I happened to read something about them being late emerging, the fasciated scape thingy, Jo, you remember that, when they send up the scape because they are really late emerging. Or that is what I got out of it. Remember that Fair Maiden had a short scape with the first eye that opened on mine? And honest to goodness, that little hosta is GORGEOUS! It reminds me of a tiny Sagae or something like that, such a beautiful creamy white margin and every eye perfect. I cannot believe it is a small. YOU put me on to Fair Maiden, Don, just like Peter The Rock, and Mr. Watson. Both of those arrived today VERY pleased to see you getting some green in your garden. I love to see how hosta grow in other places. Especially when I'm not the one doing the manual labor. :)

Thank you everyone! Alex, that Buddah Belly I have had for about 5 years now. Would you believe I got it at, of all places, IKEA! It was very small back then and has flourished. It has to be one of the easiest plants on the planet to take care of. The Plumies are pretty "unstable" and top heavy. I have to weight down the pots with very heavy rocks! LOL! Would love to see your singapore! Mine is about 12" or so tall and has put on quite a bit of new foliage since I got it several months ago. I just wish I knew which color it was. Singapores from what I have read up on them do fantastic in a very sunny south facing window, and do not lose their leaves during winter. It seems to put out lots of new leaves, but is fairly slow on the actual amount of height it adds, which is just fine by me! We are looking to go to the Tampa / St. Petersburg area. In specifically, St. Petersburg or somewhere in Pinellas co. It is going to be at least a year, maybe two before we do go though. Were still considering places. Wherever we do go though, it is going to be at least a zone 8B or higher. Preferably a zone 10. Jim, thank you! That P. Roebelenii is my pride and joy. I LOVE that thing! One day my litter lone will get that large too. I just love the look of them, and I love how they really are "miniature trees". Brooklynberg, I think you can do anything in pots if you treat it right! P. Roebelenii's can get large even in somewhat smaller containers, as can Sago Palms. If I actually owned this property, you bet I would have cold hardy palms put in!!! I already have a S. Minor in ground, and that Windmill in a pot outdoors all winter. I have been successful in getting Windmills to do just fine in pots here, with protection and some heating of the pot. We are a warm 7b/ cold 8a here. We are in the middle of the urban heat island of Washington D.C., and we are very close to the tidal Potomac River, which also moderates our temps even on the coldest nights most of the time. Thank you protempsfish! I love the Blue Hawaii! The petioles and leaf margins and veins are a striking dark purple. I plan on getting more Colocasia next spring for sure! Thanks everyone!!!

Yes, we all need more trees. I saw something in the news that SL County wants to see 1 million trees planted in the next 10 years. I don't know how they plan to promote that, but it's a great goal. Anyway, I think that's funny how you planted in the neighbor's yard. Reminds me of guerrilla gardening (http://www.guerrillagardening.org) where people sneak out at night and plant nice things to beautify neglected spaces. Anyway, you DEFINITELY should be gardening, Sharla! Don't be daunted just because it can be complicated. It's not always complicated, and you'll learn some things along the way as you do it. It's so rewarding to grow stuff and see your accomplishments as they make your yard a nicer place. As for the red maple, just watch it and see. It may be fine, but if the leaves get pale or yellow, it is getting iron chlorosis from our alkaline soil. It's not that we don't have enough iron, but it can't be used very well by some plants when they're in alkaline soils. These are usually trees or shrubs that came from back East or some other climate that has rich, acid, forest soils. Anyway, if that happens, post back here, and we can help you deal with the sick tree.

In general, landscape design looks at the clients' needs and wishes for the property as a whole and the creates a design that then meets as many of those as possible in the most pleasing way. Other than the sheds and the veggie garden, how do you want to use the yard? To my mind, that needs to be answered before any real plans are made. Is privacy (fence) more important than the veggies? Does it need to be there year round, or is privacy only really important in the summer when you will be outside more? Do you want a large open space for games or running around in the center? How much shade is there over the course of the day along the chain link or in other spots of the yard such as along the deck? Do you want a "pretty" yard or a kid-friendly yard or is the growing of food more of a priority or are they all of equal priority? Where will you be most likely to walk or drive and so will need to be left open? Where is water available, and would you be able to add hose bibs in other spots as needed? Do you want afternoon shade for the deck or other areas, and would you be more likely to plant a tree, or add a structure such as an arbor or shade sail? What other wishes do you have for the yard? As others have said, the more sun, the more successful the veggie and fruit beds will be, so too close to the sheds and the nearby solid fence which will provide shade should be avoided. You also will want to change your grouping/way of thinking about the plants from culinary to cultivation. Melons, like all your veggies, are annual plants, while most other "fruits" you have listed are perennials. The annuals and perennials each should have a planting area so that when clearing out and replanting annuals each year you aren't disturbing the perennial plants. The strawberries will need renewing every few years while each of the the shrubs and vines, which are fairly permanent, have different maintenance needs, and so should be planted in separate areas. If you grow herbs, some are annuals and some perennials. Consider overall goals and how else you will use your yard to help determine the best spot for the veggie beds. For instance, if you want the center of the yard left open, then think about putting your food plants along the chain link instead of a fence since it looks like it gets good sun. Or is the solid fence important enough the you should stockpile your soil for now or make temporary beds and then when the fence has been added, create the beds and plant food crops? Could you use the berry bushes and kiwi vines for your privacy instead of a solid fence? They are deciduous, so wouldn't be great for winter privacy. You would need to leave room between the shrubs and the chain link for accessing the vines. Fruit plants don't need as close access as herbs or veggies since fruit tends to be picked in chunks, while veggies tend to get harvested for particular meals, so think about putting the veggies and herbs closer to the house where there is easy access from the kitchen. Would you want veggies as a border around the deck, or does that either not fit the plants' needs or your wishes? So create a list of uses and priorities for the yard as a whole (swimming pool? play structure? bocce court? badminton net? trash can storage? etc, etc), prioritize them, and then start thinking about placement. You have already made one big decision, the shed size and placement, and so before making others, I would stop, step back and look at the yard overall. Take some time over the next growing season to look at sun and shade patterns (if you map sun as it changes from the vernal equinox until the summer solstice, you will have a good grasp on how it will look but in reverse for the rest of the growing season) as well as wind before planting anything permanent if successful cultivation of food crops is a priority. Once you have a good handle on growing conditions and your overall goals for the yard, then you will have a better idea of where is the ideal placement for each of the various uses you have for your yard.