Rooting experiment..egg vs. heat, sun, etc
Tony10
11 years ago
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11 years agolast modified: 9 years agocitizen_insane
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Drought-tolerant, shallow-rooted, full sun annuals over bulbs?
Comments (12)Crocosmia, I have also had the same problem as you in that bulbs do better in the center of my beds than along the edges. Mine are all interplanted with perennials and even shrubs. I think that this provides them better drainage. I have learned to live with the occasional (well actually fairly frequent) slicing of the bulbs by my shovel. My daffodils are planted in circles or semi-circles, or behind many of my daylilies, especially those that are seen from some distance. The daylilies do a great job of hiding the dying daffodil foliage. I try to leave some room for growth of the daylilies, but in any case the daylilies seem totally unperturbed by the bulbs, even though I am unlikely to give them the foot of space :~) that at botanical garden might - I garden in a small area & everything is crammed. Some orange daylilies I like are Backdraft (orange with red eye), Egyptian Spice (amber orange blend) Orange Velvet, Orange Vols, & Tuscawilla Tiger. There are lots more available! Most of my daffodils, however, are planted around in my red daylily/shrub bed at the back of my yard. In my small orange daylily bed I used a different method that you might find interesting. I use minor bulbs all in shades of blue. Smaller bulbs like Ipheon, Scilla, Chionodoxa, Iris reticulata & such can go much closer to other plantings and only need to be planted 3-4 inches deep. I actually planted all the bulbs when the bed was first made and the daylilies had not been chosen yet, poked them in with my finger. I then partially buried upside down nursery pots in the bed to mark the daylily spots and let the bed rest until the following spring when my daylilies arrived in the mail. It was a sheet of blue in the spring. Many minor bulbs can also go in shade areas around hostas for example which come up very late. If the shade is from deciduous trees, these bulbs can easily finish their cycle, and get enough nourishment to bloom and spread around, before the trees are leafed out. So look around at all those areas too and plant more bulbs! Don't overlook miniature daffodils they can be tucked in here and there and everywhere and the foliage disappears so much faster than full-size daf foliage. Please see my pictures in the thread Tulips return. Over the tulips in the first picture, I usually plant portulaca as someone in this thread mentioned, or some other low water annual. I am always afraid I'll do something stupid and these perennial tulips (still going strong in 4th spring) won't come back for me. Most tulips are strictly annuals in my garden. I also have the tulip area edged in Blue Fescue Grass, and use the small blue Sedum sieboldiana and blue Myrtle spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites) & other dry plants like Geum coccineum borisii (bright orange which you would really like) which do not thrive in my dense wet clay, except in this raised gravel bed. Blue and orange is one of my favorite combinations! And while there aren't many cold zone early spring bulbs in orange, there are plenty of blue, whites & yellows. Tried a pretty in-between size daffodil this year called Bantam that you might like. It's a very neat & compact bright yellow daffodil with a ruffled orange edge on the cup. There are many others with this color, but the size is more unique. Oh, and there are lots of hardy lilies that come in orange, can't forget them. Anyway have fun! Sorry this is so long, I get carried away when I get enthused about things. LOL...See MoreFall vs. Spring JM Root Pruning Report
Comments (2)New root growth occurs in spring when dormant stem buds open and send hormones to the root tips which prompt them to elongate. Roots pruned back in fall (or later) may be expected to more or less just sit there until spring, when they get the chemical signal from the buds. Existing, intact roots elongate in fall, after the winter buds are set. 60% of the annual increase in root length occurs at this time. This is one of the reasons fall is the best time to plant cold hardy stock. If you catch a particular specimen just before it produces the annual fall root push you can have it take hold of the ground on the new site quite nicely - as long as you did not have to correct any root deformities at planting....See MoreWhich is more important - Heat vs. sun
Comments (9)Hi That is a really tough question ,especially this year.lol I never bring anything into the house except for frost except for the understory palms. but they prefer shade anyway and are extremely cold sensitive. It's a trade off no matter which you choose anyway. During bad years I usually just opt to start over come spring. I often found moving them back and forth more harmful than the cold. Most of my palms are way to big to move or cover anyway. Good luck with whichever method you choose lol gary...See MoreWinter Sun vs. Summer Sun Requirements for Conifers
Comments (11)growing hosta in the heat of the day in GA ... and them not scorching to ugly ... tell me what?? .. lol ... he watered a lot ... its really hard to figure out ambient light versus direct sun ... i have grow some conifers in the north side of my house.. and the only direct light they got was near dusk and after dawn .. minis ... they did fine ... because it was open sky above ... it was rather what might be called bright shade ... and i did grow hosta i the same place ... in my MI ... if all other variables are just peachy for your zone 7... [see what i did there..lol ] ... then i suspect you might have more success than you worry about .... but you are probably just going to have to try it ... and roll the dice ... its very hard for anyone to give you spot on advice in your garden in your shade in your GA ... on any definitive basis ... now all that said ... i have had problems in my high humidity hog heat summer MI with various types of very congested pines ... and that might be what junkie was thinking about ... when he made suggestions that werent pine based ... you can overcome some of the pine issues by cleaning them out religiously .. which i never did ... someone else will be able to tell you the name of the disease issue ... maybe plathoforujurasik or something like that .. pretty sure it begins with a P ... but after that.. lol ... soo ... just give it a try ... and try things other than pine ... and become your own local expert ... never stop trying ... ken...See Morecitizen_insane
11 years agolast modified: 9 years agoNo-Clue
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