First thing I would advise is to move the palm to a window. That corner is not going to provide it enough light. I can't really tell from the picture, but it looks like it might be a majesty palm, in which case, there's little hope, because those things aren't house plants and will almost never grow for you in the house. But if it's not a majesty, try moving it so it can get more light. Now, about the soil moisture. First, if there are drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, and it's a fairly new plant, the problem isn't drainage. If there aren't drainage holes, you need to get it into a pot with drainage. Second, over watering or under watering is a problem that takes place over a period of time, not right after you water. The object of testing the soil moisture, as I show in my videos, is to figure out the moisture level all through the plant, that is, all the way to the bottom of the pot, and use that information to decide whether or not it's time to water again. Palms like their soil to be slightly damp, soft and cool feeling, before more water is added, but not so damp that the soil sticks together hard when you squeeze it. If you always let the soil (all the way through the pot, remember,) aerate to the prescribed stage, you'll never overwater. When it reaches the soft and cool stage (1/2 way between "dry" and "moist" on a moisture meter,) it's time to water. Don't let the plant sit around with dry soil, because that stresses them, so you want to water as soon as the soil aerates enough. When you water, always water so that you get a runoff from the drainage holes of 1/2 - 1", then let the plant sit in the drainage water. If you always water as soon as the soil is ready, and you always water enough for runoff, you'll never underwater. If you want to talk about this more, or it's not clear to you, please ask more questions, I'll be glad to go over it with you.

I'm in the Orlando area which is Zone 9D. Foxtails do fine in zone 9D. The last freeze was in 2010. If temps go to 27 degrees or lower your foxtails will die. I think the issue here is that most foxtails are grown in two areas of Florida in palm tree fields. If you have palms installed directly from the fields you'll have to water constantly and fertilize constantly. When palms are dug from the fields where they're grown they leave 70% of their nutrients in the field. If you want huge palms then you're going to have to have it come from a field. Reputable palm tree growers have learned that foxtails need to be taken from fields and immediately wrapped in plastic (emulating a pot) and then watered and fed aggressively before being sold and installed in a customers yard. Very few growers do this so you have a few choices. The best choice is to go with the largest pot grown foxtail you can find. Also, on any palm tree...If you see the very center fronds turn brown then the tree will die completely. Foxtails are self-cleaning meaning the fronds will drop on their own and you don't need to pay to have them trimmed. So there's no reason for the middle fronds to be accidentally trimmed. So if they turn brown it's not due to your landscaping service. They need to be fed three times a year and they grow very! So it's best to go with a container grown foxtail rather than a field grown one since they're fast growing. We're getting ready to have three planted and I'm going all the way to south Florida to get mine from growers who don't plant them immediately after harvesting them from the fields. You really do have do to your homework on palm trees. We almost went with ribbon palms because of the freeze factor with foxtails but it's been decades since we've had a hard freeze and if we lose them to a freeze it's our fault. If you buy them and lose them for any other reason then it could be your fault if you don't water them daily until they're established and fertilize more than 3 times a year for a while. They're beautiful palms and under the right circumstances they'll grow fine in Orlando. Be careful where you source them and ask questions!

Thanks to all the follow-ups. Great advice. We do feed the palms and fertilize...had our gardener start doing it regular once a month. I'll pick up the 3in1, thank you! To TAMPA...yeah..we think our palms look great, too...no frizzle top and all green, but those two smaller ones. It did really freeze hard core this past year. Maybe those smaller two were more susceptible. We've been getting our monsoon over here...lots of wind, rain, and humidity! LOVE IT. Although, my poor palms get blown around like crazy when that wind picks up! Thanks again guys/gals!!

If you went from a 9 1/4" pot to a 12", that's large enough for now. I'd be more worried about over watering with the soil type you have. i have a 6 foot f. benjamina that's in similar soil (not moisture control though). since the best time to repot would be around June, I've had to leave it that soil for the winter. But I've drilled a few hundred holes all over the sides of the pot, propped it up a few inches off the ground and installed wicks into the soil to help drain perched water (thanks to Al for all of that). Just saying, there are things that can be done to "get away" with that type of soil until a full repot can be done with correct soil at the right time of year. if the plant has spider mites, you'll see tiny brown, black or red specks. Look to see if they move. If the infestation is severe, check all other plants too. Spraying weekly with a 50/50 water / 70% isopropyl alcohol mix should at least keep their numbers down. But you have to really drench all of the fronds, top and bottom along with stems. Lastly, about the light, I know you say it receives direct and indirect sunlight, but as mentioned, if the plant is not directly in front of that southern window, it's most certainly not recieving enough light.