Arborvitae and green giant turning greyish
marquiskissel1
9 years ago
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marquiskissel1
9 years agomarquiskissel1
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Arborvitae Green Giant
Comments (18)For deep shade, isn't Magnolia Grandiflora a good choice for a privacy screen in shade? I don't know how they do in zone 6, but down here, they are are the common plant for privacy plantings. I think there are some varieties suitable for "zone pushing." There are some threads on gardenweb that discuss the success of different varieties of M. grandiflora raised northward. Resist the temptation to trim off the lowest limbs on magnolias! Whatever plant you choose, if you have the room, site your plants in a zig-zag fashion rather than a straight line. The straight line just never looks natural of course, and fails as a formal planting as well, because the trees never grow evenly. Maybe the experts will chime in on whether M. grandiflora is a good idea for a zone six privacy screening in shade. If not, maybe some holly varieties? I know they're not conifers... Terry...See MoreWhat's wrong with my Green Giant Arborvitae
Comments (2)Good man, that's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you...See MoreGreen giant arborvitae turning orange
Comments (8)dont confuse its CONES.. with growth points look at a green branch .... they end in green tips ... i think you are looking at groups of cones ... the tag is still on it.. is this a rather large RECENT transplant.. at the links above.. it is repeatedly stated that transplant increases this .... as well as other things i right clicked the links to open in a new window.. and they did not enlarge.. but when i just clicked them.. they opened large in a new window .. go figure.. learn something new every day .. lol ken...See MorePropagating Thuja Green Giant Arborvitae
Comments (3)Woody plants are particular about when they propagate best from cuttings. I'm a professional propagator, and I can't think of one that offers uniform success just any ol' time you take a cutting. Conifers typically propagate best in winter, using the previous summer's growth. Six to eight weeks is fairly reasonable for roots to strike. This means that new roots are visible; they may be quite vigorous or may be just starting. It can take longer, though; don't give up for 10-12 weeks. Do begin feeding the rooted cuttings when rooting is actively underway. And don't transplant on until you have a good vigorous root system grown. No mist because flat-leaved types like junipers, arborvitaes and such can get fungal problems when the foliage is kept wet. In my experience, the most important factor besides timing is correct medium (fast draining is imperative) and enough water and fertilizer. Tent the cuttings if they're on heat and you don't have them in a naturally humid situation like a greenhouse. But leave the tent partially open, not closed. The brown edges indicate stress. Could be due to many causes, including wrong timing. I'd try again in winter. Soeur...See Moremarquiskissel1
9 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years agomarquiskissel1
9 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years agoronalawn82
9 years agomarquiskissel1
9 years ago
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