I feel for you! I've been fighting the battle against white fly and aphids which arrived along with the heat wave. It attacked my moonflowers, nasturtiums and basil. Eventually all the nasturtium plants but one have been thrown out. The basil I'd planted looks much like yours and I have more ready to go in but am delaying until this is under control. I don't know what anyone else would suggest but if it helps I'll share but I've done: I used small amount of mild soap and water in spray container and sprayed undersides of leaves too. Next I put out a dish of cider vinegar with a bit of dish soap and mixed it, covered with saran wrap and poke a few holes in top - that way flies get in but can't get out. I put the dish in the middle of the container pot where I'd noticed the flies in the soil. So far got a couple and haven't seen others - doesn't mean they're gone - just haven't seen the critters. This year I couldn't get to a garden centre where they had ladybugs but YES!! By far in my experience, the best natural pest control. If I'd had that remedy I wouldn't have done quite as much tossing out. The one plant I'm really worried about is the rose (I have only one). I planted garlic in with it and in the moonflowers & of course it will take some time to grow but I'm hoping the scent will put off the bugs. A friend gave me some of her chives - also another good companion plant. Hope you can get the upper hand.

Timmy1: I know that legginess is caused by not enough light. . .what kind of nutrient deficiency would cause the yellow tips? doof: It's good to hear someone say that it looks good. . .I've decided not to prune the suckers, I'd rather have as many tomatoes as I can get, even if they're a little smaller. wvtomatoman: Thank you for clearing that up about the wilt. The top branches just seem so much more droopy than the others, and I know it's not a lack of water (the soil was moist 2 or 3 inches down. It's not on the end of a row; that's why it's weird to me. On one side of it is an Oregon Spring plant that set fruit when it was only about a 18" tall (but very bushy). That Oregon Spring now has 15 tomatoes of various sizes on it's tiny little frame. On the other side of it is a Green Zebra that's growing very densely. The German Orange Strawberry seems to be the only one really reaching for light like that, but it could also be that the others are putting more energy into flower production, and will start "reaching" later when they kick back into their growth mode. blazepepper: Thanks for the kind words. As I said, this is my first time doing this and my main concern was that it was a communicable disease that might infect my other plants. ebrodzinski: That's what I thought too. . .that it looks like fertilizer burn. I've never used chemical fertilizers on them, only E.B. Stone's organic tomato food (see link below) that was recommended by someone at the local nursery. I applied it a little more often than the instructions recommended, but the last application was over a month ago. I guess, from reading these responses, that I won't worry about it too much. I'll just keep talking to 'em sweetly, and soon I will be in the joyous rapture of beautiful homegrown tomatoes! Here is a link that might be useful: E.B. Stone Organics Tomato and Vegetable Food

There are no visible bugs and no signs of citrus leaf miner, so use a hand lens to see if there are smaller insects, or wait and see. From uccemg.com Leaf curl If the leaves on your citrus are curling, there are three common possibilities: 1. Some insect pests will cause some leaf curl. In spring, aphids might do this on soft new leaves. Look inside the curl for presence of insects. If none are present, consider 2 or 3 below. 2. Overwatering can cause leaves to curl or cup INWARD. Also, stress from very hot weather will cause leaf cupping 3. Sometimes leaves will cup DOWNWARD in the late fall or early winter. This is not a problem to worry about, as the new growth will come out with normal shaped leaves in the spring. Here is more to consider: leaf damage in citrus

I see nothing wrong with your tree that would require any treatment. There are some blemishes on the leaves but that looks more physiological than any sort of disease or insect problem. There might have been some early aphid activity but don't see any sign of them now - aphids often attract ants. Regardless of the cause, the tree will be fine. FYI, the Bonide sulphur spray is intended to be used as a fungicide. It will have no affect on any insect problems, should they arise. Any apples the tree produces should be fine. You do have a pollination partner for it?