Could be quack grass or goose grass as well. Whatever it is, I just spray it with Acclaim from Lesco. Sometimes it takes two applications though. I started seeing this exact thing popping up when it was too early for crabgrass. The only thing with Acclaim is it's about $80 for a 16oz bottle. But, at least for me and how much I'd have to spray, I only use .50oz per gallon, and usually only use one gallon twice per season at the most. So that 16oz bottle will last me for quite a long time theoretically. Long enough to average out and have it be worth the cost.

Franklin, from "wikipedia", "Vermin is a term applied to various species regarded as pests or nuisances, and especially to those associated with the carrying of disease". Since in the house these wee buggers are considered pests (vermin) that would not change simply because they are around the compost pile. Since the larva that become the adults we love to hate need a very moist environment to hatch and grow their presence at a compost pile indicates that that compost is too wet.

I just don't get where the customer is almost always getting blamed for being unhappy with front loader performance in this country. Or the new HE "almost no water" top loaders. Or the typical top loaders that dumb down water temps and select water levels for you. Give me a break...it's always the customer and never a flawed design...really? Look at the physics of a front loader with our insane laws combined. Then there's the "new" HE top load machines. Laws of physics will tell you gravity won't allow the water to properly get to the top where it needs to be. I don't care what these companies try to cliam. Many of the people working at the appliance stores where these were sold and who have purchased these, have dumped them and gone back to an old fashioned top load. At least this is what they are telling me. I'd take a front loader any day over those. At least they tumble the laundry into the water...what little water there is. Doing laundry is basically a no brainer chore. I don't buy the number of complaints in the USA are all due to customer error. There are stupid people, for sure, but not that many.Doing laundry is not rocket science. The front load machines available in Europe don't seem to have the number of complaints we have here. I have had front loaders since 1997. I'm not impressed. I've purchased and absolutely am thrilled with my new Speed Queen top loader. It gets my clothes clean and fresh with minimal wash times because it actually lets me choose hot water if I want it, and water level. Extra rinse too, if needed. It fills with enough water to actually clean the clothes for a change, and actually rinses them completely.Sorry, but it does take water to clean clothes. Maybe the key is to wear clothing more than once, not try to clean them in minimal water. It spins my towels out as well as my Duet did, and washes as large a load. Does it use more water.? Yes..well, sort of....but I used just as much (or more) washing and rinsing multiple times in my Duet. It sometimes took all day to get a load clean. I NEVER have stinky towels anymore and garden dirt gets out of the knees of my jeans...the first time. With no additives or spray pretreatments. Overall, I am using less water and less energy.Is this a fancy or sexy machine? No, but I don't need sexy or fancy appliances. I also don't need an appliance to do my thinking for me. I'm intelligent enough, thank you. That said, I like being able to wash a king size quilt at home. With the agitator in the top load, I risk quilt damage...it's just a tad too big. Smaller quilts move freely. So now I need a front loader too. Only to wash big quilts. We've been looking at new front load washers and are not impressed. At all. We've decided to put new bearings, a new boot, and rebuild the pump in my old Duet. It's German made and much better than the new ones out there. My husband will do the work and we will essentially have a new machine for a few hundred bucks. Contrary to what Whirlpool says, the bearings can be replaced without replacing the whole drum. One virtue of my old Duet is it did clean quilts well. It gets them wet throughout and they do come out clean, fresh, and well rinsed. However, this cycle actually uses some water. Therafter, I am saving up for a commercial Speed Queen front loader. Sad to say, but most of the washers available in the USA are going downhill fast, and I don't see it getting much better. I only hope we don't have to go back to a wringer washer to get clean clothes from a realiable machine in the future. I know there are many on this forum who are happy with how clean their clothes get and do not understand those of us who are not thrilled with the extreme water restricted machines. Well, maybe it's lifestyle. Maybe their clothes don't really get dirty. Ours do. We hike. We fish. We garden. We fall in mud puddles. We camp in the mountains. We canoe. We maintain our home ourselves. We got rid of our TV and do not miss it one bit. So we need something that is a washing machine. Not a soap, sray, spin, machine. It's time that the consumers out there stop being the scapegoats of all the blame. The fact is for the most part this country is now filled with lots of shoddy products. Hopefully Wall Street will not succeed in destroying Speed Queen so I can get that dream commercial front loader some day (their residential front loaders aren't quite large enough for a king quilt)....because I won't spend a dime on one of the newer ones commonbly available today.

SVB attack primarily squash and gourds but cucumbers and melons are also possible hosts. The adult moth is a 1 1/2-inch wing-span, wasp-like moth that is quite colorful (metallic green-black colors with the hind wings fringed with black and orange hairs and similar colors on the abdomen). They are also called "clear-winged" as the lower 1/2 of the black spread wings are transparent. The moths are day fliers which hatch shortly after normal planting time (early to mid-June) from pupae (dark brown, 5/8th inch long, and found in an earthen cell) overwintered in the soil. They lay single eggs which are a dull red to rose in color, 1/25th inch in diameter and glue them to the stalks and underside of the stems of squash vines around the base of the plants. Within 5-7 days the eggs hatch and the larve, a 1" white, heavy-bodied grub with a dark head then burrows into the stem of the plant where they feed till grown enough to burrow out and into the soil to pupate. The stem and then the rest of the plant quickly withers and dies. A classic sign of burrowing is a "sawdust-like" yellow frass pile near the base of the stem. In most parts of the country there is but one annual cycle, but midwestern states in zones 6 and 7 may experience a partial second hatch in late July. CONTROL: Non-chemical controls include timed-planting according to the hatch dates in your area (info available from your County AG agent or note your dates for future reference). Early and late crops (after mid-July) are seldom affected by SVB. In addition, the use of polyester row covers to prevent moth's access to the plants. The covers can be removed briefly at bloom time to allow for pollination but retaining the covers and hand-pollination is recommended. Planting resistant varieties also helps. Certain varieties offer more resistance to and tolerance of borer attack. According to University of Illinois the most tolerant varieties are: White Bush Scallop, Acorn, Summer Crookneck, Dickenson pumpkin, Green Striped Cushaw, and Butternut. The least tolerant varieties are Hubbards, Golden Delicious, Sugar and Small Varietal Pumpkin, and most all zucchni. After the borer enters the vines, home gardeners may use a sharpened wire to seek out and kill each tunneling larva; or may be able to slit the stem lengthwise with a pocket knife, remove and destroy the larvae, press the stem back together and cover with soil. In many cases the plant will heal and survive the injury if the damage is not extensive. Syringe injection of BT (bacillus thur.) into the stem will also kill the grub. To reduce the number of borers for the next year, destroy crop residue after harvest, rotate planting site, and a 2-3" deep fall and spring till is quite effective at destroying overwintering pupae. Chemical controls require a weekly preventive treatment applied to the basal three feet of the plant as soon as the vines begin to run. Some recommend either the insecticide methoxychlor or malathion Always follow the manufacturer's directions carefully including "days till harvest". And, since recommended application dates vary from zone to zone and success of treatment depends on early and repeated treatment, contact your county Extension office for current pesticide controls and application dates recommended in your area. Once the larvae have entered the stem, insecticides have little effect.