Two Plumeria, same splitting trunk
Aloha,
The photos will show 2 of 4 plumeria cuttings that I started in March, 2007. These 2 started behaving the same, almost from the very start, thru the first blooms, and their splitting trunks. They both rooted very quickly, grew tall in a hurry, started blooming within weeks of each other this year, split into 2 tips at the inflorescence, and, at some point began splitting at the base of the trunk. They are not of the same variety, btw, although the flower characteristics are very similar.
Here are the two, side by side (the 2 on the left).
The first, I am referring to as Polynesian Red, after researching for an ID.
{{gwi:580784}}
The second is a noid pink. Help out with the ID if you can, btw. Thanks.
Any ideas on why these 2 plants, out of the 20 that I own, are doing this? The splits seem to be healing well, so it may not even be a big deal. I think the similarities of the 2 plants are very interesting.
Mahalo,
Bob
Comments (7)
cambodja
15 years agotdogdad
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Tree pruning question and advice on two trunks
Comments (20)I think this is one instance where properly dressing the wound might be beneficial. I'm often the first one to say that, under normal circumstances, tree dressing/sealer should not be used. The presence of oak wilt makes this a special circumstance. The jury is still out on this but seems to be coming down on the side to use sealer. In a recent USDA pamphlet on Oak Wilt, they write... "Tree paints are normally not recommended for general use, but in this instance use of these products can protect trees from oak wilt. In the North, if trees are wounded during the dormant season tree paints are not necessary, but judicious use during the rest of the year is acceptable. From Missouri to Texas, tree paint should be used immediately after trees are wounded, at any time of the year." Here is an ISA published study that concludes that... "Pruning paints and proper pruning are considered to be important measures to further minimize the likelihood of an (oak wilt) infection and promote tree health." Link to ISA paper: Studies on Pruning Cuts and Wound Dressings for Oak Wilt Control Here is a link that might be useful: Identify, Prevent, and Control Oak Wilt...See Morelong split in the trunk of my tree
Comments (15)This is a frost/drought crack, not sunscald, which causes a broader dead area under the bark. These cracks are problematic. I have little experience with them on such small trees, but I see them frequently in my timberland. and because I do logging, I can often trace the history of these cracks and how they "heal," or more usually fail to do so. (Tree physiologists--note my use of quotation marks around the word "heal" in this application.) In some cases these cracks will disappear over time as new wood grows over them and the two sides of the crack are joined, but it seems to me that more often these cracks stay open, either because of flexing of the trunks of the trees in the wind, or because whatever structural weakness caused the crack persists and keeps it open. Now what I am talking about here is my observations of large forest timber sized trees. Smaller trees may have a better ability to recover from these cracks. But even with my forest trees, these cracks don't often result in the death of these trees any time soon. Some trees survive with these cracks for several decades. When I see these cracks in a timber tree in my woods, I will generally cut it down because continued growth of the tree will not result in the production of much more valuable wood. Not only is the crack itself a defect that prevents the cutting of valuable lumber from that side of the tree, but the crack usually results in the staining of the surrounding wood. But for an ornnmental tree, those things are not a problem. If you are uncomfortable with some marginally doubtful prospects for the future health of this tree, yes, have it replaced. But if it were my tree I would wait at least three years and see if the tree shows signs of repairing this crack. And even if it doesn't, the tree could live for a very long time with this crack. --Spruce...See MoreRepair of wind damage tree and split trunk
Comments (14)I agree with Tn_Tree_Man that a drop-crotching/reduction cut would be the preferred solution for this situation. But, if you do decide to keep the split crotch for a while (it's not gonna last forever), I would rework that rodding job. It's hard to tell scale by the picture, but it looks like you could go up in size just a little. Go get you a stainless steel threaded rod (I'd probably use two) a little larger than what you have. They should be hard to find, and somewhere like Graingers carries them, if they aren't available at your nearest big-box store. The next change would be to carefully trace around the washers (similar to what you have now or thicker) with a knife and remove the bark under the washers. You want those washers against xylem (not the bark), and I would try to embed the washers so the outer edge is approximately equal with the outer edge of bark. This will give you a lot better support and allow the tree to start covering over that wound (and the hardware). One you get the washers seated properly, cut the rod off flush with the outer edge of the nuts. In a short time, the tree will cover over the hardware and rodding wound, but your crotch is still gonna be a magnet for rot. Maybe you'll get a decade or so out of that trunk before significant rot leads to failure....See More911 Please help, what is wrong with the Trunk of my Plumeria?
Comments (9)I agree. I wouldn't really worry about it they're very hardy plants. I have a plant thats trunk is ripped in half and it still fine. it's flowering at the moment. Yours just really looks like sunburn. When they are sunburnt the trunk tends to split and turn into a brown color....See Morefuninthesunincl
15 years agolopaka_mikale
15 years agoMelodi G
last yearHello, my Plumeria trunk is splitting too ? Anyone know what I can do to help it. No rocks here. It seems healthy-ish… Maybe I overwatered or could it be a sunburn? (that side gets the most sun) It’s been in the same location since I planted it 2+ years ago… Would appreciate advice 🌺.
Maria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)
last yearI believe it’s related mostly to tissue swelling during periods of heavy rains / excess water. I say this because it happened to one of mine during a particularly rainy season. The same happened to a few echinopsis cactus, as well. Just watch it to make sure it heals well and rot doesn’t set in. A little fungicide powder will help.
Here is an article to consider.https://thefloweringgarden.com/why-is-my-plumeria-trunk-splitting/
Jim Little ”Intense Rainbow”
Maria Elena (Caribbean - USDA Zone 13a)