mrpearson, Not sure what you are ask but I think you want to know were to make the cut when taking cutting off a plant. When you take a branch you should cut the branch a few inches were of come off another branch or trunk. That way new branches can start off below the part you cut. If your asking how long a branch need to be before it's cut. I feel it best to making the cut in hard wood. Say the brown or tan not in the green growth on a limb. Leaving the few inches on the plant will give the plant room to heal. If you cut it off right up on the branch or trunk the cut could let infection and other bad stuff into the wound. Also be sure to clean to tool you use to make the cut after each cut. If your not savng the part it being cut from it doesn't matter cut a way. I have started cutting from 6 inches to 30 just make sure you let it scab over before planting the cutting.
There are some good post on here with pics showing how to take cuttig off larger plants. Take a look around and you'll find it and most other things that are needed to be know when growing these plants.
But we are also here to give you the info also.
Don

Well, for my growing situation, which is much different than people in CA or TX or FL, I prefer to make longer cuttings, because I think they root more easily. The cutting just has more reserves to weather the rooting process. My growing (and rooting) season is shorter, so they need all the help they can get! I take a cutting of from 14 inches to 24 inches in length. If the cutting has several growing tips (which usually indicates a more mature cutting), you might get away with a shorter cutting...at least 12 inches long. I've rooted cuttings that were much shorter though. And some varieties are just easier to root than others. I've rooted 5-inch Aztec Golds with no problem. But may have lost a 12" Puu Kahea. Also, I try to select a cutting that is mostly grayish in color -- this indicates more mature growth. New, softer growth is a bright green color. Very green 'wood' does want to form roots as readily and is much more sensitive to moisture (more prone to rot) in the rooting process. Another important factor is the fresh cutting should be allowed to air dry for a week to several weeks. some say the more difficult-to-root cuttings should be left to air dry longer. Jim Little in his book "Growing Plumeria in Hawaii" suggests another method where he cuts through the branch not quite all the way, and lets the nearly-severed cutting hang from the tree. This way the cut heals but still receives a minimum of sustenance from the mother plant through the 'bark'. After a few weeks it apparently will root more readily. I've never tried this though. Has anyone else??