I agree about taking the bottom branches to match, BUT as I understand, the tree has recently been transplanted, so I believe I would leave the branches for a year or so to let the newly planted tree become completely established in it new home. It has already suffered the shock of transplant and the loss of some of its branches, no need to further stress it by removing more branches.

I have never really read up too much on plumerias so I have done some things with mine just to see what would happen. I had one a couple of years ago get the green tip broken off and my girl friend just stuck the tip in a pot when it happened (well maybe 30 minutes or so afterwards) I now have a plant about 3 ft tall from that tip that wasn't much more than an inch long. It hasn't bloomed yet but it has been growing since we moved it outside back towards the end of april. I think they are alot tougher than people give them credit for. I don't do much at all with regards to mine and they are always blooming. I have never repotted them or anything, just bring them into a dark room in the winter. Need to repot a large portion of them soon, they are getting 5 to 6 feet tall with lots of branches. I live in south Georgia with HOT and HUMID summers, already this week we have been around 100 degrees with upwards to 85% or higher humidity...maybe that is why they do so good here in the summer time and grow so fast. Mine root real fast (the ones I have done this year did so within a week or so it seems) and put on leaves fast also. I think I let my cuttings this year go unplanted for a few days. Further more I don't think I have ever fertilized one....In my younger days I spent alot of time in central america and the places I saw them grow had very thin and unfertile soil but lots of heat and humidity. I know this probably doesn't help you much other than to point out that they are a whole lot tougher than alot of people seem to think.

Andrew, I typically like to clean up the break on both the branch and the parent plant. Let the parent plant dry out once you have cleaned up the break and then seal with caulk or pruning sealer or liquid electrical tape. I use George's "Citizen Insane" pre rooting method...Once I cleanly cut the broken branch I like to dip it into rooting hormone so along with the sap it creates a "crust" then place in a humidity chamber or cover it with mulch in a box to callus. You can also wrap it with a damp shop rag/towel and leave it alone for a couple of weeks if you are pressed for time or space. Just find a way to let it heal in a high humidity warm location. By the time its callused you will probably need a heat mat to help it root. So if you dont have one of those you should go ahead and order it or buy locally. After that its just a matter of the bag method or the clear cup method. Either one should work. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

I don't have a lot of experience with them myself, but it should root for you. I would dip it into some rooting hormone, and try rooting it in a nice light soil with not too much moisture. Maybe remove some of the lower leaves so its not trying to make roots and keep foliage alive. I'm sure you'll get some really good advice here though, from others who have more experience rooting them. It won't die overnight, what you're doing now will keep it going for a while.