Arborvitae Green Giant
mombay
16 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
16 years agoconifers
16 years agoRelated Discussions
How close to Arborvitae I can plant shrubs?
Comments (1)hi alina .... your question sounds like you are a newbie .... FIRST THING .... gardens are NOT static ... you plant things.. they live.. they die.. and you move things around over the years ... a planned garden is a plan that last one year... the next year... well if you make mistakes ... you have to fix them .. so don't get to wound up in making the perfect plan ... moving your plants.. is easy if done at the right time of year.. and getting your hands in the soil is what makes your thumbs turn green ... SECOND ....use google.. and google images page .. to search out the plants you are interested in .. and see pix of how big things get .... GG are HUGE TREES .... in later life... for the first 5 or 10 years.. you can plant anything near them.. but in 10 or 20 years... they may be buried by the tree .... look for Degroots spire for a thin conifer that will give you height with minimum width ... allowing for the garden you dream of ... i don't know your zone.. as i am not sure the 1 by your name indicates such .. or you might be in the arctic ... i have 5 acres ... and i planted GG ... if you are in suburbia .... GG might be way out of your allotted space ... emerald green .. take forever for vertical growth .. and you might not get the height you need in your lifetime... in my experience .... i guess what i am trying to express ... is don't let the potential of what might happen in 20 years .. stop you from planting things that make you happy now... you can always fix it later.. that is what gardening is all about.. IMHO ... good luck ken...See MoreBest Fertilizer for Green Giant Arborvitae (Thuja Green Giant)
Comments (5)A friend of mine planted about 100 Green Giants about three years ago. They were about 18-24" tall when he planted them. Green Giants are pretty deer resistant, but where my friend and I live there are just too many deer in a small area (island) for that to mean much. The first year he planted these 100 Green Giants, the deer destroyed about 25 of them. After he replaced them, I recommended that he start using Milorganite fertilizer around the trees to keep the deer away. (It's an unadvertized fact that Milorganite acts as a deer repellent.) He started dumping Milorganite around the base of the trees on the perimeter of his property and the following year those were nearly 2ft. taller than the other trees (same growing conditions). Needless to say he started using it around all the Green Giants and this year some of the ones that he started using it on first are taller than me (6ft.). I started using Milorganite on my lawn a few years ago to keep the deer away that were eating my plants and it did wonders for my lawn. I started dumping it around all my perennials, mixing it in with the potting soil for my annuals, and tilling it into my vegetable garden. Everything improved! The stuff is like the Frank's Red Hot commercial... I put that s*#& on everything! I'm not sure it's the "best" fertilizer for your Green Giants, but it's definitely good. In the past I was always afraid to fertilize because I'd overdone it too many times and killed/burned too many plants and lawn. Milorganite is organic, so you can't really use too muich... it will just sit there on/in the soil until the soil microorganisms can consume it. Good luck!...See Moregood wind break tree in the desert
Comments (11)The best trees are the ones growing natively in your area. Once established they require ZERO care except in the most severe droughts. But some are understory trees at least when young meaning they start out under a "nurse" tree that provides some shade, increased humidity and wind protection. When you take a tree out of the pot and plant it out by its lonesome that can be a problem. I am not sure what you can do about that beyond possibly erecting a temporary western shade structure or planting a tiered screen of groundcover, shrubs, trees. If you buy trees at a nursery you often find them under a shade tree. They are conditioned to that environment and need to be hardened off by gradually increasing their sun exposure over a period of 2 weeks before transplanting. Secondly, they are growing in a pot, then find themselves in the ground. Two very different soil conditions. In a container the soil is rapidly draining and the nursery fertilizes it periodically to replace the nutrients that are washed out. Controlled waterings. While your area is also rapidly draining it likely is poor in carbon and maybe nitrogen. It may be high in salt and pH. "were brittle and dead within 3 months (even though they received ample water). And I don't think they got over watered -- especially considering that they are planted in very sandy soil." Sounds like under watering to me or root rot from over watering or lack of root development (not likely since they haven't blown over---unless you stake them). Could also be root disease like nematodes. Again natives are resistant to such things. How did you determine "ample?" "The ones that are alive are brown and with excessive foliage having dyed off. I assumed it was the cold, but maybe not. I planted some in the summer and the exact same thing happened (one was dead before the cold ever set in and the others had most its foliage turn brittle)." Sure sounds like dessication or lack of water uptake/availability to me. Young plants need to be watered frequently to a depth of 3 feet until roots are established. Sandy soil so you must water frequently, but most water applied goes straight down fast and doesn't spread out. Additionally at 5,500 feet evaporation is increased as is solar intensity. Add dry winds. Is there a surface mulch? A rock mulch might help to raise surface temp, cut evaporation and block competing weeds. What kind of trees natively grow in the area? What kind of successful non-natives do you see and how are they cared for? Hopefully your trees were planted at an appropriate depth in the pot and then in the ground? Hopefully the roots weren't circling the pot at the time of planting or were cut or straitened out? I would carefully excavate the dead ones and examine the roots for formation, planting depth and galls/knots. As I linked your local Co. Exchange agent or MGs (and the incredible Arboreum) are more familiar with your situation and can advise and diagnose. A certified arborist landscaper may prove cheaper in the long run to plan and plant. This post was edited by Fascist_Nation on Thu, Apr 3, 14 at 14:57...See MoreNew Privacy screen
Comments (7)The Best Laid plans of mice and men My neighbor has started to raise a stink. The trees are right on the property line and yesterday she came over and did some hack pruning on the Yew I am saving to "show me that it could look nice" She also said that I can not take down the Hemlock with woolly adelgid even though she will expect me to treat it (It is fully on her property). She protested about removing the Leylands but agreed in the end if no one entered her property. I think her kids are in her ear. anyway, that leaves me with about 20 feet to plant. Here are the plants that I liked at the Nursery I use. Picea Omorika Picea Orientalis Juniperus Virginiana 'Taylor' Cryptomeria Yoshino Cedarus Deodor I think I can plant two and maybe squeeze in the Cedar just outside the drip line of the Hemlock. I like Hemlock but it is limbed up already and the power line boys have butchered it and it took massive storm damage. If I did not have a 70+ footer of my owner I would let the Adelgid take care of it. Thoughts? I am thinking 2 Spruce and 1 Cedar but it will be crowded since those Spruce closer than 8' is going to get competitive. Cheers, Carl...See Morepineresin
16 years agoEmbothrium
16 years agomombay
16 years agoEmbothrium
16 years agowisconsitom
16 years agoGrancru
16 years agopineresin
16 years agovancleaveterry
16 years agotorreya-2006
16 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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16 years agowisconsitom
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