Well, you'll get a lot of differing opinions about whether or not to cut the flower stem (inflo). During rooting, if leaves start to generate, but then stop, I'd cut it off. Or if you've got lots of other plumeria blooms to enjoy, remove it now. Morning sun might be OK, unless you're in the mid- to upper 90s or low 100s and have very low humidity. In that case I'd probably put it in dappled shade. How long (in inches) is the broken section? The larger the cutting, generally the easier it will be to root...at least anything over 14 inches will be easier than, say, 5-6 inches. Hopefully someone with more 'California' experience will chime in! We have a totally different climate here in Virginia in the summer. We're hazy, hot, and humid, and our night temps usually stay above 65 degrees thru June, July and August. Daytime highs around 80 - 95. So we can usually leave a cutting in full to part sun. The haze cuts down the rays a bit. And we also get rain, so we have to keep cuttings protected from too much moisture. But the humidity is so high that we rarely have to water the soil. They'll root in 'humid' soil just fine!

Hey Freak, I hear what you are saying. I do cut other plant's cuttings at 45 degrees. However, plumerias are different from other plants. Do you ever wonder why plumerias do not naturally grow roots from the side of the bark? Just about every plant on the planet does that. The reason is because plumerias have no way to attach the new roots to the wood. Plumeria roots grow from callus material that eventually turns into wood and encapsulates the old wood. I said encapsulates because it never attaches to the old wood, you can peel the old wood from the new wood like an onion leaf, just like in the picture below. So, in order to form roots you must stimulate the plant to form the cambium callus. The plant cannot form roots without this cambium callus. Also, the plant will not just form this cambium callus out of the blue. Angle cuts only develop roots at the tip because all the rooting energy goes to the lowest point. Square cuts always fill the whole cambium perimeter with roots, period. That is because the whole cut is the lowest point. This is a 3-year old tree. See, it did not develop roots to fill the perimeter of the cambium line. Once the cambium callus turns into wood it would no develop anymore roots. By the way, by understanding what makes these plants tick I am able to defeat this natural tendency of plumerias and I can make them grow roots at will from the side of the bark. Lots of roots and roots that uptake nutrients like in the picture below. I can quadruple the number of roots on a plumeria (more vigorous plants and better stability). I will show these results in a future PSA article. If you really have any evidence that an angle-cut plumeria develops roots to fill the whole cut please post them. And do not just show me a slight angle that is almost square. Show me a 45 or 30 degree cut develop roots throughout the whole cut. I challenged a lot of people over time to do that. Nobody has posted a single picture. Everybody arm waves and argues theories. If you have one, show me. George

Dear Friends, The tree in this thread grew from a cutting I brought back from Maui about 8 years ago. I've kept it alive and reasonably well even in this relatively-cold clime, though it has been plagued, each winter, by spider mites. Due to the climate and the mites, it has only bloomed once, long ago. Then last year the branch was broken that gave rise to this thread and the things I've learned here have helped me make my plumeria a much happier plant. The result is that it is blooming! In addition, I have two cuttings, both of which are putting out new leaf spikes (though I've seen no roots yet and am following directions until I do). So I wanted to share them with you, who have done so much to help make it happen. Thanks again for your time and energy and knowledge and encouragement! If ever we should meet, I shall pour a glass of my homemade pineapple mead for you! Thanks Again and Aloha!

Need help regarding my Plumeria. I bought a 2 branch rooted cutting last spring and it did wonderful aside from a little stress (was dropping older leaves) it showed from the above average temperatures and frequent heavy rains. Anyway, spring seemed to take forever to get her this year so I ended up moving it from the dark corner in the basement and put it under a strong growlight to bring it out of dormancy. It got a late start but within a month I saw leaves begin to emerge from both branches. Once it was warm enough to move outside I accidentally damaged one of the growing tips during the move. It soon showed signs of rot so I cut the tip off about 3 inches below rhe rot. The other branch is doing just fine and Ive been waiting all summer to see what would happen with the branch I cut. Today I noticed a bud starting to emerge from rhe cut stem about 4 inches below the cut. My question is, do I do anything with the extra 4 inches. I'm happy about the new grown but the one branch will always be shorter and I'm not excited about that extra inches of stub above the emerging branch. Can I at some point trim that back further or is it best to just live with the stub?