The sweet potato vines are ornamental so I don't believe you could start with a regular sweet potato from the store. My mom used these a few years ago and raved about them. I found mine at a local hardware store, but I'm sure the Lowe's-type stores here carry them as they are very popular in this area (Southeast). There are several colors, but the chartreuse and dark purple are the most popular. I hate that you can't see that photo. It was the very first photo by Jenny_in_SE_PA. I think it is exactly what you want. The combination of bright green SP vine and dark purple coleus was stunning! Here is a photo of mine at the beginning of last summer: I *think* that is one vine. It might be two, but I'm almost certain I used one sweet potato and one petunia in each pot. By the end of the summer the sweet potato vine was trailing on the ground. I actually had to give it a few haircuts. When our temps hit 105 in July (and the concrete patio and brick retaining wall held in the heat like an oven!), the sweet potato never flinched. I need something taller in my pots and considered some sort of evergreen, conical shrub like an arborvitae, but I think my heat would kill it. Since you're in zone 6, you might have better luck with a permanent shrub. I may experiment with some tall grasses this year. Here's a link showing some containers that use evergreen shrubs along with some other interesting non-flowering plants. http://www.finegardening.com/plants/articles/10-plants-for-year-round-containers.aspx?nterms=74930 At one time I only wanted flowers. Flowers, flowers, and more flowers. Don't get me wrong, I still LOVE flowers, but I've begun to appreciate foliage and texture as well. I think I'm finally maturing a little. (But did I mention that I still love flowers? The gaudier the better?) I think it is fun to think outside the box a little when it comes to container combinations. Have fun with yours! Nin

Normally green manures are tilled in approximately 6-8 weeks prior to planting so they have some time to decompose. Is it possible to plant sooner than that, say a 2 weeks wait instead? Yes if certain adjustments are made. The balance that needs to be maintained between greens and browns, carbons and nitrogens, for the ideal results is a bit complicated so most prefer to just let time take care of it. Let time resolve the nutrient binding process. But when you don't have that time you can compensate for that imbalance by adding additional nitrogen sources. The ideal ratio is basically 3 parts carbons to 1 part nitrogen. Note "basically" as there are many other variables involved too. So by adding additional nitrogen - high N fertilizer in some form - you can offset that binding issue, give the plants the nitrogen they need, and give the soil the time it needs to balance itself out. Then you need to take into consideration the nutrient needs of plants you will be planting in that early bed. They need to be nitrogen lovers like leafy greens and cole crops, not low-tolerance for nitrogen plants like legumes, peppers, or root crops. Wait on planting them until the vetch decomposition is well along and the soil balance has begun to stabilize. Normally not a problem as most of those plants have very different planting times anyway. Following me? In the future either till in much earlier or don't till, just mow and let it decompose on the top of the soil. Dave

I do have Miracle Gro and was using that until I got the Neptune's Harvest about three months ago. I could start using it again, but frankly I didn't see any real difference. I figured it would be okay to use it until it's gone, because now that it's bought it's going into the environment no matter what I do with it, no matter whether it gets dumped on my garden, down the drain, or in a landfill. But I really thought that Neptune's Harvest would be better all around. Not only gentler but more effective than Miracle-Gro. They also have fertilizer specifically for tomatoes. The tomatoes are in containers. I could either put them on the porch next to the house, or I could carry them inside. They're rather heavy, though, and it might be a problem keeping the cats off them. (The cats actually outnumber the tomato plants.) I could also move them to where they could get more sun. I have a shed, but I don't know how much protection that would be, and they'd get no light. I have a cold frame that I still have to put together. I could put that over the melons and maybe add a week or two. It's doubtful that would be enough, but who knows, I may luck out. Broccoli can freeze solid and still survive, although if it's frozen it can't grow. But brassica are hardy enough that I might actually get something this year. The potatoes were a little late going in, but not more than a week or two. I'm sure I'll get potatoes this year. The zukes and maters are iffy, but with luck and some protection, I wouldn't rule them out. It's possible I could get a couple. The melons...well, it's kind of a matter of pride now. I'll keep them going for as long as I can, and if nothing else, that'll teach me what the hot hats and cold frame can do.

Your welcome Carrie :) I just loved loved that Clarkia/Godetia this year...it just never stopped blooming. They were also self-sown this year...Tiffy (Nicole) if your reading; I hope they will self-sow in your garden too; I just finished getting your Clarkia/Godetia in your package :) Tammy, The Max Sunflower would definitely grow that tall, but I cut them back once the hit about 3' (in a rounded fashion...taller in the middle and going shorter as you do the sides, front and back). When they are cut back they only get to about 6' at the tallest point and are much fuller for it; bloom begins the first week in October. I've been cutting them back since the beginning....the first year I cut them back 2x...once at 12" (just pinched out) and then again at 2.5'. The very first pinch given helps send up lots of new growth at the base so you don't have a tall scrawny gangly 1st year plant...which bloom 1st year BTW. Plants not cut back bloom earlier...like in July. The plants form tuberous roots and in spring you can tell how many stems will be produced by viewing the small reddish eyes (sorta like looking at peony)growing out of it. The cut back to follow will cause more stems to form from each of those shoots/stems.