If you still have the 2 small cuttings of the Plumeria cuttings I would be interested in them. Kindly consult my trading list and let me know if you are interested. PLEASE put in your e-mail to me only the word "GardenWebber" in the subject area to keep your e-mail to me out of my junk pile. THANK YOU!

Hi I'm new to this also. I tried a Temple Plumeria last year and it died when I winterized it. It shriveled because I watered it too much. Thought I'd try again and got 2 Hawaiian Plumerias. They looked good when I got them. They both have to stems like a sling shot look. 1 had small leaves on it and the other just had the nobs at the ends and looked purple. Now the one with the nobs look like they are turning darker and dying and the other 2 leaves fell off and the other 2 claw looking things are still purple. The thing is how is it getting neutrients if you can't water them? Mine are not drying out at the bottom. I leave them on bricks during the day. The black pot feels like it's cooking them. I have 3 different sets of directions. I'm sorry that I didn't read Plumeria 101 first.I just planted them in regular soil with a little Peralite. But added more after I read the site. If anyone can help me I would really like to get this one to grow. I feel like I should water it because half the pot is sooo dry. Thanks Maril

I grew 3 Plumies in pots for about 6 years while living in NY. They grew well but did need large pots. I am not an expert and can share what I did which worked for me. Mine spent all summer outdoors gradually moved to the sunniest spot possible (on my deck). I say gradual because you will burn the plant if you put it in full sun after spending the winter indoors. So bump up the light gradually. I was not fussy about soil. I used a mix of Miracle Gro, cactus soil and small wood chips. I also added perlite. The idea is to keep the mix free draining but loamy enough to hold some moisture so you don't have to water every day. I would move my trees inside when there was danger of frost or the night temps dropped below 50 consistently. If there is just one night or two below 50 they are okay. But when the nights stay cold, bring them in or you can get rot. Indoors I tried two methods. The first 4 years I forced them into dormancy by removing the leaves and putting them in a crawl space in the basement. I stopped watering and left them until March. I would move them to a sunny window and they would start to leaf out. They stayed indoors until the weather settled above 60's. The years following this, I moved them inside and grew them under floor lamps. Most were budded and I didn't want to lose the flowers. They grew well under the lights and I got the flowers. Spider mites are their enemy and appear every winter. No matter what I did I got them. Even when they were leafless, they had webs all over. It sounds like you have them. If your tree is still outside, hit the plant with the hose and wash them off. They will return when you move the tree inside. You can try heavy duty insecticides, but I don't like using those inside the house. I did use an oil spray which seemed to keep them at bay until Spring. Once the trees go outside the spider mites go away. Good luck, Jane

I'd like to keep you up to date and thank those people that gave advice so far. Though only 3 days have past since the last post and the pictures, I'd like to provide a new picture of the third cutting because I think it starts to build some nice callous, as the cut face started to "swell" somehow. Shortly after recutting the stem the inner and outer stuff contracted while the thin wodden-like "ring" remained as is. This still can be seen on the first picture of cutting 3 - the thin ring is sticking out. Todays picture clearly shows that the inner and outer stuff overtop the ring. The other two cuttings unfortunately don't show this promising behaviour. I will give all three of them another couple of days before potting them.