. Everything except the water plantsÂwhich are planted in clay! They used Sunshine #1, which is what I use to put swap stuff in and any other outdoor plants IÂm starting or putting in pots for any reason, and I use Sunshine #5 for house plants just because it has finer perlite, and I donÂt like big chunks of perlite in my houseplants! But the primary ingredient in all the Sunshine mixes is Canadian peat. Ball Mix was what the first garden center I worked at used, and what my brother in Illinois usesÂbut I donÂt know of anywhere in Colorado where itÂs available retail in any size, small or bales. But the Ball mixes, from my experience, are virtually the same as the Sunshine mixes. IÂm sorry you didnÂt like it. And when Digit posted about the Sunshine and Black Gold coming from the same place, I got curious and tried to look up Miracle Gro, and couldnÂt find anywhere on their site where they listed the ingredients! And that may very well explain why some people seem very happy with it and others kill everything when they use it. IÂve never used it, but as IÂve heard from other folks who have, apparently if varies widely from batch to batch, and IÂve even heard, at times, that it seems to contain a high volume of sedge peatÂwhich I believe is the primary ingredient in Hyponex. I canÂt imagine trying to grow anything in sedge peat, a/k/a muck, so I strongly recommend staying away from Miracle Gro. Or, to put it in other words, itÂs a Miracle if your stuff GroÂs in Miracle Gro! So maybe you just got a bad batch of potting mix, Steve, and IÂm glad somebody on the other forum had some helpful info for you. Happy trees to you........ Skybird Here is a link that might be useful: Sun Gro Horticultural Products...See MoreDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agopolygonum_tinctorium
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agooakiris
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoDan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agooakiris
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agopolygonum_tinctorium
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agolattefairy
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agopolygonum_tinctorium
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agomstywoods
12 years agolast modified: 9 years agoDiane Romano
3 years agotreebarb Z5 Denver
3 years agopopmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
3 years agoJerry (Broomfield CO 5)
3 years agopopmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
3 years ago
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